I found that picture. Is the seal behind the timing cover gasket #28? I would assume that the shaft that Part #1 screws into has a seal. However I do not see one in my book. I do not see any seals on the crankshaft page or the motor block page . Thank you for your input. This site is priceless,Robby
Oil & Fuel fuel in oil yangdong 380
- Thread starter jaroban
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Soundguy
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If you pull the pump, and look at the shaft, the thing sourrounding the shaft where it enters the pump is the seal.
Also.. if you have hyd restrictions you couldd be forcing oil pas tthe seal, vs it just leaking.
Also.. if you have hyd oil in your crankcase.. simply draining back to 'level' is not going to do.. you need to change the oil... HYD oil is not spec'ed for a diesel crankcase... ( you'd be better of running crankcase oil in a hyd system than running hyd oil in a crankcase.. when it comes to parts longevity.. )
Soundguy
Also.. if you have hyd restrictions you couldd be forcing oil pas tthe seal, vs it just leaking.
Also.. if you have hyd oil in your crankcase.. simply draining back to 'level' is not going to do.. you need to change the oil... HYD oil is not spec'ed for a diesel crankcase... ( you'd be better of running crankcase oil in a hyd system than running hyd oil in a crankcase.. when it comes to parts longevity.. )
Soundguy
RonMar
Elite Member
And just what exactly does a tractor picture have to do with Robby's leak?china tractor said:Hi, try !
BE GONE TROLL!
Edit: Wow that was fast work! Thanks for pulling that post admin
JohnS
Platinum Member
It is unlikely that the hyd pump shaft seal is your only problem. You have way too much hyd fluid in the crankcase to just be that seal. That seal only prevents migration of non-pressurized hyd oil seapage. The pump is probably bad, which will put pressurized oil against that seal, and it will not hold it. Take your pump apart and see what you find.
JohnS
Platinum Member
I would check your quick disconnects couplings. A failed pump is usually caused by a dead-head situation. It could have happened a while before you noticed it. You don't want to kill that new pump.
RonMar
Elite Member
What John Said! In fact, if you are not regularly making and breaking the quick connect fittings such as to put a loader on/off, I would reccomend either replacing the QC fittings with a straight hydraulic fitting, or disassembling them and removing the circlip, retainer, spring, and ball from both the male and female fittings. The spring quality on the chinese QC fittings may not be consistent. This can lead to one ball overpowering the other and restricting the hydraulic flow without you even knowing it.
Removing the checkballs is easy to do, but must be done to both fittings in a quick connect pair and to any other fittings that they may ever be mated with. One fitting with a ball still in place will not allow flow. You can remove them by unscrewing the fitting from the end of the hose. Look in where the hose threads and you will see a circle clip/snap ring and a star shaped plate. That is the spring retainer plate and behind that is the spring and ball. Use a pair of snap ring pliars and remove all 4 of these parts and re-install the fitting onto the hydraulic hose. Do this same process for the other QC fittings it mates with. Save the parts in a ziplock bag in case you ever want to re-install them.
I removed the parts from the 4 QC fittings I use on my tractor and loader. IF I have to remove the loader(rare), I will spill a small quantity of fluid, but I quickly mate up the tractor pair and mate up the loader pair. This is common practice anyway to keep the connectors clean on the loader during storage, and necessary to feed hydraulic pressure on to the steering and 3PH on the Jinma.
Another good thing to do is to put a large zip-tie around the base of the sliding colar on the female QC fittings. This locks the sliding collar forward and prevents it from being inadvertently retracted and accidently opening the QC connection. This is really bad for the pump as the fluid has no where to go and the pressure quickly increases beyond the 2500PSI or so that it is rated for. This can/will blow out seals in the pump or crack the pump housing. It will also drag the engine down to a stop quickly which is hard on the gear train on the front of the engine. If you remove the checkballs from the QC fittings, an accidental separation is not such a big deal. It will be messy and spray a lot of fluid, but it won't damage the pump
A seal being worn out could also be caused by restricting the flow into the pump. What hydraulic fluid are you using? The pump is lubricated and cooled by the hydraulic flow thru it. Too thick a fluid for your temperature or a restriction on the pump suction could shorten the life of the pump. The stock fluids that come in the Jinma's are pretty thick. Too thick for a cold climate, and probably not the best selecton for a hydraulic system. If there is a delay before your hydraulics work after startup, particularly when cold, that is a sign of too thick a fluid. I would reccomend running AW-32 hydraulic fluid.
Good Luck.
Removing the checkballs is easy to do, but must be done to both fittings in a quick connect pair and to any other fittings that they may ever be mated with. One fitting with a ball still in place will not allow flow. You can remove them by unscrewing the fitting from the end of the hose. Look in where the hose threads and you will see a circle clip/snap ring and a star shaped plate. That is the spring retainer plate and behind that is the spring and ball. Use a pair of snap ring pliars and remove all 4 of these parts and re-install the fitting onto the hydraulic hose. Do this same process for the other QC fittings it mates with. Save the parts in a ziplock bag in case you ever want to re-install them.
I removed the parts from the 4 QC fittings I use on my tractor and loader. IF I have to remove the loader(rare), I will spill a small quantity of fluid, but I quickly mate up the tractor pair and mate up the loader pair. This is common practice anyway to keep the connectors clean on the loader during storage, and necessary to feed hydraulic pressure on to the steering and 3PH on the Jinma.
Another good thing to do is to put a large zip-tie around the base of the sliding colar on the female QC fittings. This locks the sliding collar forward and prevents it from being inadvertently retracted and accidently opening the QC connection. This is really bad for the pump as the fluid has no where to go and the pressure quickly increases beyond the 2500PSI or so that it is rated for. This can/will blow out seals in the pump or crack the pump housing. It will also drag the engine down to a stop quickly which is hard on the gear train on the front of the engine. If you remove the checkballs from the QC fittings, an accidental separation is not such a big deal. It will be messy and spray a lot of fluid, but it won't damage the pump
A seal being worn out could also be caused by restricting the flow into the pump. What hydraulic fluid are you using? The pump is lubricated and cooled by the hydraulic flow thru it. Too thick a fluid for your temperature or a restriction on the pump suction could shorten the life of the pump. The stock fluids that come in the Jinma's are pretty thick. Too thick for a cold climate, and probably not the best selecton for a hydraulic system. If there is a delay before your hydraulics work after startup, particularly when cold, that is a sign of too thick a fluid. I would reccomend running AW-32 hydraulic fluid.
Good Luck.