ford 1700

[knucklehead]

Great! Everyone around me has Orange tractors, friend and family alike. In looking at the dealer who handled both NH & Kubota, I found the older Ford series to be much greater value. You got a good deal on that 1920 - I looked at one with a bucket that was tired for $11k. As I've been over to the local NH dealer for parts, I've had a chance to eyeball the new Boomers - pretty nice. Wonder how they compare to the Kubotas.......

Thanks for getting pics ahead of time - and what are you going to do with the 1700?

John - are you talking inch pounds? Seems a little low if you are - 1200 in-lb would be 100 ft-lb. Or is it Newton-meters? /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

 

[JohnMiller3]

Re: ford 1700 & Mini Quiz...?

<font color=blue>…on mine I always had them about 500-600 ft.lbs…</font color=blue>

Foot…ft… as in Boot… /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

or if you prefer …~~680-820 newton meters…/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

On my current Brown rotary cutter, the blade bolts are torqued to about 800-900 ft. lbs.

...and on the Brown tree cutters… the blade bolts are 1400-1600 ft. lbs… and the stump jumper or blade bar is torqued to 3800 ft. lbs… /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

Let me ask you guys a question... How much torque can the PTO splined steel shaft handle? (not the rest of the PTO components... just the steel shaft)

Answer tomorrow... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Ok, here are the start of the pictures. This one is the left side of the 1920... still on the trailer from bushhogging the neighbors pasture. I hadn't washed if off before I took the pictures. Also, the top riser on the smoke stack is not oem. It came with the usual straight pipe with an angle to the side. I added the slightly taller pipe with a flapper cap. It keeps the fumes outta the face better... though... I must admit, I'm quite fond of deisel fumes.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

( I will probably not buy the 1700, as the 'dealer' seems odd.. I can't put my finger on it.. but there is something just... odd about the guy .. though the tractor does look nice. )

 

[Soundguy]

rear of the 1920, minus the mower, as I left it at the neighbors.

 

[Soundguy]

right side

 

[Soundguy]

And one of my favorite parts, the fender mounted radio. I should have taken a lower angle, and got the cup holder in there too. This picture isn't as clear, but should be ok.

 

[knucklehead]

Re: ford 1700 & Mini Quiz...?

Depends on shaft size, and on whether you're talking about spline failure or the actual yield point of a shaft of the size that we're talking about - if you mean the point at which the whole shaft would fail - tons. If you mean the safe working limit - much less. I don't have time to drag out references and re-learn how to calculate yield point from torsional loading, although you are getting me interested in it, again.

I believe the torque specs for bolts are based on a specific bolt material, desired clamping force, the resulting tension in psi, and allowable deformation or bolt stretch - which is why the specs for stronger (grade 8) bolts are higher. I always understood that the idea was to apply a certain clamping force - the only way we can reasonably measure that outside a lab is to measure the stretch in the bolt, or derive specs/tables to relate it to the nut torque. Not knowing what size bolts I have on the cutter, but assuming they are in the area of 1", I would guess the torque would be in the hundreds of lb-ft, as my experience with cylinder head bolts and wheel lugs (1/2" bolts plus or minus a 1/16" here and there) is in the 75 - 90 lb-ft range.

I was just Bill Nye-in' around with the Newtons - I think we should throw all the metric bolts in Boston Harbor. Sure, it's easier to calc in base ten, but I like our old way of doing things. Heck, I like cubits, rods, and furlongs. My longtime favorite unit of measure is Furlongs per Fortnight, first spoken by an instructor as a joke. If speedometers were marked that way, 60 MPH would be 161,280 FPF /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif.

 

[knucklehead]

Nice pictures, Chris! That's one rugged tractor. My stack is a bit low - I think I'll extend it, too.

I always figured you had to use headphones with a radio on the tractor. I could have used one while I was cutting grass the other day. And a sun shade.

What kind of camera do you have? This thread is going all over the place, as usual. I borrow the Kodak from work when I need it. I like it, but it's $4-500.

 

[Soundguy]

<font color=blue>Nice pictures, Chris! That's one rugged tractor. My stack is a bit low - I think I'll extend it, too.

<font color=black>Thanks, they could have been better, but I used a lower res to save upload size, and I was tired from bushhogging so I didn't get the best angles. Both the smoke stack on my yanmar and the 1920 were too low for me, so I went to autozone, and bought the appropriate muffler tube size, used a chop saw to cut the bottom of the stack to have 4 'leafs', then a muffler clamp to hold it on. The flapper I got at TSC. Just a tad bit of rattle when it runs.. but not bad.. keeps the rain out too.

<font color=blue>I always figured you had to use headphones with a radio on the tractor. I could have used one while I was cutting grass the other day. And a sun shade.

The sun shade is great.. blocks a bit of rain as well. The radio will either play through an internally mounted weatherproof speaker, or via headphones... funny thing is, is the internal speaker is mono-mixed, and the headphone is true stereo.. more than i would have expected.

[blue[What kind of camera do you have? This thread is going all over the place, as usual. I borrow the Kodak from work when I need it. I like it, but it's $4-500.

<font color=black>It is a polaroid pdc 640. I still think they sell it or a similar model. When we bought it, it was 299.00 and had a 2mb smartmedia card with it ( smartmedia are the thin real thin ones ). 2mb holds about 15 pictures in hi res. The extra 8mb card we bought cost 64 bucks ( this was all in 1999 ). Nowadays, the camera is probably less than a hundred bucks, and smartmedia is really cheap.
Good camera. A suggestion, if you get one, either smartmedia or compact flash, do yourself a favor and buy a seperate usb based reader for the media, unless the camera has a built in usb interface. Most cameras I've seen make you hook them up to the serial or printer port of the computer, and only a few are usb capable... takes forever to download the pics, and their software is sometimes slow. I bought a usb reader that accepts the smartmedia, and makes it like a drive on your desktop.. just drop and drag the pics in jpg format over to your cpu.. the readers are cheap too.. like 25 bucks.. end even places like eckards carries them in the camera dept.

Soundguy

 

[knucklehead]

Hey Chris

Been plating around outside for a couple days. The Kodak at work has a usb cable - once I got the software loaded (which it basically did itself), we just plugged the camera into AC power, plugged the usb cable into the front of the PC, turned the camera on, and it did everything else. I think the camera is a model 4000 or 4400 or something. It's so "plug n' play", that all I had to do was read the manual to make sure I could decipher the markings on the camera controls. I'm still learning about resolution and so forth, mostly by reading the help text on the Adobe program included in this PC. It seems there is a difference between what Adobe tells me the file size is, and the saved JPEG file (saved file smaller, thank God). I've been stumped by not being able to get the file size under 150k, only to find out the saved image was well under. So far, I'm happy to be a user only, and get by.

Do you have a manual that shows blade bolt torque, Chris? Been waiting for John to get back to us on bolt torque, too - HEY JOHN! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif Since I don't have a manual, it'd be nice to know.

See Ya