Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135

   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I bought a MF 135 and want to use the auxillary hydralics. My valve is under the seat and has a handle which can be rotated from forwards on the tractor and moved 180 degrees to pointing backwards.
I am unsure of which way to move the handle to use the auxillary. I have moved this in conjunction with moving the 3 point handles.
When I attached my log splitter to it. Nothing seems to work. When I rotate the handle straight up and move 3 point handles back, nothing happens. I can walk back and lift the splitter and it will raise.
Any Ideas? I have not found the combination to make the 3 point or the auxillary valves work. I realize that both of these can't work at the same time and that is no problem. I would just be happy if either one worked seperately.

My MF135 has the auxilary valve also, and I don't know a lot about it, but I do know that it won't do anything if the original 3 point lift is down all the way. It almost seems like the original lift control acts as a flow control or something. I leave mine full up all the time. On my auxilary valve, the left is my 3 point lift and the right is (was) for the auxilary outputs, I have them plugged right now.

Not sure I helped, but at least shared my experience.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135 #12  
I have a 1973 Massey Ferguson 135 Diesel that is in pretty sad shape. It runs fine, smokes under load (kinda expected I guess), and has a few leaks. But for about $1000 I think I did pretty good.

$1000 for a running Massey Ferguson 135 tractor is a steal, especially for a diesel. Nice find.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135 #13  
Just joined today. I have a 1973 Massey Ferguson 135 Diesel that is in pretty sad shape. It runs fine, smokes under load (kinda expected I guess), and has a few leaks. But for about $1000 I think I did pretty good.:

You did great. An engine rebuild of your own would run in the ~$1K range and a professional rebuild would be in the ~$3.5K range. Even factoring in that and if the rest of the tractor is in good shape, try and find one of equal quality for what you would have into it. Once you have the old girl back on her feet, you will be impressed for years.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135 #14  
Welcome. It's always good to see a another member from our great state.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks guys. I actually bought the tractor from my brother, he had just bought it and was using a bush hog with it when he thought he heard it knocking. He started disassembling it (mainly just sheet metal) when I bought it from him for $800. Without cranking it myself, I went on his word that there was a problem in the bottom end. So i removed the front end and dropped the pan, and replaced the main rod bearings after checking tolerances. I was amazed at how clean everything was inside the engine. I put it back together, fired it up when he was there, and at high rpm it had the same noise. I personally think it is just a "diesel knock" that we aren't used to hearing because it is a naturally aspirated diesel engine. I've also heard that if there is any build up on the top of the pistons that they can make this noise from tapping on the head because of such tight clearances. At any rate, I've ran it numerous hours with no issues and don't really plan on an engine rebuild until something else happens.

This is my first tractor by the way, and I love it! Just gotta get it in a little better shape and get some attachments to use with it.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135 #16  
Thanks guys. I actually bought the tractor from my brother, he had just bought it and was using a bush hog with it when he thought he heard it knocking. He started disassembling it (mainly just sheet metal) when I bought it from him for $800. Without cranking it myself, I went on his word that there was a problem in the bottom end. So i removed the front end and dropped the pan, and replaced the main rod bearings after checking tolerances. I was amazed at how clean everything was inside the engine. I put it back together, fired it up when he was there, and at high rpm it had the same noise. I personally think it is just a "diesel knock" that we aren't used to hearing because it is a naturally aspirated diesel engine. I've also heard that if there is any build up on the top of the pistons that they can make this noise from tapping on the head because of such tight clearances. At any rate, I've ran it numerous hours with no issues and don't really plan on an engine rebuild until something else happens.

This is my first tractor by the way, and I love it! Just gotta get it in a little better shape and get some attachments to use with it.

It could be your draft control set improperly. Countinuos pumping will introduce a knocking noise.
 
   / Hello from Mississippi / '73 MF135 #17  
Thanks guys. I actually bought the tractor from my brother, he had just bought it and was using a bush hog with it when he thought he heard it knocking. He started disassembling it (mainly just sheet metal) when I bought it from him for $800. Without cranking it myself, I went on his word that there was a problem in the bottom end. So i removed the front end and dropped the pan, and replaced the main rod bearings after checking tolerances. I was amazed at how clean everything was inside the engine. I put it back together, fired it up when he was there, and at high rpm it had the same noise. I personally think it is just a "diesel knock" that we aren't used to hearing because it is a naturally aspirated diesel engine. I've also heard that if there is any build up on the top of the pistons that they can make this noise from tapping on the head because of such tight clearances. At any rate, I've ran it numerous hours with no issues and don't really plan on an engine rebuild until something else happens.

This is my first tractor by the way, and I love it! Just gotta get it in a little better shape and get some attachments to use with it.

It's possible that the "diesel knock" could be from carbon buildup on the pistons, valves, or cylinder head, but I agree that it's probably just a normal sound the engine makes. The following video is of a running Massey Ferguson tractor equipped with a Perkins AD3.152 diesel engine. The video has good sound so you should be able to listen to it and determine if the sound is normal or not.

 
 
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