Help with SPECIFICS of the plan for 12' x 16' Horse Run-In shed...

[motreefarmer]

We have had this shed so long now that I forgot what it looked like. I mentioned that it had a lean-to roof. Obviuosly it doesn't. It has more than one post in the front. It's not anchored to the ground (although it should be) and survived 84 MPH winds. When we moved 5 years ago we paid to have this shed moved with us. It's extremely heavy and sturdy.

As a retired builder, I built a lot of pole sheds (& barns) over the years. If you are going to use it for livestock, use 5x5 or 6x6 posts. 4x4 posts are too small to use for livestock buildings. They can't stand up to the pressure of a animal rubbing against them. Opening size no less than 10 ft. Post spacing on the rest of the walls 8 ft. Header size- up to 10 ft at least use two (2) 2x8's. Any opening wider than that - two (2) 2x10's or 2x12's (depending on there you live and how much snow you get.) Back walls - no less than 8 ft. Front wall- at least 12 ft. This would give you a 3/12 pitch roof. Steep enough that snow would slide off.
The problem I've seen with the shed 'kits' is that you get #3 or lesser grade lumber and not quite enough lumber to do the job right. This comes from people who brought the kits and built the shed themselves.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Hi there MFW.
I built this 20x28 ft equipment shed a few years ago. There might be something you can use for your project.

Conventional pole shed construction. Height: 8ft in rear, 9 ft in front. The large beams are doubled 2x12s and 2x10s nailed and glued. Piers are 18"x18"x18" concrete. Metal sides and roof are 28 gauge R-panel from Home Depot.

Good luck.

Flusher,

I like that! I want to build something almost exactly like that for my tractor AFTER I build this run-in & fence, and remod the attic in some fashion, and maybe after I build a spot for my Harleys??? rolleyes: I know, too many projects...).

Be well,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

As a retired builder, I built a lot of pole sheds (& barns) over the years. If you are going to use it for livestock, use 5x5 or 6x6 posts. 4x4 posts are too small to use for livestock buildings. They can't stand up to the pressure of a animal rubbing against them. Opening size no less than 10 ft. Post spacing on the rest of the walls 8 ft. Header size- up to 10 ft at least use two (2) 2x8's. Any opening wider than that - two (2) 2x10's or 2x12's (depending on there you live and how much snow you get.) Back walls - no less than 8 ft. Front wall- at least 12 ft. This would give you a 3/12 pitch roof. Steep enough that snow would slide off.
The problem I've seen with the shed 'kits' is that you get #3 or lesser grade lumber and not quite enough lumber to do the job right. This comes from people who brought the kits and built the shed themselves.

MoTreeFarmer,

I'm looking at a 12' span, and the shed will be 16' deep, so I would have 3, front, middle, and rear 8' spacing.

That means two 2x10's for each, and do I nail them together into a 4x10, or do I put one on each side of the 5x5 or 6x6PT Post?

What do I run for purlins?

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

You guys are awesome and while on the plane Monday I got a good start on drawing out plans for the run-in shed.

I have some new questions...

Right now if I have an 8' back height, and a 3/12 pitch, the front will be approx 12', that seems REALLY high... If I put a ridgeline in towards the front, I will be forced to build my own trusses, right?

Given 12' width, can I afford to go to an 8' opening, allowing 2 side walls on the front at 2' wide each.

I assume the rafters (two 2x10's , nailed together) must go directly on top of the post, so I need to cut the posts down to allow for the height of the rafters and purlins?

How big to make the purlins given a 2' spacing? 2x2 or 2x4 on end?

Should I plan for the roof to overhang on the front and back? How much? How about the sides?

I am planning to set the poles 3' deep, I am looking for 5x5 posts, given doubled 2x10 rafters, do I need a post in the middle of the middle an front? Given a post in the middle of the rear, I can reduce the rafter size, right?

I'm sure I have more stoopid n00b questions...

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[motreefarmer]

MoTreeFarmer,

I'm looking at a 12' span, and the shed will be 16' deep, so I would have 3, front, middle, and rear 8' spacing.

That means two 2x10's for each, and do I nail them together into a 4x10, or do I put one on each side of the 5x5 or 6x6PT Post?

What do I run for purlins?

Thanks in advance,
David

David, I always used 2x10's ( one on each side) for the headers for door opening spans up to 16'. Any wider size opening, 2x12's or LVL beams.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

David, I always used 2x10's ( one on each side) for the headers for door opening spans up to 16'. Any wider size opening, 2x12's or LVL beams.

Thank you.

Next question... Given that I put one 2x10 on each side of the 5x5 post, I need to make sure they match up to the pitch of the roof, right, so if I'm doing a 3/12 pitch, I need to cut the post and one board will be higher than the other, to ensure contact with the purlins and support for the load of the roof.

The 2x10s are the HEADERS, not Rafters as I called them... Got it.

Right?

(I hope I am making sense...):confused2:

David

 

[motreefarmer]

When I was doing the rafters, I would cut the tops & bottoms of the rafters like a person would cut one for a house. If this is something that you don't want to do, I suggest putting the 2x10's on the outside of the posts, set a rafter by each of the posts, then put the 2x10's on the inside, pushing them up to the bottom of the rafter and nailing them there. Then you can finish putting up the rest of the rafters and cut the top of the post off flush with the top of the rafter. (I used a chain saw for this, also cut the post with a slope away from the post). If you don't have a chain saw, you can use a sawzall (recepticating saw). It's slower but you have more control.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

When I was doing the rafters, I would cut the tops & bottoms of the rafters like a person would cut one for a house. If this is something that you don't want to do, I suggest putting the 2x10's on the outside of the posts, set a rafter by each of the posts, then put the 2x10's on the inside, pushing them up to the bottom of the rafter and nailing them there. Then you can finish putting up the rest of the rafters and cut the top of the post off flush with the top of the rafter. (I used a chain saw for this, also cut the post with a slope away from the post). If you don't have a chain saw, you can use a sawzall (recepticating saw). It's slower but you have more control.

I think I am following you. I won't be using my 20" stihl to trim boards I hope...

I need HEADERS to cross the span and they hold up the RAFTERS which will run across the 3 HEADERS. On top of the RAFTERS I will need PURLINS to attach the metal roofing too. In the end I will have a grid, all held up by the HEADERS supported by the poles...

Right?

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

My concern about notching the rafters to fit on the headers was that might weaken them, make them subject to splitting?

My pencil drawing makes me think I do not need Purlins, I can attach metal roofing straight to the rafters? Is that wrong?

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Hi there MFW.
I built this 20x28 ft equipment shed a few years ago. There might be something you can use for your project.

View attachment 298549

Conventional pole shed construction. Height: 8ft in rear, 9 ft in front. The large beams are doubled 2x12s and 2x10s nailed and glued. Piers are 18"x18"x18" concrete. Metal sides and roof are 28 gauge R-panel from Home Depot.

Good luck.

Flusher,

Pic 2 (should be the one I kept above) seems to show headers, rafters, and purlins.

Am I looking at it correctly?

Thanks,
David