Front tranny seal for ford 4500 with power reversing transmission

[somanytractors]

I have a ford 4500 with a 4 speed power reversing transmission. It has a torque converter instead of a clutch.
The numbers (as best I can make out) by the starter are
D 5011F
OD10B
G268477

On the side of the tranny
1211 69
43101
L

The front transmission seal is leaking.
Can anyone tell me the part number of the seal I need for this?
I would really like to get the seal before taking it apart so I can pull it apart and put it back together on the same day.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
John

 

[sd455dan]

Try Messick's parts look up Worth a try they had a full breakdown of my Ford 550

 

[azbinder]

I have a ford 4500 with a 4 speed power reversing transmission. It has a torque converter instead of a clutch.
The numbers (as best I can make out) by the starter are
D 5011F
OD10B
G268477

On the side of the tranny
1211 69
43101
L

The front transmission seal is leaking.
Can anyone tell me the part number of the seal I need for this?
I would really like to get the seal before taking it apart so I can pull it apart and put it back together on the same day.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
John

Pic #! stamped #'s D5011F = 4500, Diesel, No PTO ,
0D10B + Built April 10, 1970 day shift.
C (not G) 268477 is S/N.

Pic #2 Raised #'s Casting / part numbers. Not needed for obtaining parts.

 

[TractorTech]

D8NN7N089AA torque converter seal.
Hopefully, you can just go in and replace the seal. BUT, it takes some doing to split and you shouldn’t just do a hurried job. At the very least, remove the torque converter, check flex plate for cracks. You may consider replacing the rear main seal and the rear freeze plugs as well at this time. Check the forward/reverse linkage roll pins for wear or looseness. Resealing the shuttle should be considered too, but if it shifts cleanly then you could avoid.
Up to you. It just takes time to split and buckle up.

On last tip, if you remove the steering box bolts on the bell housing after you loosen up the drag link, you can get the drag link all the way off the arm. The other method is taking the pitman arm off of the steering box, but if it has been on the shaft a long time…good luck with that.

Nice looking tractor btw. Side and front views would be nice!

 

[somanytractors]

Thanks everyone for the help.
I love this forum. It's my go to place when I need help. Everyone is always helpful here.
And thanks Tractor Tech for the part number!
It should be pretty easy to get apart. I just went through the motor and put it back in, and I knew to replace the seal but just forgot about it so now I have to pull it apart again.
Here's a few more pics. I've rebuilt a few tractors. I included a before pis too

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Definitely check the flex plate for any sign of a crack.

 

[TractorTech]

Nice paint job! Nicer than factory

 

[somanytractors]

Definitely check the flex plate for any sign of a crack.

The flex plate is fine. I just had it off to change the rear main seal when I had the motor out.
Everything seems in pretty good condition except that I forgot to change the torque converter seal.

 

[azbinder]

The flex plate is fine. I just had it off to change the rear main seal when I had the motor out.
Everything seems in pretty good condition except that I forgot to change the torque converter seal.

Did you change the freeze plugs in the back of the head and block. The one in the can only be accessed with the tractor split. Ask me how I know.

 

[somanytractors]

Did you change the freeze plugs in the back of the head and block. The one in the can only be accessed with the tractor split. Ask me how I know.

Yep. The one in the block was leaking of course. The 3000s have the same problem. That's a pretty stupid place for a freeze plug. When they leak you wind up with water in the starter and clutch, and then the clutch winds up struck together and the starter full of rust. I've seen that problem before.