FORD 2N OR 8N TRACTOR ID???

[PLUMMER]

Awesome, great info. Well I have been searching thru the manuals and books for the 8N and am trying to decide which one to get first. Even tho this is my father-in-laws tractor, I don't mind spending a bit but I can see for what I want to do it can get expensive quick. I have the F 04 but I need more. It is alot of fun and way easier to wrench on that what I usually do. I printed off a copy of the 50 tips for 8N's and that seems pretty handy.

Was looking at some 2 and 1 bottom plows to get, but want to find exactly what was design for this tractor. Some of the 2 bottoms looked like a lot for the tractor. i think I have to stick with a 10" or so. I want to add a temp guage as when I was working the tractor last weekend it "seemed to get hot" . I assume normal/safe operating temps to be 185-195 ? One article mentioned a 180 t-stat as hotter is better on the oil and keeps it from sludging up. Trying to find other ways of magnetizing my dipsticks since I don't have a loop style soldering gun.

 

[Soundguy]

that tractor is designed for a 2-14 plow or smaller.. or a 1-16

there is no provision for a temp senter.. unless you get a replacement head with a flat bss for one and then drill and tap it.. or make a flat spot and drill and tap yours...

N's have OVERSIZED cooling systems..

define 'seemed to get hot'

did you overfill the radiator and it spit some out? you don't fill the top tank.. only fill to over the core.

dirty fins in the rad will prevent it from dropping heat... so will a bad water pump or loose belt.

soundguy

 

[wolc123]

I would recommend a 12" - 2 bottom Dearborn plow. That is the plow that was delivered with them tractors back when they came off the assembly line and should be easy to find on Craigslist, etc, because few if any others were produced in larger numbers. You can still buy the plow points relatively cheap at TSC. I use one on my 51 and it will easily do an acre an hour in second gear with average soil conditions. The only thing that gets hot while plowing is my right foot, as the exhaust runs under the floorboard on that side. It is kind of nice actually in the early spring mornings when it is real cold out, but it dont do nothing for your left foot, and it aint cool when you are plowing on hot days. As SG mentioned, the N's did have an oversized cooling system and if the engine is running hot, you got a problem somewhere.

 

[PLUMMER]

Well when I parked the tractor after a bit of plowing, it started to bubble over. And yes I did over fill it. When I seen the top of the core first time we started it this year , I "figured" it was low???? I Have since read the proper way to fill and thanks for repeating/confirming it. I did notice it wasn't blowing violent steam off, but rather just a little blurble. I could still grab and squeeze the rad hose without burning myself. My Fluke 179 DMMeter read 187 degrees on the hose at the t-stat. Thus why I couldn't figure why it was relieving , via assuming it "seemed" like it must have been hot. Since with a 4lb radiator spring water or glycol shouldn't boil till 219-221 degrees. It has never relieved in the past under normal use. We had a friend on a neighboring property borrow the tractor last year and he got it burried bad, along with 2 other tractors trying to get this one out. Since then a few things haven't been the same. But after fluid top offs its much better except the learning excursion with the anti-freeze. Thanks again.
I will do more searching for 2-12 dearborn, as I only need to go 6" max for most of my food plots. Also it should help if I plow before I attempt the rotovator. We are gonna use turnip pan busters to break up the hard pan in a couple areas.

 

[Soundguy]

do you have the 4 psi system or the old larg tank one that is non pressurized... in any case.. over the core and good to go..

soundguy

 

[PLUMMER]

Well its an original rad cap with the chrome wing " I believe". I read somewhere , the system was a 4-psi. Might have been a parts supplier comment. From what I can tell the entire tractor is still oem. However I've been wrong about everything else so far. There is a VERY light spring in the cap.......so i dunno

 

[Soundguy]

it's easy to tell.. the 4 psi cap is modern... has ears on the outside.. just like a regular car rad cap.. etc.... the older non press system has ears on the inside of the neck.

no way to get them confused.