Grading with a loader

[1930]

I have a large loader being dropped off on my property Wednesday, I have alot of material to move around.

After thats done I'll need to get things as smooth as possible without all the whoopdeedoos.

Any tips to do this would be appreciated

 

[seville009]

It’s tough to make things smooth with a loader, mainly because you can’t really keep an eye on the bucket edge.

Best bet is to do as best as you can can going forward, the curl the bucket a bit in float while going in reverse.

I used to use a 3pt tiller to fluff up the dirt and then use the floating bucket in reverse method.

 

[kwbretired]

When you finish moving most of the material to where you want it, you level/ smooth out with a bionic blade. Works great. It also helps if you have draft control on the 3 point hitch.

 

[dodge man]

I also have the best luck back dragging with the bucket. Depending on how you roll the bucket controls how much material you move. It can also help if you backdrag on direction than turn 90 degrees and do it again..

 

[Thomas]

There number ways to do this project mostly depends on kind material.
Bucket material into place smooth compact with tires add more material if need be and level, final level back drag with bucket with slight pressure should extend piston for it puts stress on them.

Post some pics of the project.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a large loader being dropped off on my property Wednesday, I have alot of material to move around.

After thats done I'll need to get things as smooth as possible without all the whoopdeedoos.

Any tips to do this would be appreciated

Will this be a wheel loader with a large front bucket?

What type of materials are you moving around? Is it dirt, sand, gravel?

I own a bulldozer and a loader/backhoe. I used to have a boxblade, but got rid of it because it was worthless compared to what I already have to move and spread material.

I love to back with the front bucket of my backhoe. I tried to teach my dad, but he just never got it. So there is a little bit of a learning curve, but not much. After every load of material that you dump, use the back of the bucket to pull it backwards. With a little change in the angle of the bucket, you can go from build up the area you are dragging to, or digging down. The way my bucket is designed, it's also very easy to see when it's flat, so back dragging material and making it flat is also very easy.

The important thing to remember, is for this to work, the front tires "HAVE" to be off of the ground. All of the weight has to be on the bucket. You cannot steer, you just go backwards as far as you can, or as far as you need to, then stop, raise the bucket, go forward again and repeat by going in the same direction, or angling yourself in a new direction.

If you back drag too much material, or accidentally dug down too deep, you can push that material forward with the bottom of your bucket while angling the front edge up and going forward. I've found that to be an easier fix then trying to scoop up the material with the bucket and then dump it again, but sometimes that's the only option.

Most importantly, take your time and don't stop until you get it right. There will never be time to come back and do it again.

 

[s219]

The important thing to remember, is for this to work, the front tires "HAVE" to be off of the ground. All of the weight has to be on the bucket. You cannot steer, you just go backwards as far as you can, or as far as you need to, then stop, raise the bucket, go forward again and repeat by going in the same direction, or angling yourself in a new direction.

I agree, but I think this needs a disclaimer that the method is for experts only. There have been a few folks that messed up their loaders doing it this way, so I think it takes experience, deserves caution, and requires a strong loader. To me this is for spreading loose material only, and not for grading packed soil or back dragging in areas where there might be rocks, stumps, or other stuff to get hung up on.

The real vulnerability is the cylinders, curl and lift, and some tractors are weaker than others in this regard. I can think of threads here where people bent the rod on a cylinder, cracked the rod, or tore apart the cylinder. The loaders on compact tractors are generally well protected when using hydraulics to apply force, since you'll run into relief before something breaks or bends. But when using the tractor wheels to apply the force, you lose that relief protection and the "fuses" are the cylinders and loader frame. This is a concept experienced folks are aware of, but unfortunately newbies seem to learn it the hard way.

I have great luck back dragging, and I usually do it with the loader in float. There is still a good a bit of weight pressing down (loader arms and bucket weight, plus anything you may have in the bucket) but the risks are much lower. Adjusting the bucket angle via curl can give very good control over the result, much like top link angle on a box blade.

When spreading material, I dump the load, back drag to do initial spreading, then follow up with the box blade to smooth and fine tune it. A box blade with a hydraulic top link is still the most effective tool for me, but dumping and back dragging with the loader first makes it quicker and more productive overall (no need to turn tractor around, etc).

 

[EddieWalker]

good point. I'm using a New Holland 555E full sized loader backhoe, so cylinder strength isn't an issue. For those with compact tractors, that's something to consider and maybe not do. Since he said that he was having a "loader" dropped off, I was thinking that it might be a full sized wheel loader. I'm not sure what else it could be?

 

[4570Man]

Grading with a loader is hard even for experienced operators. That’s why they built dozers and graders. If you could get a CTL you’d be way ahead.

 

[WranglerX]

It’s tough to make things smooth with a loader, mainly because you can’t really keep an eye on the bucket edge.

Best bet is to do as best as you can can going forward, the curl the bucket a bit in float while going in reverse.

I used to use a 3pt tiller to fluff up the dirt and then use the floating bucket in reverse method.

That seem to work best for me...

Dale