Ford 1500/1700 injector pump

[1980 F1500]

Ask, and you shall receive. Glad to help a fellow owner. I have received a lot of assistance from this site (thanks again, JC). My pump has been trouble free and does have the drain and fill-level holes with bolts and copper washers. I have no idea as to what the numbers indicate, either. Best wishes with your repair.

Kenny

Thanks for posting the numbers on your fuel injection pump. Maybe this discussion will help someone else someday.

John[/QUOTE]

 

[cjfling]

Well Guys,

We're almost bamboozled by this thing but I'm sure there is a good explanation that I don't know. I know for a fact there was another guy with the same pump configuration for 1700. I'm searching for it to see what i can come with. By the way last week I did an oil change and for the heck of it I changed injector oil as well after 50 hrs. I also got my air bottle and with a nozzle pushed some compressed air in and got additional two more spoons of oil out of the pump. What I can tell there was hardly any resistance to air flow thinking bulb syringe and a small tube might do the trick by sucking up the oil rather than draining it. I will test my theory sometime.

JC,

I don't want to hijack this thread but I'm sure this thread is visited only by 1700 owners so I'll add a few picture that you might find it useful. The transmission and diffy have a cover plate. i was curious if I could see PTO coupler. while I was tending my garden I stopped by and got the wrenches out. I did not see the fork but I saw transmission output shaft and below it in the hyd oil felt the PTO shaft. I was pleasantly surprised to see condition of a 30 yr old tractor innards. It really shows quality of casting, metal quality, nice workmanship and great machining. The fact that the tractor never sat outside under the weather is important but just wondering if they manufacture them like that anymore.

JC,

Did you replace the gasket when you took that cover off?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,

Did you replace the gasket when you took that cover off?

Thanks,
Jason

No Jason. The gasket was rubber, I was gentle with taking the cover of but I did rip just 1/2" in corner. What I did there was to take a small piece of cereal card board, cut it to the shape of the corner, put a dab of Blue RTV gasket on both sides and put all together. If you end up destroying the gasket and can't find replacement, then I would cleans the gasket surfaces on cover and transmission well, I'd degrease and let it dry out. then put a bead RTV where the gasket is. I'd give it 5 minutes for it to partially dry and skin and put the cover on. I uniformly tighten the bolts and would not torque it too much. You can come back and re tighten it after a day or two.

JC,

 

[cjfling]

The cover I was talking about was the one closest to the seat and not the one with the shifters on it. My old gasket looks paper/card board and it all tore up. Was yours rubber there also? The replacement at a 3rd party is 20.11. I can't look at New Holland's website right now b\c it appears to be down.

Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Jason,

Look at the post # 92 , the first picture shows the gasket and it is not rubber gasket. Notice lower, left corner where I repaired. You might need to make your own gasket. RTV works just fine there.

JC.

 

[John85259]

I have an update on my fuel injection pump extravaganza. I received the used pump from the salvage yard and it looked okay. I cleaned it up, installed it, and checked the timing. My tractor manual is in the garage but I believe the injection of fuel stops at 21-23 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke. I had transferred the chisel mark from the original pump to the replacement pump as recommended by JC. It was pretty close right off the bat, at about 15 degrees BTDC. I rotated the gear a little bit and got the fuel flow to stop at 21 degrees BTDC and left it at that. I put everything back together and the engine started right up. No problems.

While I was working on the engine I also had the cylinder head off to look at the valves and seats. Much to my surprise they were in excellent condition and didn't require grinding. I lapped them and then cleaned everything up and put the head together. I installed it after I had the timing cover back on.

