Ford Jubilee Shift Problems

[HanknotFrank]

Just a comment about old Ford transmissions.

I use to work on a lot of Model A Fords and what you describe sounds very similar.

When cold the gear oil has more drag and when warmed up much less.

Had a guy come in saying he couldn't put it in gear without some clash or grinding when warm.

He had a modern gear lube that was nothing like the 600w Ford OEM gear oil.

I put in 600w and no more grinding when shifting when warm.

Some of the guys came up with their own mix having trouble finding 600w and that was adding STP

I have a Jubilee and shift is proper... my guess is whatever Steiner sells is the gear oil I have

I thought I would post some pics just in case anything jumps out at anyone. I said I thought the ends of the shifter were not worn but I saw some pics of a new one and it was not as rounded on the bottom. Thanks

 

[John0829]

A good and easy way to remove water from the housing is to use diesel instead of gas. Drain the housing and fill it with diesel then drive it around for awhile, DO NOT work the tractor, just drive it around. The faster you can go and more you can make turns to slosh the diesel around the better. The diesel will provide enough lube for the bearings so no worry there.

I do not know the oil you said you are using, in my 850 which is just a newer version of you NAA, I use UTF (Universal Tractor FLuid) from Tractor supply. It meets the Ford 134D specification or if you want you can use 80W90 in the transmission but most folks use the UTF because most of these old tractors have leaking seals between the transmission and hydraulic compartments. If they leak a little and you use the same in both compartments, no big deal. UTF is also safe for the differential compartment so one oil takes care of all three.

Your shifter is showing wear but not enough (IMHO) to worry about at this time. If it was trying to go into 2 gears at the same time then I would say replace it but right now I would not be concerned.

 

[HanknotFrank]

A good and easy way to remove water from the housing is to use diesel instead of gas. Drain the housing and fill it with diesel then drive it around for awhile, DO NOT work the tractor, just drive it around. The faster you can go and more you can make turns to slosh the diesel around the better. The diesel will provide enough lube for the bearings so no worry there.

I do not know the oil you said you are using, in my 850 which is just a newer version of you NAA, I use UTF (Universal Tractor FLuid) from Tractor supply. It meets the Ford 134D specification or if you want you can use 80W90 in the transmission but most folks use the UTF because most of these old tractors have leaking seals between the transmission and hydraulic compartments. If they leak a little and you use the same in both compartments, no big deal. UTF is also safe for the differential compartment so one oil takes care of all three.

Your shifter is showing wear but not enough (IMHO) to worry about at this time. If it was trying to go into 2 gears at the same time then I would say replace it but right now I would not be concerned.

 

[HanknotFrank]

Thank you.

 

[TractorTech]

It’s been awhile since I had the cover off one of these transmissions, but isn’t the rusty spot circled in the picture the 1st/3rd shift rail detent? This may be part of your problem.
Either way, you need to pull and clean the rust out of the bore and off of the spring and ball or replace both.

 

[HanknotFrank]

It’s been awhile since I had the cover off one of these transmissions, but isn’t the rusty spot circled in the picture the 1st/3rd shift rail detent? This may be part of your problem.
Either way, you need to pull and clean the rust out of the bore and off of the spring and ball or replace both.

Thanks for responding. This was taken before I cleaned the shaft with gas and changed the fluid the first time a month or 2 ago. I have changed the fluid again since then and also cleaned the detent ball spring. I was unable to get the detent ball out of the hole. How do you do that? I tried tweezers, air pressure, a magnet and could not get it out? I cleaned the hole with brake cleaner a couple of times too. Thanks.

 

[TractorTech]

Thanks for responding. This was taken before I cleaned the shaft with gas and changed the fluid the first time a month or 2 ago. I have changed the fluid again since then and also cleaned the detent ball spring. I was unable to get the detent ball out of the hole. How do you do that? I tried tweezers, air pressure, a magnet and could not get it out? I cleaned the hole with brake cleaner a couple of times too. Thanks.

Oh, I don't know any other tricks to pull out. Disassembling the shift rod and sliding it out is the next method.

 

[HanknotFrank]

Oh, I don't know any other tricks to pull out. Disassembling the shift rod and sliding it out is the next method.

Ok, thank you.

 

[TractorTech]

I forgot to ask, what does the spring and ball look like? Is the ball shiney or is it pitted?

 

[John0829]

Was it jumping out of gear? If not I would not worry to much about the detent, soak it with penetrating oil and move on.

Really since you have flushed the case and removed as much of the contaminates as you have I would just run it shifting as often as possible between all the gears. The rust will wear off and it will smooth up given some time. Besides, using and working the tractor will get you enjoyable/valuable seat time.

Granted cleaning off as much rust as you can reach would help speed the process, I really see no need open it up again or to get any deeper into it right now, such as doing a rebuild of the transmission. Unless you just want to. Just be aware there is a rebuild in its near or distant future simply because of the rust in the bearings caused by the water contamination.