Help Choosing Multi Use tractor....

[Johndeere3720]

Just to let you know, the 3x20 and 4x20 series tractors are all hydro except the 3005 and 4005. I would look at the 4120 and 4320, they sound like what you need. The 4105 is an economy model so it isnt as fancy as the 4120 or the 4320. Tire wise, I would go with Ag, R1 tires for your application. For grading that track, I learned that the Arenavator brand will work perfectly by tilling the track and crushing dirt clods. Another tractor I would look at is the 3720, it gives you 44 horse power and isnt as wide as the 4x20 series tractors. It may not lift as much loader wise but it would work great in those rows.

 

[hilld]

I think the 4x20 tractors would be the best choice, the only concern I would have is running the tiller on the track as the track is probably not level in a lot of places and could have holes in it from spinning dirt bike tires, so stability could be a slight problem. You didn't say where you are at, if you are in hot/dry region, you might want to look into a cab tractor as a lot of dust will be kicked up tilling that entire track if it is dry outside.

Good luck in your quest.

Derek

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Look at the 4120/4720 series. You'll want a 6' tiller to do a wide MX track. You'll need good power to turn it. The rest of your chores could be done with the 3520/3720

Get a disc or plow to help break up the dirt the 1st time. Old hard clay is tough the first time you try to upset it. Many would use a plow, then disk, then tiller to get the soil loose about 6-8" deep. Best if you wait for a good soaking rain and then 2-3 days after that to get with it.

Good luck.

 

[dave1949]

Have you checked out the narrow width compact tractors for vineyards? I know NH has those, probably others brands too.

How about two tractors, a larger, used ag tractor with some life left in it plus a small new tractor for your veggie/flower/greenhouse operations? That would give you some backup in case you have a breakdown just when your crops need it most.

 

[e.myers]

Thanks everyone for the replies. It's ALL helping.

Additional info....
I'm in South Carolina. Very Hot. Land is combination of red clay and sand. I'd love to have a cab, just don't think I can justify the expense right now. That being said, I'll be in it in the hot summer AND the winter. Just don't know if I can swing it.

Wonder how much a skid steer would cost additional to get a conditioned cab vs a tractor?

Yeah, I kind of knew going in that the 4105 is an "economy" model of sorts. Made by Yanmar. Not by John Deere I think. Not that that's necessarily an indication of quality

Anyone know the limitations of a skid steer or track loader vs a tractor for my application. Still definitely leaning towards a tractor, But I'm going to call monday for some pricing just for kicks.

4120 and 4130 vs the 4105 are not out of the realm of possibilities. Just don't want to buy more tractor than I need. I take it that nobody is recommending that I purchase anything less than the 4105? One person mentioned 35 horse might do what I need. Based on how the conversation is going, does anyone see a 35 horse tractor in my future?

Looked at 3720. Looks to be Yanmar also. Can someone please describe the differences between the 3000 series tractors and the 4000?
Then the difference between the 44 horse 3720 vs say the 4120. I really don't have a clue as to what the differences are that are gonna mean anything to me down the road.

Interesting that almost everyone here is familiar with the John Deere product Line, and that no one is recommending other brands other than the Kubota & Mahindra (which is not local for me). Any particular reason for this? I mean I figured someone would be saying look at x brand and compare etc.

OK. I'm hearing that the tiller is going to take a lot of time, and may not be appropriate for the application. A track we like runs a tiller over certain areas and it looked like the tool to have. I do see your points however. FWIW, the jumps/whoops etc won't be tilled. Only relatively flat areas (straights) and corners. So I won't technically be tilling the whole 1 mile track. Yeah, there are ruts in the straights, but the ruts are actually desirable and I don't ALWAYS want to cover them up. The most desirable situation is to be able to just kind of skim the surface of the corners at times kind of shaving off the top of the ruts but leaving them there. Ruts are good, but they can get too deep. They also need to be eliminated sometimes so you can work on different lines.

That arenavator looks interesting. I take it that I can use/pull it faster than the tiller? Can get it wider also? Any reason this could not be used for garden areas also? Track doesn't need to be perfectly level. What would happen if I removed the bar? How deep will the shanks penetrate? Could I use this prior to discing up the area that I'm having cleared? How does this leave the surface compared to a tiller? Would the 4105 pull one of the wider ones? Will the roller actually break up clay clods?

