Rear Blade Got a rear blade.. Now what?

[jnjpream]

So I picked up a rear blade thinking I could use it to level and maintain the path that circles our property. Hooked up and tried it today and I think all I did was relocate the damage.

What's the trick to using a rear blade on uneven ground populated with ruts, ridges, and weeds?

Sometimes the blade just drags over the weeds, other times a corner will dig in and start pulling down a ridge provided the tractor wheel isn't on the ridge, and other times the entire blade will dig in until it stalls the tractor (usually in a place I don't need it to dig in).

It seems to work ok to level things if I dig the dirt up with the FEL first, but then why the heck should I even hook up to the blade at that point? I could just back drag with the bucket.

I haven't tried it on my gravel drive, or to move snow yet. But those tasks are minor compared to the path leveling.

Any help would be much appreciated..

Jeff

 

[jk96]

Use the rear blade for clearing snow and buy a box blade for leveling, filling ruts, etc. You'll be amazed how much better a box blade works for the type of work your trying to do.

jk

 

[KML]

A box blade would be good for this as jk96 said. But if you dont feel like running out and buying a new implement a set of gauge wheels will make that blade perform VERY well at leveling your path, working your driveway and removing snow from a gravel drive without pushing most of your gravel in the ditch for a lot less money.

The difference between a rear blade (or landscape rake) with and without gauge wheels is night and day!

As far as the blade digging and not, play with the top link length. Just try it in a few different positions (way in , middle, way out) as this will change how the blade bites.

What size and weight blade did you get BTW?

 

[jnjpream]

My tractor is small (BX22) so I went with a 6'. Not sure what the weight is though. The fact that I'm hooked to a BX22 also throws a wrench into playing with the top link.. As it is now, my top link is all the way in and it only allows me 6" clearance when at full lift. If I crank it out, I would run the risk of exceeding the 3pt upwards travel and suspend the tractor from the blade. Not sure what that would do to the tractor, but it's probably not good for it.


I really need to rig something up on the 3pt because it is a common problem with all my implements. I added new lift pins 5" lower that the original ones on my mower to get around the issue..

 

[Runner]

Not being the best operator in the world, I find that gauge wheels on the rear blade help keep it from digging in too much for me. When I re-gravelled my drive, I set the blade up about an inch and it worked perfectly.

 

[bigdad]

Like KML says, Gauge Wheels. I "sing" about them all the time. Also, just spending a little time getting used to your equipment helps too. It'll become second nature once you FEEL the weak and strong points.

Some RB's have the option for side wings that help pull the material you stir along with the blade. Kind of a poor man's box blade.

 

[jsboening]

I've found the only way to really smooth things out is to till first. Otherwise the dirt is just too clumpy. All the vegetation seems to hold the dirt together preventing it from being evenly distributed. Even when I use my box blade with the scarifers down it doesn't beak the turf up enough. I tried to smooth out part of my field that use to be a corn field. I went over it and over it with the box blade and it just seemed to make a bigger mess than it was. I put the tiller on and then box bladed it. Man what a difference.

 

[TDVT]

The top-link adjustment makes a big difference in cutting by changing the angle of the blade to the ground. A longer T-L tips the blade back so the cutting edge will dig in & vice-versa. Still, a box blade would be better.

 

[KML]

"I really need to rig something up on the 3pt because it is a common problem with all my implements. I added new lift pins 5" lower that the original ones on my mower to get around the issue.."

A had a JD 455 garden tractor with a Cat 0 3 point and had the same problem with all of the readily available attachments being too tall. My fix was to modify a Harbor Freight quick hitch to give more lift height. Kinda killed two birds with one stone- I got the ease of changing implements and didn't have to take the welder after every attachment. Worked pretty well..

I'll see if I have a picture around...

 

[LBrown59]

1*I've found the only way to really smooth things out is to till first.
2*Otherwise the dirt is just too clumpy.
All the vegetation seems to hold the dirt together preventing it from being evenly distributed. Even when I use my box blade with the scarifers down it doesn't beak the turf up enough. I tried to smooth out part of my field that use to be a corn field. I went over it and over it with the box blade and it just seemed to make a bigger mess than it was.
3* I put the tiller on and then box bladed it. Man what a difference.

1*That's exactly why I have a BX1500 with a tiller and a front blade .
2*Clumpy dirt just don't make for a smooth surface.
I level the tilled out dirt with the FEL on the BX23 and or the front blade on the BX1500.
I find with this combo I have no need for a Box Blade.