Heater Hoses in tractor Cab ?????

[mcd176]

GE222,

Yes I have a cabin air filter and fresh air ducts in my top, it will draw throught the rear of the top and into the heater body.

-Mike

 

[KennyV]

Hello Mike,
What you are doing is the way a factory cab runs the heat and A/C lines. Do fab them using copper, aluminum or steel, you do not want to take everything apart to replace hose when they need replacing. Insulate supply side where practical, don't worry too much where you can not .The final hookups at heater core and engine need to be done with short easy to change hoses and don't forget to place a water shut off in your hot water supply line.
In the winter I run my heat ans A/C to control the humidity inside the cab on my L4200... it is soooooo nice. Life in a cab... KennyV
You are coming along great.

 

[brewdog]

I ran my heater hoses inside the Sims cab I bought. They work fine and the heater will drive you out the cab.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks JohnDeere3720

The project is coming along nicely, I hope to have the cab watertite in a few weeks.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks KennyV and brewdog, your info just helped me alot, I will be posting some more pics in the next few days

-Mike

 

[PILOON]

Thanks for the info guys, I do agree after thinking about it I should run the lines in the cab with copper, however where can I find 1/2 to 5/8 copper fittings, my heater core is 5/8" and tee fittings in my radiator hoses are 5/8" if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

-Mike

The OD of 1/2" copper pipe is actually 5/8", so 5/8" rad hose will make a good coupling.
I used jubilee clamps (screw tighten hose clamps).

Clamp the copper piping to the framework to prevent movement and use rad hose as your flexible joints as there will always be some movement (cab mounting, engine vibration etc).
Rad hose is the way to go as it is designed to be oil and heat resistant also the PSI's are relatively low, eg about 15 PSI max.

Also copper plumbing (sold by the foot) is much cheaper than rad hose (sold by the inch).
I added the slip on foam plumbing insulation sleeves on my copper runs to maximize heat transfer.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Hello everyone - I have a kubota L4330 tractor with a Curtis cab that I have made fit but is not meant for this tractor. I currently have an electric heater but it does not really warm the can like I would like so I would like to install a coolant heater. The cab is designed for a heater near the left Lower leg so I will use this location

My question - where do I tap for the coolant (in and out) and what circulates the coolant? The engine water pump?

I have seen coolant cab heaters on eBay with a shut off valves which looks to satisfy my needs

Thanks in advance to your answers

 

[tvman]

Hi nvr, I also have a 4330 with the curtis cab. I added their heater later on and it does a great job warming the inside. I have been trying to find my installation manual for the heater with no luck yet.

I do recall that I had to cut a line and add 2 hoses to the heater coil. There were 2 holes near the bottom of the cab to route these through.

You are right about the water pump providing the circulation needed.Of course you will also need to run a switched 12volt line to the blower motor. I also added a bypass valve inside the cab for summer tractor usage without heat.

I can play in the coldest weather without a coat or gloves If I can find the manual I will repost.

 

[jb62901]

Where I worked years age, we made up 20 of these for Harley oil coolers. Used one for my heater in the cab w/ 4" fan behind it. It won't run you out of the cab but sure takes the chill off.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Tvman - can you send me a picture of where you tapped into the supply / return for the cab heater ? I checked out my tractor and found a pipe plug near the thermostat. I am assuming this would be after the pump. I could not find a return, I assume I would have to add a fitting in the lower radiator hose.

If anyone has an L 30 series tractor with a coolant heater, I would really like to see how you plumbed it. Thanks