Halogen headlights to HID/ LED light bar?

[apriordan]

I'm done buying $13 individual JD bulbs for the headlights on my tractor. I've been on jdparts, once identifying the halogen light bar info subsequent Google searches do not talk in detail about headlamp wiring harness type.

I'd like to keep the existing headlight and dash control in place...

1st. Does anyone know about a HID or LED bulb/ conversion kit that will plug and play with the "t-style" harness in place today?
2nd. If not, what are recommendations for re-wiring a 12" - 20" light bar as a replacement for the OEM light bar?

I have not altered the dash in anyway, and plan to add rocker type switches for 2 rear work lights and two under sunshade spot lights (forward facing) in the future.

Can anyone help?

 

[Fallon]

Generally you just want to rip out the whole halogen housing & put in a LED unit. Not as easy to do with headlights but very easy to do with ROPS or cab mounted lights.

Halogen bulbs get hot & put off light from one tiny element. LEDs put off less heat but will cook themselves to death if they get hot. They also put off limited light per LED, so require more LEDs that can't occupy the same space to get the appropriate light.

Some people seem to like some headlight retrofit LED kits. They are illegal in the road as they cause alterations in the headlight pattern blinding oncoming drivers. They also have issues cooling the LEDs through the tiny halogen plug housing.

Just figure your power capacity, wither what your wire & fuses are rated for, or the wattage your old bulbs are rated for & get LEDs rated for equal or less. Your other option is to rewire things for more power (the option I'm doing putting a 43" & 52" LED light bar on my L4060).

If you are replacing headlights with a light bar, you can do it reasonably cheap. Both my light bars were $45-65 each off Amazon. I'm probably going to double that with wire, fuse box, relays & switches.

If you are going to use the stock wiring harness, you might be able to find an adapter for the halogen bulb socket. It would be easier to cut or splice into the wiring harness though.

Personally I feel a light bat on the cab or ROPS gives MUCH better coverage than headlights that just glare off the back of my bucket.

 

[apriordan]

Generally you just want to rip out the whole halogen housing & put in a LED unit. Not as easy to do with headlights but very easy to do with ROPS or cab mounted lights.

Halogen bulbs get hot & put off light from one tiny element. LEDs put off less heat but will cook themselves to death if they get hot. They also put off limited light per LED, so require more LEDs that can't occupy the same space to get the appropriate light.

Some people seem to like some headlight retrofit LED kits. They are illegal in the road as they cause alterations in the headlight pattern blinding oncoming drivers. They also have issues cooling the LEDs through the tiny halogen plug housing.

Just figure your power capacity, wither what your wire & fuses are rated for, or the wattage your old bulbs are rated for & get LEDs rated for equal or less. Your other option is to rewire things for more power (the option I'm doing putting a 43" & 52" LED light bar on my L4060).

If you are replacing headlights with a light bar, you can do it reasonably cheap. Both my light bars were $45-65 each off Amazon. I'm probably going to double that with wire, fuse box, relays & switches.

If you are going to use the stock wiring harness, you might be able to find an adapter for the halogen bulb socket. It would be easier to cut or splice into the wiring harness though.

Personally I feel a light bat on the cab or ROPS gives MUCH better coverage than headlights that just glare off the back of my bucket.

I found some 12v (not 14v) replacement bulbs that should by me some time. Also learned the base is a px15d. There are led motorcycle bulbs on amazon I might be able to use and replace the halogen which would be great.

I do plan on getting a light bar, and or led spot/flood lamps. Problem is I have sunshade and ROPS as only mounting surfaces.

I considered a light bar beneath the front grill, but reconsidered since I often am running things over.

I may measure the distance between the two sure shade supporting bars and try to get an light bar for install there.

Furthermore, I plan on upgrading the battery to a yellowtop or something so that should be interesting given all the extras I'll be running.

Rambling done

 

[piercedtiger]

I went with a 20" (I think) LED bar for the front and 2 4" square pod lights for the rear. All mounted to a piece of angle iron for now until I decide if I want a roof or cab. The nice part of mounting them on the ROPS is the factory headlights on my GC2600 are useless unless the loader is on the ground, or 5ft in the air as it blocks them at travel height. They also provide good light all the way around the tractor.

 

[DaveK OR]

I would avoid the HID lamps... They're certainly bright, and reasonably efficient, but you are looking at fairly expensive bulbs (more so than your existing halogen bulbs) and supporting "electronics" to run them. LED systems are pretty simple these days, and unless you are doing a LOT of night-time work they'll last the life of your tractor once installed.

 

[Fallon]

I would avoid the HID lamps... They're certainly bright, and reasonably efficient, but you are looking at fairly expensive bulbs (more so than your existing halogen bulbs) and supporting "electronics" to run them. LED systems are pretty simple these days, and unless you are doing a LOT of night-time work they'll last the life of your tractor once installed.

Ya, I put HIDs in my truck. Nice, but not good on the bang for your buck compared to LEDs at all these days. The only problem with LEDs is focus & throw so they are legal & don't blind other drivers. Those issues can be overcome, but at a price not in the cheap LED light bar price range.