Here's a little info that might help someone in the future. When I was at the local New Holland dealer I ordered 4 valve stem seals. I assumed they'd be pretty cheap but in fact they were ridiculously expensive at $23 each! I decided to see if I could find a cheaper alternative. I measured the original valve stem seals and looked on the internet to see if I could find an automobile engine that used the same ones. I found a Cometic valve seal that looked like a possible match but it didn't say which engines it fits. I wanted to buy the seals from my local NAPA store so I could return them if they didn't fit, but I needed to know the application so they could look them up. I called Cometic and talked to someone in tech support and he couldn't tell me which engine it was for but said it was a VS-458 seal. Evidently, this is a generic number for this seal. I did some more searching on the internet and found that VS-458 seals are used on 1975-95 Toyota 22R and similar engines. The FelPro number for 8 seals with two plastic installation sleeves is SS70598. I called NAPA and they had a set sitting on their counter the same afternoon. Total price was about $18 with tax. This was much better than the 4X$23=$92 that the New Holland dealer was asking. They look exactly like the old seals and they fit perfectly.

I also replaced the front crankshaft seal and it was $29.87 from New Holland. It's a pretty simple double lip seal that would probably cost no more than $5 if it was used on a car, but I wasn't able to find one that matched in the time I had available. The number on the original seal is AH 23696. "HOK" is also on the seal about 180 degrees from where the seal number is located. I don't know if this the seal manufacturer. The New Holland part number is SBA198636040. I just did some more snooping on the internet and the seal might be the same as an SKF Part # 15835.

One last thing. One of the pushrods was bent and New Holland's price for a replacement was pretty expensive. I can't remember exactly how much but I'm thinking it was around $17 each. I straightened the pushrod and it works fine. The valve springs are pretty weak so the pushrod doesn't see much load. If I needed to get a new pushrod I'd have Smith Brothers Pushrods in Oregon make up a set. I've had them make pushrods for other engines and their service is very quick and their prices are quite reasonable.

I picked up the original fuel pump from the rebuilder and the pieces were in a large plastic bag. I looked at some of them and the camshaft lobes were pitted pretty badly as were the roller followers that ride on them. If anyone is interested I can take a few pictures of the housing and internal pieces and see if I can figure out how to post them.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me with this!

John

 

[JC-jetro]

s.




I picked up the original fuel pump from the rebuilder and the pieces were in a large plastic bag. I looked at some of them and the camshaft lobes were pitted pretty badly as were the roller followers that ride on them. If anyone is interested I can take a few pictures of the housing and internal pieces and see if I can figure out how to post them.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me with this!

John

Good detective work John. will keep for future information. I sure like to see the pics of the injector pump innards. So this die you to fire the rig up?

JC,

 

[John85259]

I'll take some pictures of the fuel injection pump components in the next day or two. One thing I forgot to mention that might be of interest is that installing the timing cover with the crankshaft seal installed can be a little awkward. The engine had been rebuilt some time in the past and the inner lip on the old seal had been folded over during installation of the cover. The seal always leaked a bit. When I put the cover back on I applied some oil to the crank snout so the seal would slide over it more easily, and I carefully lined the seal up on the crankshaft as I moved the timing cover towards the engine block. It's not easy to do because the timing cover is somewhat heavy and awkward to handle. After the seal was properly aligned I moved the cover towards the block and lined it up with the two alignment pins, being careful not to deform the seal by allowing the cover to rest on the crankshaft snout. I used the tractor the following day and the seal doesn't leak.

This isn't the smoothest running engine I've ever seen, but with only 2 cylinders I suppose that's to be expected. It's like an air compressor on steroids. Still, the tractor works fine and starts up all the time. It definitely runs better than it ever has, so I'm reasonably happy with it. I only use it a couple times a year so I have a hard time justifying something more expensive. Maybe someday I'll get a newer tractor with 4 cylinders and hydrostatic drive.

John

 

[John85259]

As promised, here are a few pictures of the original fuel injection pump that came from my 1979 Ford 1500 tractor. The pump was disassembled by a local fuel injection pump rebuilder and returned to me in this condition. I'm not sure where all the parts go, although some of them are fairly obvious.



John

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks John for the pictures. It is exactly how I envisioned it looking at the only diagram I found on the injector. I think repair or overhaul is doable if the need ever arises. You are right that it the engine is not so smooth running but I have been always amazed of how much power I can get to the wheels or PTO and 3 point with this engine. I have seen several of them with 3000+ hrs on them, so I think with a bit of TLC it will keep running for a long time.

JC,