Notforhire
Veteran Member
On my list of the stupid things I have done, selling my 1920 is right up there.
Bill
Bill
Ford 1920 Questions
- Thread starter jrdepew
- Start date
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
almost on mine too.
i needed the trade ion ca$h at the time though.. to get my 7610s.. or i'd still have her...
i needed the trade ion ca$h at the time though.. to get my 7610s.. or i'd still have her...
moojamboo
Bronze Member
I have a 1710 without foldable rops and it just barely would not fit through my garage door. I took off the top brace, cut about 3 inches from each side and but the top brace back on. As I am 5 foot 8ish this was still enough protection for my height. Tie a rope from top of rops to hood and see if you have clearance?
Not ideal but I get a protected investment and 95+ percent of safety.
Not ideal but I get a protected investment and 95+ percent of safety.
the old grind
Super Member
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- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
I don't know which was more confusing, correcting brightness or puttin' these in a PM. No specs for 1920 w/4wd. (??) This is from NH's 7108 manual (without permission)
Thanks The Old Grind! That is good information.
I went and looked at/drove the tractor this morning. It started right up easily after letting the glow plugs heat up for a few seconds. Ran like a top and idled down nicely. I drove it around, changing ranges and gears, forward and reverse. The clutch took a little getting used to but I was going pretty smooth after a few tries. The tractor overall is in nice shape, but there is some surface rust on most surfaces of the loader arms. The tires have some good life left and will last many years in my use I am sure.
The only issue I found was the 2wd/4wd lever...If you pulled the lever up to engage it engages, but then will fall back down on its own. The owner has a bungee cord to hold it up when he uses it currently, but I think this is something I would like to fix. Any information in the manual about an adjustment here? Both 2wd and 4wd work, but the linkage seems to be off for some reason.
The owner is the original owner, and is selling because he found a good deal on a 2120 and already has a bunch of tractors.
Thanks,
Joe
I went and looked at/drove the tractor this morning. It started right up easily after letting the glow plugs heat up for a few seconds. Ran like a top and idled down nicely. I drove it around, changing ranges and gears, forward and reverse. The clutch took a little getting used to but I was going pretty smooth after a few tries. The tractor overall is in nice shape, but there is some surface rust on most surfaces of the loader arms. The tires have some good life left and will last many years in my use I am sure.
The only issue I found was the 2wd/4wd lever...If you pulled the lever up to engage it engages, but then will fall back down on its own. The owner has a bungee cord to hold it up when he uses it currently, but I think this is something I would like to fix. Any information in the manual about an adjustment here? Both 2wd and 4wd work, but the linkage seems to be off for some reason.
The owner is the original owner, and is selling because he found a good deal on a 2120 and already has a bunch of tractors.
Thanks,
Joe
So there are three things on my mind about this tractor right now...The 4wd lever and what it would take to fix, the R1 tires on my lawn, and what kind of offer I would make, as the owner says there is a standing offer but it is lower than he wants to take...but he said the price is definitely negotiable.
I am very handy when it comes to turning wrenches and all that as I grew up working on cars and nobody touches any of my cars/mowers/etc except me, but I am new to tractors and don't know how big of an issue the 4wd lever really is...
Joe
I am very handy when it comes to turning wrenches and all that as I grew up working on cars and nobody touches any of my cars/mowers/etc except me, but I am new to tractors and don't know how big of an issue the 4wd lever really is...
Joe
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
gosh.. it's been over a decade since i had my 1920. I can't even remember how the 4wd engaged.. 
Iknow it was positive engagement though..
i no longer have my manua;s for it.. they went when i traded it. check for a detent on the shaft in the parts manual.
user: rickb will likely know right off the bat.
Iknow it was positive engagement though..i no longer have my manua;s for it.. they went when i traded it. check for a detent on the shaft in the parts manual.
user: rickb will likely know right off the bat.
the old grind
Super Member
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- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
Not to be funny, but R1s would be hard on the lawn you mow with the tractor. It's tight turns that gouge, & that's most of it. IMO this guy's a tad big for that, but we haven't seen your place either.
Neither the I&T manual or my dodging hailstones out to the barn to crawl under new iron gives me much insight to how the 4wd selector connects to the engagement fork inside. It may be as simple as a detent failure. Never saw the likes, & 'low-ball' guy may know something about it (or tendency) that we don't yet. He also might offer <$1K so you'd have to feel-out the seller/situation about a point in-between.
btw: I&T book says 'live' PTO is std on 12x12 shuttle-equipped 1720 & 1920. At least that's reassuring.
Neither the I&T manual or my dodging hailstones out to the barn to crawl under new iron gives me much insight to how the 4wd selector connects to the engagement fork inside. It may be as simple as a detent failure. Never saw the likes, & 'low-ball' guy may know something about it (or tendency) that we don't yet. He also might offer <$1K so you'd have to feel-out the seller/situation about a point in-between.
btw: I&T book says 'live' PTO is std on 12x12 shuttle-equipped 1720 & 1920. At least that's reassuring.
I did plan on borrowing a neighbors and eventually buying a mower for the back to make a couple passes in the straighter section of the yard, as well as do my small "field" section (<1 acre) occasionally. That amount of mowing takes a very long time on an LT180....But for right now it's not that big of a deal. So...maybe this tractor is a bit big, but I do like the lift capacity. A lot of guys on here are always saying how there isn't such a thing as "too big" too though :drink:
Soundguy....I will send rickb a pm and ask him, thanks for the information.
Soundguy....I will send rickb a pm and ask him, thanks for the information.
RickB
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- Just a Scag
So as to share with all, here's the dope on the 4WD engagement.
The housing bolted to the rear axle center section where the 4WD shift shaft enters the housing also contains the spring, ball & detent. Somewhere along the line the lever was forced to overtravel and the detent ball & spring were allowed to drop into the housing. now there is nothing to hold the 4WD shift collar in place, and gravity pulls the rod & handle down. The fix should be easy; remove the cover and replace the damaged parts (after draining at least a couple gallons of hydraulic oil). The spring & ball are likely sitting at the bottom of the rear end housing, or at the bottom of the 4WD drop box. There is a plate that was designed after the fact to bolt on with the shift cover on the outside to limit lever travel, one should bepart of the repair parts needed list. I wouldn't expect major disassembly or or expense to accomplish the repair, but then again I can't see it from here.
The housing bolted to the rear axle center section where the 4WD shift shaft enters the housing also contains the spring, ball & detent. Somewhere along the line the lever was forced to overtravel and the detent ball & spring were allowed to drop into the housing. now there is nothing to hold the 4WD shift collar in place, and gravity pulls the rod & handle down. The fix should be easy; remove the cover and replace the damaged parts (after draining at least a couple gallons of hydraulic oil). The spring & ball are likely sitting at the bottom of the rear end housing, or at the bottom of the 4WD drop box. There is a plate that was designed after the fact to bolt on with the shift cover on the outside to limit lever travel, one should bepart of the repair parts needed list. I wouldn't expect major disassembly or or expense to accomplish the repair, but then again I can't see it from here.