Fluids / Lube New to me Ford 550

[Claytonfarms]

Chrisofman, We have a bunch of different topics here, cold start and fluids.

For UTF you want something rated for Ford 134 fluid. Two of the NAPA fuild are for hydro systems like pumps and stuff, you do not want that if it says Ford 134 spec on the tractor fluid you should be ok. 5w40 diesel oil is good for the engine, it takes about 5 quarts and the same filter as a 1980s ford pickup with an inline 6 cyl, if I remember correctly an 8A or 1A filter.

The cold start works as follows:
There is a heater screwed into the intake manifold close to the inlet tube. It should have a wire to it and a fuel line to it. When you turn the key to the left, the heater is powered and gets hot. When you start it turning left, fuel is dripped onto the heater from the injector return line. This warms the air in the intake and lights the fuel dripping on the heater to help warm the intake and aid in cold starting and engine warm up. If you want to check it, see if there is power to the heater when you turn the key one click left. Wait a few minutes with the key turned left and the heater connected to see if it gets warm to the touch. If it does get warm, the heater should be working. Depending on temp you may want to let it sit a few minutes or longer to help cold starting, it is a trial and error thing. I would not let it sit for a 1/2 hour, mine usually starts after 2 minutes or so down to 15F. Once the engine starts and is running ok you should turn the key to the right run position to turn off the heater.

 

[Chrisofman]

Thanks Clay... I just changed the engine oil today with 15w 40. The filter which I found it called for is a PH16 (fram). The NAPA is 5 min from my house where as TSC is 30 min so I was hoping to get insight on one of those 4 I posted because thats what they have in stock.

On my cold start the ingnition switch must be held in the heat position and then turned a little further to the left to turn over the engine. I think it is working because today when I started her up I tried using the heater and she fired right up.... No smoke or nothing... I mean I have not put a tester on there to see if its getting power but like I said today started no problems.... I will see how she behaves tommorw for the storm.

 

[Soundguy]

1'st one may be fine.

2nd one is jack oil and will ruin a machine that needs UTF oil.

3rd one may be fine

4th one is more jack oil same as 2, different viscosity.

I bet you find 1 and 3 are a premium and a basic oil.

see if they both meet m2c134d spec. then decide...

Soundguy...

Out of these which would you use in your machine or which do you recommend for mine and why.... I really dont understand the difference between them.

Chris

NAPA AUTO PARTS

NAPA AUTO PARTS

NAPA AUTO PARTS

NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

[Chrisofman]

Soundguy.....
I was out plowing this morning for 15 hours.... Brakes sounded like I was changing gears in a stick shift with no clutch. Checked my transmission sump and fluid was low. So I added some if this... it is what was on hand....

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Now onto my newest problem... For the past week or so that I have had the machine I work on it little by little when I have time. I always start it up, warm it up and turn on the lights. Last night for some reason the 3 red lights and right flood light on the back of the cab were lit. Light switch off but yet they were stil lit. The flood light though looking like it was powered by a dead battery. If I turned on the lighting all the flood lights were dim. I narrowed it down to having to be a short in the old wiring. However after about 20-30 min of running in the dark with the heat on. I checked the lights and to my surprise all was fine. All the lights were working and I could see what I was doing again. Not 5 min later they went out again, back to being dim. So I just turned them off, however like I said the lights on the rear of the cab stay lit.AND IT ONLY GETS WORSE... after a short while I notice it getting colder in the cab. Sure enough blower moter it moving slowly cuz of lack of power. SO now I got a running machine but no light and no heat for the next 14 hours.... YES I kept plowing.. COLD and frozen windows but I have a baby on thay and I need the money..... Anyway here are my questions:


had anyone had this happen before?
Is this the old style ford stuff where there is a seperate voltage regulator?
Do I really need to spend $180 for a alternator for the "tractor" ? Has anyone modified and used a $45 autozone alternator? from like a 78 pick up?

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

that R&O fluid is NOT correct for that machine. it needs a UTF meeting M2C134D

incorrect oil can / will have many consequences.. especially on wet clutches and brakes.

as for the lights.. souinds like a switch issue.

in post 43 i specifically told you those jack oils were not UTF replacements.

 

[Chrisofman]

that R&O fluid is NOT correct for that machine. it needs a UTF meeting M2C134D

incorrect oil can / will have many consequences.. especially on wet clutches and brakes.

as for the lights.. souinds like a switch issue.

in post 43 i specifically told you those jack oils were not UTF replacements.

I know soundguy I know. The container said that it mixes with all types of fluids so I used it. I was in a bind and the brakes did quite down. You recommend a full fluid change at this point?

Would the switch drain my battery? Makes no sense to me. even with a bad switch why would I not get power from the alternator?

 

[Soundguy]

mixes with all types.. of other hyd fluids.

a bad switch causing lamps to come on COULD drain the battery.

cn't answer about your alt. don't have your schematic in front of me.

oil?

if it was more than a 10% dilution.. me? personally? i'd change it.

that's a spendy piece of equiment to wring hands over a couple pails of oil.

 

[Chrisofman]

I understand how the switch would drain the battery with the motor off. But I was running the machine and gradually lost all power. With that said though the switch is inoperable with the keyed ignition in the off position. In my opinion must be bad regulator or alternator.
When I get the machine home I will dump the tranny fluid and replace with this. NAPA AUTO PARTS
I think this will be good for me because I don’t use the machine on a daily basis.
Sucked freezing my butt of for 14 hours plowing snow…. LOL

 

[Soundguy]

easy enough to get the alt tested.

 

[Claytonfarms]

Chrisofman,

When your lights are working, how do the rear and side lights light up? Meaning do the rear and side work as turn signal and running lights at the same time or one running and the other turn signal? My side lights d

I ask because my lights and wiring are all messed up. Someone modified the harness and the side lights do not work at all, rear lights work but if I use the turn signal both rear lights light up and one blinks. Strange to me. Also it looks like there is a brake light switch?? Maybe two of them. My manual does not state a brake light so I do not know what these switches are for.

Does anyone know if this tractor should have brake lights?

For you charging issue check the green wire to the regulator, make sure it has good contact. When I got my tractor, the regulator post was very rusted, bad contact and would not charge. It seems that water from the hood drips on this wire.