Ford 3000 axle leak

[Soundguy]

i would agree.. tearing it down a 2nd time to do another set of seals? and in which case I'd do the other seals AGAIN.. who wants to put an assembly back together with old seals?

 

[jshwhite]

the only hard part is if the bearing and outer seal is held on with a collar instead of a nut i can be hard to get the collar off and you will need to replace the collar also

OK, good to know. Thanks

 

[jshwhite]

So, finally tearing into the tractor today and I've got a question about the axle lock nuts. The owner of the tractor agreed to do all the seals, so I've got to take the axle lock nut off to get at the outer seal.
Firstly, I can't get them off without a special tool it seems. I'm going to check with a tractor repair shop down the road from me and see if I can borrow a tool
Secondly, what is the proper procedure for putting them back on? I'm thinking that probably there is a certain torque and then you back them off a certain amount. Anyone done this before that can shed some light on the subject?

Thanks

 

[jshwhite]

I know it's been a while and I hate those people that resurrect old threads , but just thought I would post how the job went - for the benefit of those who might do a search and come up with this thread.

Everything went well. The tires were filled, so I used a hoist to remove them. Once they were off I removed the "ring" of bolts and slid the axle right out. Getting to the inner seal was no problem.

However, getting to the outer seal required removing the axle lock nut. They were torqued to almost 250ft/lbs. I tried every tool I could think of, but it just couldn't be done without the special tool from Ford - it's like a very long socket that fits over the axle. I talked to the dealer about borrowing theirs, but it required a 3/4" drive impactor and all I have is 1/2". So, I broke down and took both axles/hubs in to the dealer - they charged 2 hrs labor @ $68.50/hr. to change the outer seals and repack the bearings. I wasn't all that happy, but I guess it wasn't that bad.

After that it was just a matter of sliding the axles back in and bolting things back together. Also did fluid changes, and other misc maintenance, but overall everything went smoothly.

Thanks again TBN for the great help!

 

[whodat526]

I know it's been a while and I hate those people that resurrect old threads , but just thought I would post how the job went - for the benefit of those who might do a search and come up with this thread.

Everything went well. The tires were filled, so I used a hoist to remove them. Once they were off I removed the "ring" of bolts and slid the axle right out. Getting to the inner seal was no problem.

However, getting to the outer seal required removing the axle lock nut. They were torqued to almost 250ft/lbs. I tried every tool I could think of, but it just couldn't be done without the special tool from Ford - it's like a very long socket that fits over the axle. I talked to the dealer about borrowing theirs, but it required a 3/4" drive impactor and all I have is 1/2". So, I broke down and took both axles/hubs in to the dealer - they charged 2 hrs labor @ $68.50/hr. to change the outer seals and repack the bearings. I wasn't all that happy, but I guess it wasn't that bad.

After that it was just a matter of sliding the axles back in and bolting things back together. Also did fluid changes, and other misc maintenance, but overall everything went smoothly.

Thanks again TBN for the great help!

good to know all went well

but for the axle nut i bought a shocket from a big truck parts store that the use in trucks it tighten the yoke on to the pinion shaft and cut the center out of it and welded a piece of pipe to it and when puting it back together just got a beg cheater pipe it has worked so far with no trouble i have done quite a few

 

[Soundguy]

i love zombie threads! good to hear back!

 

[jshwhite]

good to know all went well

but for the axle nut i bought a shocket from a big truck parts store that the use in trucks it tighten the yoke on to the pinion shaft and cut the center out of it and welded a piece of pipe to it and when puting it back together just got a beg cheater pipe it has worked so far with no trouble i have done quite a few

That's a good idea. I wish I had known - I would have done that. Oh well, next time.

 

[jshwhite]

i love zombie threads! good to hear back!

Thanks soundguy. I really like how helpful and friendly this site is (generally speaking, of course.) At only 23 yrs old, I'm still young and inexperienced, but I can always count on getting some good help here from those wiser than me Seems you can always find someone here who has done it before!

Thanks again

 

[Soundguy]

That's a good idea. I wish I had known - I would have done that. Oh well, next time.

yep.. them spanner sockets are good like that. many of us weld them up like that. just plain smart as whodat points out.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks soundguy. I really like how helpful and friendly this site is (generally speaking, of course.) At only 23 yrs old, I'm still young and inexperienced, but I can always count on getting some good help here from those wiser than me Seems you can always find someone here who has done it before!

Thanks again

yep.. not much new under the sun.. especially on 40+ year old machines!