It's after the fact but if that was mine, I would have given it a bath before doing anything simply because of all the filth falling into the cavities and causing accelerated wear inside.
You can weld that fork but you have to bevel the sides on both parts before welding it and multi pass (root pass and finish pass) the welds and preferably use a MIG with solid wire and shielding gas so long as the fork is cast steel.
If it's cast iron, all bets are off. It's possible to join cast iron parts but they have to be high temperature brazed, not welded
If you do weld it, you need to clamp it down securely and root pass one side and flip it and root pass the other side, then flip it again and finish pass and repeat and then grind off the excess welds to make the part level on both sides again.. If you aren't a competent welder with the proper equipment, send it to a weld shop and have them do it.
Looking at the part, it could be cast iron or cast steel and the only way to determine that would be to spark test it and why it broke like it did, there has to be mitigating circumstances like did you attempt to force it into gear or is the clearance insufficient to allow free movement?
Shift forks just don't break because, there has to be a reason why it failed in the first place. Just replacing it or welding it won't remedy the issue until you determine why it broke in the first place.
if it was mine and you want to repair it, I'd take it to a competent welding shop and have them do it. I do that sort of thing here all the time but I don't do it for free and neither will they (welding shop).
My 2 cents for what it's worth.
and the shop. It will stop on a dime now load in the bucket or not! Do you know how it or caused it to break? Think I would make sure there not another problem that caused it.