Help me pick the right trailer

[kevinj]

Had my 7000 lb tandem axle landscaping trailer officially weighed at the station. It has brakes on all four wheels and tipped the scales at 1,760 lbs.

Maybe for the trailer weight discussion we need to be clear on trailer types. Mine is a flat auto type which weighs more than the landscaper type. I do not know what the H&H trailers being discussed are. I find the auto haulers a bit better for tractors as they have stow away ramps and a flat deck without the side rail supports.

 

[Highbeam]

Holy smokes, nearly 5000$ US for a 7000# car hauler? There is a huge amount of money to be saved, like 3000$, by taking a nice vacation and driving down to the south central US where these cheap trailers come from. I really like my trailer and it was about 3000$ after all the license and tax here in the NW corner of the US. Most 7000 lb haulers were about 2000$. Excellent opportunity for a road trip!

My 10k rated trailer is built a good bit stouter than a 7000 lb model but tips the scales at 2500 lbs including the 250 lbs of tongue weight.

 

[jayhaitch]

The Canuck buck rose from ~63cents to 90 cents US over the last few years. I was hoping to see Canadian prices get closer to US prices, but this has only happened for some merchandise. I know we have a smaller population in a big country, so economies of scale are less. I don't expect our prices to be only 10% more than US prices based on 90 cent dollars. But $3000?!!!!!!

How are prices in the northern US? We go to North Dakota and Minnesota every year or two, so this would be closer and convenient. I've travelled around Arizona and Texas a bit, and spent some time in Charlottesville Virginia, besides big city conferences, so it would be a good excuse to travel some more and save $ on the trailer.

I'll call some US H&H dealers and get some prices. Any recommendations?

 

[Highbeam]

"I don't expect our prices to be only 10% more than US prices based on 90 cent dollars. But $3000?!!!!!!"

I do. I expect that to buy a bottle of beer will cost 10% more in canuck dollars. I don't understand why I should get more or less than a dollars worth of beer for a dollar nomatter where I am (after the current conversion to the right country's dollar). The only reason this shouldn't hold true is if the value of one of our dollars is volatile and changes a lot so the sellers can't adjust their beer prices in time. That being said, if for some reason you can stretch your dollar here in the US then take advantage of the situation.

Most of the big trailer manufacturers have websites with a "find a dealer" feature. I really really like my PJ trailer made in Oklahoma and sold here through a local dealer that buys them by the truckload. The pictured trailer that I own was only about 3000$ and is substantially more robust than a 7000# model. Heck, I would be willing to drive a trailer to a meeting place in the US and meet you there for an appropriate cut of the proceeds.

 

[roxynoodle]

I would definitely consider a road trip. $5000 is too much for that kind of trailer.

 

[jayhaitch]

Another local dealer sells PJ trailers. I looked at them before, but each one was made in Mexico. Better than China, but I prefer to buy Canadian/US made stuff while I can, before all our manufacturing goes elsewhere

On the PJ website, their utility trailers all have open framed sides, and I'm looking for a solid side one to haul soil, sand, etc. I don't really need a car carrier type trailer, but the slide under loading ramps are a nice idea. The Mrs. doesn't want a huge trailer either, so I'm trying to find the middle ground between very useful but huge, vs really tiny and useless. I hope I find it, without a huge pricetag......

I'll definitely call some North Dakota/Minnesota H&H dealers and get prices from them. Might even give me leverage with my local dealer.

Thanks for all your tips.

 

[roxynoodle]

I put sides on my utility trailer for the same reasons you want them. It cost me about $120 in lumber and hardware.

 

[roxynoodle]

Sorry, didn't mean to put that giant picture in there. Somehow I did the link to the attachment before.

 

[Jarrett]

RayH: Tell me more about Prodigy brake controllers. You mean I don't have to have a hard wired permanently mounted ugly knee whacking box sticking under the dash? How do these get wired? You mean wires from the electrical connector get run under the car, or inside the car? How does the Prodigy controller mount to be removable? It's not so much the cost but more the hassle factor, and the ugly/knee whacking/drilling holes in the new car reasons I was wanting surge brakes.

In my Dad's truck we just laid the brake controller on the floorboard of the truck, on the center hump. It never went anywhere, the carpet and fairly short wire held it in place good. He didn't want to drill any holes anywhere to mount it and it worked out just fine. I plan to do the same thing when I get a controller (when I get a trailer). I won't be using it much and that way I can just disconnect it and store it away when not needed. This may not work well with the inertia controllers though (I don't really understand how those work).

 

[Lazy]

Hi
wouldn't adding all that wood decrease the weight capacity of the trailer? looks like at least a 1000#'s of wood.

Charlie.