ford jubilee..changed hydraulic fluid and now nothing works!!

[Soundguy]

that fitting in the hyds fill cap is a RETURN from some other hyds function.. when you opent he cap you will lkely find NOTHING under it. it's a way to return fluid there

and yes.. the person wo told you it was common sump was DEAD wrong.

the 39 to 52 N series was common sump.

the 53-64 hundredand early thou series were 3 sump.

the 65+ machines had a trans sump, and hyds and diffy were common.

pick more informed people to get advice from..

I'm back again

"soundguy" talks of a third "fill" under the left of the seat....for the all important hydraulics....this did not sound familiar. I just went and looked...Oh boy!!

Now I do recognize it as a fill plug, just like the other two....except... it has a pipe plug elbow dead centre that connects to copper pipe that runs to the front hydraulic lifts. It is very "Rube Goldberg"ish. So...it appears the only way to remove this plug is to first disconnect the piping and what will it be connected to inside?? Is there no other way to get the fluid to the hydraulics. Another Ford tractor person just down the road also thought these tractors have a common "link" (hole??) between the reservoirs to keeep the levels the same. He is wrong??

Like I said...I appreciate any input.

Boyd

 

[boydj]

Thanks soundguy...you haven't addressed all my problems...but you certainly have pointed me in the right direction. Silly me, of course that would be a return. i may have suspected that in the past. I WILL have to check see where the pressure originates, but I am guessing you probablyknow where!

The "tractor guy" I referred to is a wonderful and I think quite knowlegible guy. Perhaps he lacked a trifle in Fords. I once saw a fellow pull apart my 66 Ford ( Galaxie convertible)c6 auto tranny apart and put it back together and in my car...all while I waited...rush job, car was sold and tranny suddenly got bad..near about 35 years ago. It was a Warner Robbins Georgia car I'd bought and brought home and pulled absolutely apart ( body off) and put together..Despite fact I'd pulled the car apart and done a good job putting it back together, this tranny guy both intimidated and impressed me with speed and skill. Not to mention the fact that I was surprised by # of parts in this particular tranny!!

Back to the current old girl.."tractor guy" had suggested if not stated that this tractor's hydraulics were essentially a "dogs breakfast" or "nightmare" or similar. Thinkling back to the C6 I thought leave it alone...and have done so....but perhaps it is time to try it myself.

I absolutetly don't know what I have here. Dad in law says it is a 53. It has that tin work. Might someone have added a 5spd to a 53 or do they not bolt up or???

Question??? are the hydraulics terribly complicated ?? ENCOURAGE!!! me I would like to pull it apart ( but not if it is anything similar to a C6!!!!!)

Thanks for help Boyd

 

[boydj]

Back again and of course seeking advice.

The hydraulics did work before, they were slow to get going. Like they wanted a warm up.

I have now got proper levels in all three cases....and zero for hydraulics.

So...Have I fouled the pump?? Is it something I can remove and repair without cracking the whole thing apart?

Any suggestions out there??
Thanks...meanwhile I'd best be reading about pump replacing!!

Boyd

 

[boydj]

And again


if you look on the trans bellhousing aft of the starter it will tell you the model id number and serial number..

also.. the hyds sump holds 2g.. it will show low till you have that much in there.

still same basic pump setup and unloading valve.. just slightly different in the naa top cover than an 00+ cover....

As noted above I went in search....I can see nothing there. Not to say it is not there. There is a 4inch wide metal plate bolted in that vicinity. It goes under and is part of the rigging that holds the front loader. I would have to remove it all, not a quick and easy task.

Just below right footrest, upside down is "1A17", and below that and upright is "310837"

Removing the seat on top of hydraulic area is "NOA 501-B" 2
57 U"
and near the pull knob for hydraulics "AICO VM3A"

I sure would like to get a manual but do not know what manual I should be looking for.
I am guessing this is a 650 or 660 tractor..
I have tried pulling off a hydraulic line and running it in event there is an air lock or similar. to no avail.

 

[Soundguy]

ok.. lots of stuff going on.

