Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430

   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430 #11  
Available from Deere... AM116154

You can look these parts up too by going to jdparts.. see reply #4
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I ordered a cylinder. I'm not too happy to see that they are made so you can't rebuild them easily. This thing cost $9200 over 25 years ago, so it's not unreasonable to expect real hydraulic cylinders.

I'm going to keep the old one and fiddle with it. Ordinarily, I have machine tools at my disposal, but I have not moved them from my old location yet. When they get here, I'm going to see if there are ways to avoid buying new cylinders in the future.
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430 #13  
I ordered a cylinder. I'm not too happy to see that they are made so you can't rebuild them easily. This thing cost $9200 over 25 years ago, so it's not unreasonable to expect real hydraulic cylinders.

I'm going to keep the old one and fiddle with it. Ordinarily, I have machine tools at my disposal, but I have not moved them from my old location yet. When they get here, I'm going to see if there are ways to avoid buying new cylinders in the future.

Well that is not good news. Like some one once said, "If man made it, man can repair it" So I would give it a try if it was mine.

Richard
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#14  
It appears that the ends of the hydraulic cylinder are welded on, so in order to fix it, you would have to cut them off, fabricate new ones, thread them, and thread the cylinder body. It might be easier to modify a cylinder from Surplus Center.
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The new cylinder is here. It looks like you just pull the old one, remove the fluid connector, install the new one, and screw the connector in.

Problem: how do I get fluid into the new cylinder? I'm sure it's full of air, and there is only one opening in it.

Well, I'm wrong. Looks like it has two. So I just hook it up and work it until the air goes out?
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430 #16  
So I just hook it up and work it until the air goes out?

Yup, correct.
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
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#17  
Thanks again.
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I got the old cylinder disconnected from the pins that anchor it to the tractor, and I removed the rear oil fitting. Problem: the front oil fitting is very stubborn, and it's in a place where I can't get good leverage on it. I tried to remove the upper deck of the mower, but it appears that you have to remove two control levers and a bunch of other stuff. I am thinking John Deere must have had an easier plan of attack.

Does anyone here have a clue for me?

If I could get at the front end of the hydraulic hose, maybe I could detach it instead of the rear end (cylinder end).
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well, I found a video of a guy removing the fender deck from a 430. The fuel tank would still be in the way, but hopefully that will not be hard to move.
 
   / Help With Leaking PTO Seal on John Deere 430
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Man, what a nightmare this turned out to be. Removing the fender deck is supposed to be a 5-minute job. Took me more like 2 hours, not including research. When I got it off, and I moved the fuel tank out of the way, I had very poor access to the cylinder and hoses, but it was enough to make the job possible.

To get the deck off my 430, you have to remove the shift lever in the floor. The engineering is unbelievably stupid. The shift knob protrudes through a small hole too narrow for a wrench, and the hex on the lever is BELOW the deck. I had to turn it about a tenth of a turn at a time. The person who designed this must have been trying to get fired, because no one can be that dumb and still breathe. I feel like welding a T-handle to it. I slathered the nut and threads with anti-seize, and I left the lever finger-tight so I would be able to get it off next time.

The annoying seat switch (bypassed with a cable tie) has a huge connector on it, and you have to feed it through a tiny hole in the deck with one hand, while holding the deck up with the other. Otherwise, the switch wires tie the deck to the tractor.

A good engineer would have used a boat-type kill switch that attaches to a cord and bracelet. Before I killed the switch, I had to restart the tractor every time I got off to pick up a stick.

The taillight lamps have to be pulled out of their housings in order to remove the deck. Pushing them back in is nearly impossible. I greased them, and I still had to wrestle with each one for over 5 minutes. For $9200, Deere could have put disconnects in the wires, or they could have used sockets that screw in, like, oh, every major vehicle manufacturer.

I don't know why my lawnmower needs taillights anyway.

The deck and seat must weigh 60 pounds, and when you lift the assembly, you have zero leverage. Like lifting an ironing board with a fat child sitting on the far end. It's a wonder I managed it.

The new cylinder is in, however. Hope it lasts a while.

05 24 19 John Deer Tractor partially dismantled small.jpg
 
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