Frozen Feedback control shaft on 3 point - Ford 1920

[mroberts5]

Brand new 1920 owner. The feedback mechanism for the 3 point positioning seems to be frozen. When I bought it the little L bracket connecting the feedback rod to the control shaft was snapped. I replaced the bracket and the shaft will rotate a little, but then the new bracket snapped as well. I imagine this should be very loose.

Any idea? I'm guessing I'm going to have to take the cover off and clean up / grease the entire mechanism. I have a copy of the Shibaura ST440 manual (similar), but the instructions are VERY light. Having never done this before - anyone have any tips? It looks like I need to drain the hydraulic fluid and remove the valve cover assembly, which should give me access to everything I need. Any tips on that? What body parts can I easily remove to get better access to this area?

Thanks.

 

[JC-jetro]

The connecting rod is a hinged parallelogram that links rock-shaft to the spool valve to return it to neutral position at any given 3 point height. The hinges have a rod and a pin to tire them together. I think you might have a rid bent or pin busted. You do not need to take the cover off to observe and even get your hand in there to work. if you move the lift cylinder head and withdraw the lift cylinder then the spool and associated bracket and part of rock-shaft will be exposed.


JC,

 

[mroberts5]

When you say to withdraw the cylinder, do you mean remove the piston?

 

[JC-jetro]

When you say to withdraw the cylinder, do you mean remove the piston?

No. I meant the cylinder and piston as a whole assembly. There is ram rod connected on a pivot to the rockshaft that pushes the piston in one direction only. lowering the arm by releasing trap oil and weight of the implement will lower the arm. can take the piston off without withdrawing the cylinder. Link below relates to 1700 but will give you visual clue.

JC,

Look at NH online diagrams , they are invaluable.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html?highlight=

 

[mroberts5]

Great, thanks. Dumb question, but do I need to drain some or all of the hydraulic fluid to remove this or will it have all drained back to the sump?

 

[JC-jetro]

Great, thanks. Dumb question, but do I need to drain some or all of the hydraulic fluid to remove this or will it have all drained back to the sump?

You do not need to drain anything. Lower the arm all the way to dissipate the pressure with the tractor turned off. if you have loader then bleed the pressure of there too. on the cylinder you have two plugs. you can losen the one on the right side from the driver seat just to make sure you have no rapped pressure. I think you have 6 bolts to remove, pry the cylinder head gently and cylinder and piston will come out out of the housing. What separate head and cylinder wall is a fat round o-ring.

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

Robert,

I know I sent you some pic. I found one of my older thread that might help you out.

Jc,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...st-not-adjust.html?highlight=ford+1700+clutch

 

[mroberts5]

Fixed it (thanks for the help JC).

I removed the piston, but all looked good on the inside. Nothing broken, bent etc. So I then pulled the whole valve cover off (had to remove the fender - not too bad), removed the snap ring, banged the feedback shaft out a little and cleaned everything with WD-40 and some steel wool. After that it turned smooth as can be. The O-Ring looked good, in fact none of it looked too bad - it looked like it just gummed/rusted into place. Here are some photos for anyone interested:

 

[JC-jetro]

Woohoo, Success at last, remind me to send you a final bill,

JC,

Fixed it (thanks for the help JC).

I removed the piston, but all looked good on the inside. Nothing broken, bent etc. So I then pulled the whole valve cover off (had to remove the fender - not too bad), removed the snap ring, banged the feedback shaft out a little and cleaned everything with WD-40 and some steel wool. After that it turned smooth as can be. The O-Ring looked good, in fact none of it looked too bad - it looked like it just gummed/rusted into place. Here are some photos for anyone interested:
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