tlbuser
Veteran Member
john_bud said:
Nope, even easier, but may be more painful to the wallet. Call the local heavy truck tire shop, they'll be happy to come out and swap them around.
Tires Handling heavy tires - relatively heavy.
- Thread starter Reg
- Start date
Nope, even easier, but may be more painful to the wallet. Call the local heavy truck tire shop, they'll be happy to come out and swap them around.
As it turned out the engine crane worked pretty well.
When "offered up" it looked as if the crane's legs would be too close together and too high. As the tractor's rear was jacked up it became apparent that the crane legs would fit around the tire when the tire was an inch or two off the ground. I used a 1 inch strap wrapped around the rim twice and pulled tight on the crane hook. The lifting was done with the floor jack, then the strain was taken with the engine crane while the lug bolts and nuts were removed. A little judicious jiggling with the two jacks and the wheel was off and part hanging, part resting on the crane legs. I only had to move it back a couple of feet to get in with the turf wheel.
Then I fiddled and futzed around trying to move a ~900 lb tire/rim with liquid ballast off the engine crane and onto the pallet forks, basically not fun and not practical alone. Maybe with a helper using guide ropes to pull it around, but not alone.
I finally figured that the hook end of a cargo strap would fit in the drilled holes of the rim, so I tied that to the pallet frame and used that.
The other side went a bit quicker, learning curve, but I was dumb enough to stack both ~900 or so wheels on a pallet and try to move it. My loader is spec'd at 2540 lbs at the pivot point, but I don't know how much the pallet forks weigh or how far out the wheels' center of gravity is from the pivots, more than 2 ft. on a 17.5Lx24 wheel and tire. So, back to the cargo strap hook to take one off, move the other one on the forks, then put the other one back on top.
Doing it the other way around for winter, Bahh ! but at least I will have done it once -albeit the easier way.
When "offered up" it looked as if the crane's legs would be too close together and too high. As the tractor's rear was jacked up it became apparent that the crane legs would fit around the tire when the tire was an inch or two off the ground. I used a 1 inch strap wrapped around the rim twice and pulled tight on the crane hook. The lifting was done with the floor jack, then the strain was taken with the engine crane while the lug bolts and nuts were removed. A little judicious jiggling with the two jacks and the wheel was off and part hanging, part resting on the crane legs. I only had to move it back a couple of feet to get in with the turf wheel.
Then I fiddled and futzed around trying to move a ~900 lb tire/rim with liquid ballast off the engine crane and onto the pallet forks, basically not fun and not practical alone. Maybe with a helper using guide ropes to pull it around, but not alone.
I finally figured that the hook end of a cargo strap would fit in the drilled holes of the rim, so I tied that to the pallet frame and used that.
The other side went a bit quicker, learning curve, but I was dumb enough to stack both ~900 or so wheels on a pallet and try to move it. My loader is spec'd at 2540 lbs at the pivot point, but I don't know how much the pallet forks weigh or how far out the wheels' center of gravity is from the pivots, more than 2 ft. on a 17.5Lx24 wheel and tire. So, back to the cargo strap hook to take one off, move the other one on the forks, then put the other one back on top.
Doing it the other way around for winter, Bahh ! but at least I will have done it once -albeit the easier way.
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
I use an engine crane. Having help is really good, but last week I mounted my loaded R-1,s myself. I have found that rolling the tire to the wheel, before using the crane, (using the crane only to lift tire), worked best for me. After lifting the tire I put trans. in N, and turned wheel to line things up.
Use extreme care when rolling tires. Keep in mind that I am old and weak. At approx 1000 lbs., I roll the tire very slow to maintain control, and make sure that I have room to escape. Should that tire start to fall sideways, there is no way for me to stop it. The best action one can take is to RLH.
Do a search. I did load some pictures when I first started doing this.
Use extreme care when rolling tires. Keep in mind that I am old and weak. At approx 1000 lbs., I roll the tire very slow to maintain control, and make sure that I have room to escape. Should that tire start to fall sideways, there is no way for me to stop it. The best action one can take is to RLH.Do a search. I did load some pictures when I first started doing this.
My plan for putting the loaded R4s back on;
Set up the engine crane on the concrete walkway.
Lift one with the FEL and carry it to the engine crane.
Figure if I brought the right or left one and whether the engine crane needs to be on the other side of where I will back the tractor to.
Lower the wheel to the engine crane, secure it to that before letting go of it with the FEL.
Turn the tractor around, back it up, change the wheel.
Repeat for the other side.
I intend to NOT try rolling these supersize donuts.
I'll struggle with turning the axle and whatever else to get things to line up, but rolling these things is OUT (for me).
Set up the engine crane on the concrete walkway.
Lift one with the FEL and carry it to the engine crane.
Figure if I brought the right or left one and whether the engine crane needs to be on the other side of where I will back the tractor to.
Lower the wheel to the engine crane, secure it to that before letting go of it with the FEL.
Turn the tractor around, back it up, change the wheel.
Repeat for the other side.
I intend to NOT try rolling these supersize donuts.
I'll struggle with turning the axle and whatever else to get things to line up, but rolling these things is OUT (for me).
CurlyDave
Elite Member
My way, you get that AND a second tractor!
With a second tractor there is no need to change tires at all. Just put one set on each tractor.
With a second tractor there is no need to change tires at all. Just put one set on each tractor.
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
CurlyDave said:
I like it!
Rara Avis
Veteran Member
If you aren't going to have the Tire Company do the work...
Front-End Loaders by Westendorf: loader for tractor, shade canopy, wagons, manure & landscaping equipment.
First Click on Bucket Options
Then scroll down and click on Dual Tire Changer
Front-End Loaders by Westendorf: loader for tractor, shade canopy, wagons, manure & landscaping equipment.
First Click on Bucket Options
Then scroll down and click on Dual Tire Changer
PaulChristenson said:If you aren't going to have the Tire Company do the work...
Front-End Loaders by Westendorf: loader for tractor, shade canopy, wagons, manure & landscaping equipment.
First Click on Bucket Options
Then scroll down and click on Dual Tire Changer
Thanks,
Interesting, sorta;
a) It has a 600 lb load limit.
b) Doesn't seem to have any sort of retainer, i.e. nothing to prevent the tire and rim coming off it while fiddling the last fractional inch.
c) Still requires another tractor (pluses and minuses to THAT) or something like an engine crane to hold it.
The Engine crane that I used has a 1/2 ton rating at it's max boom extension, so although I am within 5 or 10% of that - at least I am WITHIN it.
I might try building just the extending arm part of this with the rubber wheel, to use as an accessory to the engine crane.
I would add some sort of a retainer though, even if only a 1 inch strap that would go around the tire and back to the cross bar.
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