1, that torpedo tin style was used from 53-62.. naa was 53/early 54.

get the block casting number to id the block you have.. that will tell us engine size.

if there is a loader obscuring the bellhousing, we will be guessing at trans numbers.. but seeing a '310' prefix cast number tells me it is a later unit.. probably an 01 series..clutch / pto function will tell you if a *5* or *6*.. if the dash has a fuel gauge, and a red lamp lense charge indicator instead of an ammeter.. it is an 01.. if the rear hubs are smooth it is an 00, if there is a slot in them.. an 01


ie.. post some pics...

you have an aico hyd valve on the top cover.. if it is a diverter valve.. ensure it is not diverted.. if it is.. you will have no 3pt.

also.. i'd bleed the pump by pulling out the pipe plug in the top front of the head on the pump. whether or not he's a good tractor guy in general.. i can't say. all i can say is he doesn't know fords of that era...

55-64 machines are covered in the I&T f0-20 service manual

 

[Soundguy]

ps.. quit randomly doing things like pulling lines and hoping.

so far, random acts without porper direction are not helping you any.. they got you to flood the diffy and drain the hyds... stick to factual directions... 'hope' is good for things like lottery tickets and such.. not tractor diagnostics...

 

[boydj]

Back again and thank you soundguy for trying to help me.

First off..... "55-64 machines are covered in the I&T f0-20 service manual " .......Where can I purchase this??

I will attempt to post some photos, but no clue how to, will enlist help of wife who is much more computer savy.

I located a number at bottom right of motor ...# 310905


there is a speedo, ammeter, temp guage and oil pressure guage. The only one that works is the oil pressure guage. there is an empty hole that may have once held a red light. This old thing has been out in the weather, not even a tarp for the last 40 years.

The rear hubs are not smooth they have a raised 1/4 x2 inch offset part, rather the opposite of a slot.

there are a couple allen keyed pipe plugs on the pump, one at front side and other on right side.

Wow...probably took 1/2 hour to load these 5 photos. Hope they help. It is well below freezing this evening. I will try the pump plugs tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

so far witht he slotted rear hubs and dash with hole for a charge indicator i'm looking at an 01 series that someone stuck an ammeter in place of the fuel gauge.

the casting # 310905 - 134ci 1958-1959

so i'm seeing a 601 block.. and a matching 01 rear chassie.. if a 5spd.. it's either 651 or 661.. you can check the dual clutch by pressing half way and engaging pto ( entine off ).. if pto is stuck solid, but tractor can be rolled when in 1st gear.. then she is a dual clutch.

 

[boydj]

To be honest I haven't a clue how, and haven't had the need, to engage the pto. I have basically just used it to push snow and pull some stumps. So will this tractor be covered in "the I&T f0-20 service manual"??? Can you tell me where I might purchase one? I called a tractor place in New York today. We sort of zeroed in on one manual they thought would cover it, but not sure. It was going to be over $100 with shipping!! I decided to wait till at least I am sure.

If purging the pump with that pipe plug at front of pump doesn't help tomorrow, will I be making a mistake if I pull the pump off and pull it apart? Any pitfallsl I should be aware of??

The snow is mounting...I gotta get this thing going!
Thanks
Boyd

 

[Soundguy]

tractor supply, amazon.. other famr stores carry the I&T fo-20 manual.. and yes.. it covers 55-64 4 cyl machines... it's maybee a 30$ manaul..


pto handle is the 6" handle by your left heel.. aft of it actually.. near dipstick back there.

and no.. i would not pull the pump unless you know what you are doing. several pieces require special tools or knowledge to R&R

I would however burp it.. and do double check your valve on t he top cover.. if it is sending oil elsewhere.. the 3pt will not work....

pull that plug out of the top side front head of the pump.. probably can just loosen it and crank tractor over.. etc... may have to start it.. etc.

if it does not prime, put plug back in.. take a air hose blow gun.. preferably with rubber tip.. start tractor. run at mid throttle.. raise 3pt lever and be clear of 3pt.. remove hyds dipstick.. put air nozzle to dipstick hole and apply some air pressure. don't go wild and hit it for 150 psi.. etc.. that should force prime it...

post back..