Any more help left?

 

[e.myers]

Dave/Others-
I was posting when you were.
I actually have an old Larger Case tractor (definitely more HP than the tractors we're talking about (I think), that I could probably get running right (lift hydraulics are messed up, tires need replacing and a bunch of other stuff) for I'm thinking around 5000.00. Just thought money might be better spent on a new one. Biggest obstacle to using the old tractor is that it doesn't have a front end loader. I wonder if I could get one put on aftermarket. I feel certain all the hydraulics are there. But let's say that a FEL cost 6 grand plus 5 grand I'm at 11 grand getting the tractor running. That's still a good bit less than half price.

Maybe I should consider it, assuming a FEL could be put on it.

What do you think?

 

[LBrown59]

This is how I see the tractor being used.
1. Rotary tiller a couple times a week to groom the track deep (probably 4 hours or so per week) track will be max 1 mile long and ballpark 15 feet wide.
2. Moving dirt. Contractor is to BURY all stumps removed, (in trenches he digs) below the ground surface. These trenches will be basically winrows below the ground, but with
*dirt taken out of the trenches and put back on top in mounds to settle as it may. This will be my source of dirt (clay primarily) for jumps etc, so it will get moved over time, but no real hurry. Truthfully, for the near future a turn track (no jumps) is acceptable.

*How do you plan on keeping The dirt from being taken over by weeds trees and brush?

 

[e.myers]

Good Question. I thought about that briefly then decided I couldn't worry about it at this point. In case you can't tell, I have a tendency to overthink things (it's actually what I get paid to do... well sort of anyway). Anyway, my life has been plagued by people telling me to "Just do it". So, that's another one of those instances where I decided to "just do it". Now you come along and tell me, "Eddie, you really need to think about this so you won't be kicking yourself later". So who do I listen to, you, my wife, my friends, my mother and father in law, the people I design for?

Just kidding of course, but yes, I'm sure it's a legitimate question. Primarily the reason that I'm burying the stumps/brush is because I drive down the road everyday, past these winrows of stumps in this huge field that was cut and piled up about a year ago, that now has trees regrowing in it. My thinking was, bury the stumps to eliminate the problem and I don't have to pay someone to burn or haul it off. Since I need the dirt anyway and don't care that there are hills on the property..... Anyway, sounds like a good idea to me. I guess I figured there would be weeds on the hills but not much since it will be clay.

I THINK that ultimately, the only places that will have the hills (after I "cut and fill" etc) will be on the track. BUT, this is going to take time moving all the dirt.

So, is this a bad idea? I'm really interested in your comments. The process starts TOMORROW! What would you do?

FWIW, I'm off and on about maybe getting some goats....

 

[datanull]

Interesting that almost everyone here is familiar with the John Deere product Line, and that no one is recommending other brands other than the Kubota & Mahindra (which is not local for me). Any particular reason for this? I mean I figured someone would be saying look at x brand and compare etc.

Any more help left?

I think brand is relatively unimportant. What dealers do you have near by? Once you figure out about what size and features you need. Get the best deal from the best dealer, not necessarily the cheapest price. Will you be able to get it back to the dealer if there is a problem or will they come out to your place? Are the open when you need them? Is the owner will to give you his cell number?

 

[kenstrac]

I don't think a skid steer would serve you well have you ever tried to hook up chains to remove logs or unload a few things from a pallet moving the restraint out of the way crawling out of cab jumping over loader, it gets old awful fast.
if you pull something with the loader up a few feet the short wheelbase make it pretty tipsy.
AS far as buying a tractor to match the crops that you don't have as of present you will never have the right tractor. Plant the crops to match the tractor using standard attachments (row widths) even in the vineyard so you can get a standard tractor through.
I also recommend getting a tractor with a cab so if you have to spray you will have some protection.
IMO i would get a tractor of about 45-65 HP that would give you good ground clearance to cultivate and enough weight to lift a 1 ton pallet without having to play games of putting Xtra ballast to safely move the load. And R1 tires