ford 1920 clutch problem

[billfires]

Soundguy, you are so right about it having a tendency to do it again. Yesterday I had to break the clutch free for the 3rd time in 7 years. (My son used the tractor last and didn't know about blocking the clutch.) Usually I only have to put it in low range and go into the gravel bank to break it free, but this time I had to use 4wd and go against a tree to break it loose. I am putting a small dash plaque as a reminder to block the clutch. Bill C

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. like I said.. i've got 2 tractors that will stick then if I don't block them.. guaranteed.

soundguy

 

[Opti-Mist]

I've also found that once one sticks once.. it will 'like' to stick more often.

soundguy

You're quite right about that. The friction material can contribute also, particularly if it has the ability to absorb any moisture. Over the years we've seen a variety of friction materials including everything from cerrometallic to walnut shells. The higher moisture areas are more prone but no one seems to be immune.

 

[Tombstone]

I also have a 1920 and although I have not had the clutch stick like you describe above, I sometime have problems getting it into gear. This is while I'm working, moving from 2 or 3 into reverse and back again. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be aggravating. I've adusted the clutch pedal to specs, but does not help. Could this be related to the lock up problem, because I've never used the block? Any ideas?
Thanks.

 

[JC-jetro]

I also have a 1920 and although I have not had the clutch stick like you describe above, I sometime have problems getting it into gear. This is while I'm working, moving from 2 or 3 into reverse and back again. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be aggravating. I've adusted the clutch pedal to specs, but does not help. Could this be related to the lock up problem, because I've never used the block? Any ideas?
Thanks.

Clutch disk sticking should follow after some storage period. I wondered why it should do it while operating specially the fact you have adjusted the pedal free play specs and it happens randomly. Does it happen at certain rpm?

JC,

 

[Tombstone]

No, no certain rpm or even rpm range. It does it at idle or any rpm. It acts as though the clutch is not completely disengaged. If it won't go into 2nd from reverse, I can go to 3rd, release the clutch and then go to 2nd. I am wondering if the clutch is not completely disengaging and if I ignored the specs and adjusted the pedal accordingly. Would this cause more problems?
Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

I'd try double clutching.. though the fact that you can select another range seems normal, then you can slip her into the correct gear.. etc. I've got plenty of tractors with crash boxes that you can double clutch to get a gear if it won't take it straight over.. or select another gear first to perhaps get something aligned.. then select your gear... I don't see that as a big issue..

soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

No, no certain rpm or even rpm range. It does it at idle or any rpm. It acts as though the clutch is not completely disengaged. If it won't go into 2nd from reverse, I can go to 3rd, release the clutch and then go to 2nd. I am wondering if the clutch is not completely disengaging and if I ignored the specs and adjusted the pedal accordingly. Would this cause more problems?
Thanks.

clutch pedal free play adjustment externally is translated internally to distance between the release bearing surface and the pressure plate fingers. They should be close but not touching. If the distance is too much, you press the pedal all the way and you release the disk partially and that is not good. Maybe this is your problem. That causes erratic gear engagement and disk wear. On the flip side if the release bearing is too close to the fingers , then your are able to completely disengage the disk but you run a chance of riding the clutch and premature wear of pressure plate fingers, release bearing or both. Double clutching to find the sweet spot works but I think correct adjustment is a better alternative in the long run.

JC,

 

[Soundguy]

I've seens plenty of machines that were just finicky.. adjusted correctly.. but liked that double clutch.. or another gear to get them synchronized. etc.. then again.. I'm used to them old crashbox ford trans that farmers use for 50 years and when you buy it and drain it, 3 quarts water comes out.. a dead rat.. some metal chips. and alil oil floating n top.. .. then you dump some diesel thru, let it drain.. refill with oil, and go another couple decades!

soundguy

 

[ccsial]

I also have a 1920 and although I have not had the clutch stick like you describe above, I sometime have problems getting it into gear. This is while I'm working, moving from 2 or 3 into reverse and back again. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be aggravating. I've adusted the clutch pedal to specs, but does not help. Could this be related to the lock up problem, because I've never used the block? Any ideas?
Thanks.

My 1910 has no problem shifting from gear to another or to reverse, but If you put it in neutral and then back to a gear it acts as though the clutch was not disengaging. I usually idle way down and then shift to 1st and then to the gear I want to use. It goes to 1st with the least grinding. It's been this way since new. I think finicky is the right word.

It sits up to three weeks without clutch blocking in a building. In the winter when it sits longer I block the clutch and put a float charger on it. This has been one terrific tractor.