Flux Core Welding Issues

[metalbender]

I guess I was meaning low power for the job at hand when I said sub par. I find now here on the acreage, welding projects call for more power than the stuff I was doing when in town. When in doubt, I go with stick. My Lincoln 210MP does great mig welding, but I really like the stick function for heavy metal. Not a pro but do also have a Miller Dynasty 200 DX, mainly for tig capabilities. Also for ***** and giggles, I bought one of those tiny dc inverters from HF when I was in Fresno some years ago. I would trust a weld done with that before a low powered squirt gun. Started out with a Miller 225 buzz box, did all manner of welds because as was said, work with what you have, make do and learn. Have enough hood time, made enough mistakes too.

 

[jaxs]

You already own a fine machine. All you need is to install a 220 outlet (preferiablly at least 30 amp but 20amp is miles ahead of 120 volt). Buy or make up a heavy extension cord.

 

[coxhaus]

You need 220v for 1/4 inch plate.

 

[WranglerX]

I have made scads of welds (repairs and fabrications) on 1/4" mild steel using 140A /110V MIG welders on a dedicated 30amp circuit...

I have tested and abused to the point of pretzeling some of the fabrications and have never had a weld fail or even crack...

Ditto...

Dale

 

[WranglerX]

IF you are having troubles with your MIG welds, it may not be the machine ....

How NOT TO Weld: Most Common MIG Welding Mistakes - YouTube

I find my Hobart Handler on 30 amp circuit (yes it draws 24 amps on highest setting) and 12 gauge extension cord (25 foot) will handle pretty much of anything I throw at it up to 1/4 or 5/16...

Biggest problem with MIG is most people don't prep area to weld very well.... MIG does not like dirty metals...

Dale

 

[WranglerX]

"Par"...What's par for you may not be the same for all...not everyone that welds/owns a welder does it professionally...but FWIW I've seen and know several amateurs that can make some pro welders look as bad or worse than some of the goofs on the Internet...!

When it comes to welding, knowledge is the key...knowing how to use the equipment available and its limitations....

Professional welders will generally have the best equipment so they may not always be able to do the best work with less than the best equipment...(experience with what one has to work with dictates quality)

Youtube for biggest percentage is poorest place to learn something..... I find that maybe 10% of all the videos on youtube, people actually know what they are doing....

Many people manage do scab something together once, shoot video, upload it and become instant expert............ NOT!

Dale

 

[/pine]

You need 220v for 1/4 inch plate.

NO you do NOT need 220V...it has been proven and documented countless times that the above statement is BS...pure and simple...!

 

[ovrszd]

I find that the leads are long enough to do my work, but my welding angles and the loop of the working cable can get tight bends. And that's when it seems like the flux core will break in the machine, right at the drive wheel.

This problem is caused by the wire lead bent too tightly. Can't feed the stiff flux core wire so it binds up. Either slips (drive wheels too loose) or wads the wire up at the drive wheels (drive wheels too tight). Both caused by the bend in the lead.

As to the breaker issue, that's something totally different and a building problem, not a welder problem.

 

[WranglerX]

I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction here. I've been doing a little welding on my snow plow, fixing cracks and reinforcing patches.

I use a 120V/240V Hobart Handler 210 on 120V single phase and flux core wire. Typically Hobart brand 0.030 flux core wire used. To weld 1/4" mild steel, I really need to plug the welder into any outlet directly, and still sometimes pop the breaker. This places the welder close to a wall in my garage and limits my mobility, which OK fine for now.

I find that the leads are long enough to do my work, but my welding angles and the loop of the working cable can get tight bends. And that's when it seems like the flux core will break in the machine, right at the drive wheel. If I tighten it it seems to break more, if I loosen it the wire just stops feeding and balls up. The sweet spot drive wheel adjustment is at ~3-4. I thought changing the tips made a difference, but it there is no consistency between worn or new tips. I tried a new feed cable too, with no difference.

Any thoughts? Long term I think I need to upgrade the garage outlet (which will be very easy) and get a stick machine to do the heavy work. Sheet metal should still be done with the the wire feed, so should I try solid wire and gas?

Easiest solution is to run 240V circuit into shop and continue to use the 210MVP, you really don't have to buy a additional stick machine...

Issue here is the 210 MPV is comparable to the HH 140 when used on 120 VAC (voltages 4-5-6-7) ... Also the amperage stated for 120 VOLT operation is for if you are using it at 90 amp.... TO get full 140 amps the stated draw of 20 amp is underrated.... So (120 volt) 20 amp breaker ain't going to cut it.... Also in manual it states (I think) you can use up to a 55Ft extension cords IF IT IS 12 GAUGE or larger (Page 16 of manual below) ... IF you can use extension cord you can get better angles (straighter) on gun lead and not have binding issues...

https://www.hobartwelders.com/files/owners-manuals/O260274E_HOB.pdf

KVA value taken from page 10 of above manual...

Dale

 

[MF RED in MT]

I have made scads of welds (repairs and fabrications) on 1/4" mild steel using 140A /110V MIG welders on a dedicated 30amp circuit...

I have tested and abused to the point of pretzeling some of the fabrications and have never had a weld fail or even crack...

+2

KC