Ford model 1920 starts run fine then wont start just clicks.

[Soundguy]

if that works.. then you have a bad connection.

EASY to resolve.. vs the bandaid fix.

once you clean up the battery wire to cable and terminal connections.. coat all with grease.. tighten up..

clean , bright, tight, good for electrical connections.

loose connections arc and burn.. let corrosion in.. cause hard starts, over current, and hard charging...

 

[journeyman]

I have a similar problem. Bought my 1920 the other day, off the lot the salesman jumped it and it fired right up with no block heater on a sub zero F day. Took her home and ran her on some cold days. The battery was giving me trouble so I switched it out for a big 800 CCA battery. Put her in, and the starter wont fire. The bendix jumps, but she doesn't spin. I tried everything, took it off, brought it to my electric guy, he put it on his bench, and it fired right up. I brought it back, put it on and it ran like a top. Next day, after a cold night, same problem. I bring it back to my electric guy, he says nothings wrong, I put it back on, and it runs like a top. So finally third day, cold start, same problem, I take it off, put it on my cars dash and let it warm up with the warm air (the only variable that seems to affect it) and voila, she runs. Have been doing this for a week now wasting forty five minutes a day (though I am getting faster). What do I do? Order a new starter? Rebuild? is it my friggin' terminals? haha. any advice will help. The starter is a mitsubishi aftermarket that had the same problem with the bendix extending but not spinning even when jumped by my running truck (13.6v under the alternator) while it was cold. Can a rebuild be performed by an amateur over night? Would it be worth a try?

 

[horsepuller]

I'm no starter expert, but the symptoms you describe make me wonder if you don't have a problem with excess lubrication on the bendix and solenoid shafts. I suggest checking and cleaning off any oil or grease you can get off, then lubricate with dry graphite. I have read of starter hang-up problems due to excess or dirty lubrication. Good luck.

 

[Redneck in training]

Graphite is hydroscopic (atracts water) and will cause rust. You have to use Molly. Google "Molly dry lubricants". Graphite is great on hot parts. Molly is great for cold (and hot) parts such as motorcycle chains, starters and this sort of things.

 

[kirkawilson]

My starter problems continue like yours. My 'tractor guy' suggested this; if the starter keeps 'clicking' after about 10 tries, bypass the electrical wiring harness by jumping the starter solenoid with a screwdriver (or a pair of long screwdrivers in my case) directly from the battery connection on the starter. Make sure tractor is in neutral, PTO is off, and ignition switch is on. Remove the side panel to gain access to starter electrical connections. Remove the solenoid wire connector to expose metal spade connector on starter solenoid. Slide rubber boot back to expose battery connection on starter. Put one screwdriver tip on the exposed metal portion of the spade solenoid connector and the second screwdriver tip on the exposed battery terminal connection. Touch the two screwdriver bodies together to 'short' the battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid until the tractor starts. It will usually spark a little when the screwdrivers touch. If the starter fires quickly and tractor starts every time, the problem is voltage drop in the tractor wiring. I have been doing this for the last 10+ 'clicking' episodes and the tractor started every time.
Months ago, I tried adding the extra starter relay suggested previously in this thread but my wiring voltage drop is so bad, it would not even engage the relay. So to avoid the timely search of the voltage loss in the wiring harness, a good fix is to install a spring-loaded push-button on the dash and wire it to the same connections that the screwdrivers touch. Then I will be able to short the starter from the seat by pushing the button with the ignition on. WARNING: This procedure bypasses all of the electrical safety switches in the starting circuit, so be very careful.