Buying Advice Have '99 4300; should I trade in for 3033r?

[melehundele]

Just got an x580 with the pretty sweet equine discount and now my eye is wandering from my CUT.

I have a low hours (maybe 600) 20 YO 4300 hydro with a 430 loader. I bought It new. It is having some issues. The hood is cracked, the plastic in to of the grill is cracked, the hour meter does not display (hence my guess at hours), and the PTO always turns a little (doesn't completely disengage). One front tire is pretty badly dry-rotted so thinking about the others failing is a little worriesome. The tires are loaded; I don't know if that will affect longevity. Also, the bucket now rolls forward when raised for a couple minutes unless pressure is kept in the lever. Not many problems during its lifetime, but the front axle was replaced under warranty and so was the radiator. I don't have any real idea of what it would cost to have all of the things fixed.

The dealer says the 3033r is the comparable model. With a loader, R4s, and the equine association discount it would be $25,764. He suggested $12k on the trade in, so I would be starting over for under $14k.

I don't want new problems, am not "handy," and the warranty years on a new one are attractive.

These days I use it primarily for snow removal and occasional tilling, ~20-30 hours per year. I have a 6-foot Lucknow blower and a 5' Howard rotovator.

Should I make the upgrade (is it an upgrade or a lateral move?)? I don't know enough to know what I don't know....

Thanks in advance!

 

[TractorGuy]

Sounds like a pretty fair trade in deal. New is always nice!

That said I can't afford anything like that and I am mechanically inclined so I usually try to keep all my old stuff fixed as it breaks.

 

[melehundele]

Thanks, it would be nice, probably... I guess I am wondering if there is something about the new ones that is less desirable than the 4300 or any reason, besides the cash, to not do it.

Do you think I am right to be suspicious that bigger problems maybe on the way with the 20YO tractor? Dry rot on the tires is definitely an eventuality...

Any clue on the cost to fix up the 4300 with all of those little pesky things? Without really knowing anything about it, I figured probably $5-8k to fix those issues; I was told the PTO would require splitting, and think the labor will be the biggest part of most of those repairs. And the higher the repairs, the greater motivation to make the jump.

 

[Roadworthy]

Given the age of the old tractor I'd probably do the trade if it was me - if only due to continued parts availability for the old tractor. The PTO may be a non issue. Can you easily stop it or is it actually engaged? The PTO on my old tractor runs all the time - even when not engaged. But it's not really running, I can stop it with my hand when connecting to it. I suspect it's just the fluid moving in the transmission causing it to move. As far as the new tractor, if it's over 25 horsepower or so it will have Tier 4 emissions stuff added. this is probably in the form of a diesel particulate filter. Ask owners of that brand and model of tractor for horror stories. Some perform flawlessly while others do not. If you have to replace one in the future figure $2000 to $3000 worst case.

 

[melehundele]

The PTO may be a non issue. Can you easily stop it or is it actually engaged? The PTO on my old tractor runs all the time - even when not engaged. But it's not really running, I can stop it with my hand when connecting to it. I suspect it's just the fluid moving in the transmission causing it to move.

Wow, I have never tried to grab it to stop it. Sometimes it turns a little, slowly, but other times quite fast. I used to be able to sometimes get it to quit if I firmly pulled the engagement lever back again, but not lately. I have a tiller or a blower on at all times, and I don't like having this issue when my dog running in the yard; it turns fast enough often enough that I would fear injury. But it isn't engaged to the extent that the tractor won't start.

As far as the new tractor, if it's over 25 horsepower or so it will have Tier 4 emissions stuff added. this is probably in the form of a diesel particulate filter. Ask owners of that brand and model of tractor for horror stories. Some perform flawlessly while others do not. If you have to replace one in the future figure $2000 to $3000 worst case.

Ew, yuck. The dealer kind of mentioned this set up as a feature, haha. He said no smoke when you start it up in your barn or garage, and that it has a "reburn muffler." How fast do these issues arise (i.e., within warranty years, maybe?)

 

[goeduck]

For you it might make the most sense to do the upgrade. For me, I would stick to the old tractor. I cannot see your tires but the rubber you see is not what holds the air in or carries the load. The hour meter can be replaced and some of the other stuff I would leave be. But that is me and I fix old stuff rather than buy new. The bucket rolling is an odd one. It just happens on startup? Good lick with your new tractor.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I'd say the 12K trade in is a fantastic offer. Your tractor is 20 years old. Yes, one can piddle and replace things as they break, but things will start breaking sooner. Tires are expensive, aftermarket hood plastic is hundreds of dollars, every piece of rubber or plastic is 20 years old. But alas, all things included, it'd be hard to say whether I'd be fixing up the old one myself and keep it going.

My 4310 is right behind you, but it's been such a dependable machine.

 

[beenthere]

In my opinion, I'd hang onto the 4300 as long as possible. They are a great running tractor, and come without the computer and electronics that followed.

And for me, the best part is the hood and side panels instead of the one-piece hood that is less of a convenience.

I almost traded up and glad I didn't.

You may have a PTO brake problem, but the slow moving PTO shaft is not a problem. (in my opinion) But proceed as you wish.