front plow and rear blade

[RNeumann]

I primarily use the front snowplow, but I often use the rear blade to clean up tight spots. I generally push with the rear blade and I have lots of control. I have to sneak by parked cars and wood piles. I love the loaded ag tires for snowplowing. I normally have no problem, but have experienced some slight fishtailing at times. I know some rear ballast would help. I'm probably just looking for the perfect setup, if that's possible.

Would siping the tires help?

 

[oosik]

I've often wondered about siping. I just got new tries - Toyo Open Country - on my Jeep and they are siped. Helps a whole lot on the Jeep. I really don't think siping would be of that much benefit on the tractor - in my case. 100% of my time is either on the unbroken ground on my 80 acres or my mile long gravel driveway. I run R1 on my M6040 - it probably would help a tractor with turf tires on an asphalt or concrete driveway.

 

[RNeumann]

I've often wondered about siping. I just got new tries - Toyo Open Country - on my Jeep and they are siped. Helps a whole lot on the Jeep. I really don't think siping would be of that much benefit on the tractor - in my case. 100% of my time is either on the unbroken ground on my 80 acres or my mile long gravel driveway. I run R1 on my M6040 - it probably would help a tractor with turf tires on an asphalt or concrete driveway.

The folks with the R4s love it. This forum has a ton of info on it- the tool to buy, technique etc. Technically I don’t know if it’s siping or just “grooving” the lugs. Either name I just haven’t heard much about the R1s.

 

[chuck172]

Never heard of siping R1's. Is this even done?

 

[motownbrowne]

I chainsaw grooved my R4s. Not recommending it, but it worked. Cheap and fast.

 

[ovrszd]

Never heard of siping R1's. Is this even done?

I'm afraid the gain would be dramatically offset by the weakening of the lug. This might then result in the log breaking loose from the carcass.

I siped the R4s on my previous tractor and saw some gain. I used a 1/2" wide cutter blade on a siping tool.

With that said, nothing can replace chains if they are truly needed. I chained my rear R4s to work in frozen timber. Night and day difference. Steered with the brakes a lot.

 

[RoyJackson]

I like using both the front plow and rear blade for snow. Problem is the rear blade doesn't add enough ballast to counter the front plow. What's a good way to add weight to the rear? I do have loaded tires.

Since your 3PH probably doesn't have down pressure, it's pretty dependent on the weight of the blade. Also, if you're clearing the snow with the front plow and rear blade simultaneously, any advantage to having the rear blade would be negated since it's on the ground, not adding any ballast.
All that said, I suggest you add weights to the rear blade. I've seen suitcase weights rigged to the top of the rear blade, but with a little ingenuity and fabrication, I'm sure you could figure an alternative.
Just remember that, as long as the rear blade is on the ground, it's not going to help much as rear ballast.

 

[blackrams]

Hello,
On both my box blade and my grader blade (rear three point hitch mounted) I use a 3.5 foot piece of railroad track that slips over a couple of uprights I had welded on both implements. Works like a charm on my 4wd Ford 1210 tractor. Just purchased a Ford 702a front blade/plow for the front. I suspect I'm going to need chains now but have not had an opportunity to put this blade/plow to use. All of my snow pushing will be on concrete or asphalt.
Honestly, being in central Kentucky, I consider my snow equipment like insurance. I never want to have to use it but, if I need to, it's there. :laughing:

BTW, my Ford 1210 has turf tires so, I'm looking for an appropriate set of chains for both front and rear. Suggestions would be appreciated.

Rams

 

[Fallon]

Hello,
On both my box blade and my grader blade (rear three point hitch mounted) I use a 3.5 foot piece of railroad track that slips over a couple of uprights I had welded on both implements. Works like a charm on my 4wd Ford 1210 tractor. Just purchased a Ford 702a front blade/plow for the front. I suspect I'm going to need chains now but have not had an opportunity to put this blade/plow to use. All of my snow pushing will be on concrete or asphalt.

BTW, my Ford 1210 has turf tires so, I'm looking for an appropriate set of chains for both front and rear. Suggestions would be appreciated.

Rams

Tirechains.com has treated me right. Tractor Tire Chains-Comparison-Application. Can't tell you how my reinforced net's or Snow Dawg SSQA blade worked on my new L4060 (R4s) as there wasn't enough snow to plow last year. Only got front chains as that's all I needed on the old L3200. Can see about fitment for rears if I find I need them this winter.

I had Vbar duogrips on the fron't of my L3200 (R4s) & they did great. No clearance for any chains on the rear unless I got spacers.

 

[blackrams]

Tirechains.com has treated me right. Tractor Tire Chains-Comparison-Application. Can't tell you how my reinforced net's or Snow Dawg SSQA blade worked on my new L4060 (R4s) as there wasn't enough snow to plow last year. Only got front chains as that's all I needed on the old L3200. Can see about fitment for rears if I find I need them this winter.

I had Vbar duogrips on the fron't of my L3200 (R4s) & they did great. No clearance for any chains on the rear unless I got spacers.

Will check them out, thanks. :drink: