SPREADSHEETS. I was just reading through these posts and a few things stood out.
One was the homemade spreadsheet for comparing different tractors. That's real nice especially for someone just getting started and not yet used to comparing tractors. And fun for everyone else to read. I am more struck by the similarities in all the tractors than by the differences in different models.
WEIGHT. You have to own a tractor to understand the importance of weight. There are sort of two kinds of weight....one is a function of how heavily built that the tractor is. Big frame, heavy engine & transmission castings, solid wheels, heavy 3pt arms, big FEL parts...things like that. You can't add that stuff and it is golden.
The other type is additional weight & can always be added with wheel weights,
ballast, and tire fluid - and that's better than nothing, but sure not as good as the other type.
A LOCAL DEALER....well, I don't know. YMMV. We just turned over 1000 hours in 15 years of ownership and I've been to the dealer twice - both times just because I was out that way so stopped in to buy special lubes. The tractor hasn't needed repairs - and I think that is typical and not at all unusual. That type of reliability is exactly why I bought a top of the line model. Yes, it has needed some parts like maintenance items, cables, hoses, gaskets, valves.... those I ordered online (Messicks) which is exactly what the dealer would have done.
Dealer avoidance only works for me because I have mechanical knowlege plus tools and like to use them both. If that isn't you, please take some advice from my years of having a repair shop:
Look for a dealer that has the best repair facility (ask to see it), and especially check that they have a mobile service truck and offer tractor pickup and delivery. If they don't have those things, they simply are not serious about service. If they don't have mobile service, and having dealer service is that important to you, definitely find another dealer - even if it means a different brand.
FEL LIFT. About the same across the board but often measured differently.
What does make a difference is not often mentioned: Visibility and quality of parts and hydraulics. Especially the influence of geometry and the quality of the hydraulic valves. Here's a test. Working against a load, can you move the FEL valve lever just a slightest bit and reliably get a controllable tiny movement of the front edge of the bucket? Or does it jump and shudder? You may not think so now, but in use that ability to feather the valve is huge.
HORSEPOWER: Get enough so that you don't have to always run wide open to pull the load. You may choose to run high RPM for emissions, but at least you have the option.
GEARS & RANGES: More is better. Always.
3PT Hitch: You want hand crank adjusters and telescoping arms.
ROPS: Get an insulated factory canopy to fit that ROPS.
EXTRA HYDRAULICS: Get at least one. Either front or back. You can then add more valves & long hoses as long as you have one extra outlet somewhere.
SEATING: However you do it, upgrade the seat. Your back will benefit.
EAR PROTECTION: I bought several headsets, and found that so far my $30 basic Swiss shooter's headset works better in most ways than the Bose, JD, and Sony noise-cancelling headsets that cost 10x as much. It's not as comfortable though.
TOOLBOX & LUNCHBOX: You have to make your own.
Good Luck in your tractor search,
rScotty