Ford 1720 cranks won’t start

[loggin]

Removed fuel shutoff solenoid, reconnectEd positive wire and grounded the body. When I turned start key the plunger worked ok. Re-installEd solenoid and connected wire. Cracked nuts to bleed lines at injectors. Turned start key, some fuel came out. What caught my eye is the connection tab on the solenoid was hot and smoking….fuse didn’t blow??
Maybe the plunger is hanging up when installed? I will pick up a new solenoid tomorrow and see what happens.

Did you manage to get the new solenoid?

 

[neil04530]

Picked one up today from dealer $164 ouch. Found some unbranded solenoids online tonight for $63. Also a new relay $29. Will try the relay first. If relay doesn’t fix i, will order a cheaper solenoid.

 

[loggin]

Picked one up today from dealer $164 ouch. Found some unbranded solenoids online tonight for $63. Also a new relay $29. Will try the relay first. If relay doesn’t fix i, will order a cheaper solenoid.

I would also trace and inspect the wires and make sure there are no issues with them.

 

[NormaG]

Hi all, up until now no issues with starting. Cranks over with no smoke. Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
-neutral switch, PTO is disengaged. Is there another safety? (It has no switch on seat)

-changed fuel filter, bled line

-glow plug light comes on. Then when I turn key it cranks. Checked fuse block on firewall that has 3 fuses and found the middle 10 amp panel fuse blown. Replaced fuse, same result. Started tracing wires. Looks like middle fuse wire goes to fuel shutoff solenoid. Pulled solenoid and it functions OK. Tracing the same wire further back, found a spliced wire that goes to alternator.

what else can I check?
Thanks

check the wire harness and make sure it's in good mechanical order. If everything checks out, then I'd suspect the relay to be bad. If that is the case, you'll need to take it out and test it. Open up the dash and you'll see a small box on the right of the steering column. This is the ignition switch position/solenoid circuit. Locate the small black rectangular box and then pull the relay out. Connect the car's battery to it and then test for its functionality. If it's good then you'll need to replace the ignition switch. Hope this helps!

 

[neverfailyou]

Ok, will check oil situation and injectors for flow. Thanks

My 1720 has a bleeder nut /screw at the junction of the single fuel line from the pump to the three-line manifold feeding the injectors. I use that bleeder to purge the air first before trying each individual injector line. Of the engine will start using the bleeder, it will spit and sputter until all three injectors are purged.

 

[neil04530]

All, thanks for the suggestions for fixing my tractor. Seems the fuel shutoff solenoid was bad. I compared it to the new one I bought, noticed it made a “squishy“ sound. I suspect oil inside was shorting and intermittently blowing the 10A fuse on the firewall.

 

[loggin]

All, thanks for the suggestions for fixing my tractor. Seems the fuel shutoff solenoid was bad. I compared it to the new one I bought, noticed it made a “squishy“ sound. I suspect oil inside was shorting and intermittently blowing the 10A fuse on the firewall.

Glad you got it all sorted and thanks for letting us know what the issue was!!

 

[neil04530]

Meant to say fuel was inside the solenoid. Here’s the old one and it’s replacement.