Hitch on your backhoe

   / Hitch on your backhoe #11  
with the stress involved with moving a loaded trailer I would think you would want to reconsider your trailer, get a wagon style trailer so all you are doing is pulling the weight of the load. then you could pull the weight fromt the draw bar and not your hoe. design build a modified draw bar that is longer and possibly has a sleve to achieve your goal. I am about to do 100's of foot of french drain and none of the dirt is going back in the hole so this topic is on my mind right now also
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #12  
I think I'd just mount a hitch on either the front loader bucket, or some other carrier on the loader end. Then, just drive backwards while pulling the trailer.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #13  
Kays Supply ; What is that called.... a tracked dump box ? Sure looks neat. How much does it haul and is it fairly fast ? Who builds them ?

GuglioLS ; I knew there was a reason I bought a Bradco Back hoe....... but it didn't come with the paint brush.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well my thought was that when you are using the back hoe for what it is intended that you are putting a stress on the back of the tractor and if it can handle that then pulling a trailor load of rock and gravel short distances like 1000 feet should not matter but I suppose the stabilizers when in use reduce some of the stress as they are intended to.

I suppose I can still make one for handling the trailor empty and when it is loaded then use a hitch on the front end loader for moving it when it is loaded as the front end is meant for handling loads and moving them .This way I could still use the loader for dumping the load. All I have to do is make up a hitch to mount to the bucket in front for when hooking the trailor onto the tractor. This would also make it easier for me when directly the load of gravel into a certain place rather than backing into the site I can drive front on into the site.


Same principle as a forklift but with the ball mounted onto the lip of the loader in the center. My intentions was that I could hall the trailor behind the tractor and leave it connected but at an angle to the back hoe so when I was digging I could dump in to the trailor without letting the trailor go from the hitch and when filled just lift the stabilizers and then be on my way but I guess thia wasn't such a great idea after all.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #15  
it is a good idea,someone just needs to figure out how to do it w/o damage to the tractor. keep thinking!!
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Well my thought was that when you are using the back hoe for what it is intended that you are putting a stress on the back of the tractor and if it can handle that then pulling a trailor load of rock and gravel short distances like 1000 feet should not matter but I suppose the stabilizers when in use reduce some of the stress as they are intended to.

I suppose I can still make one for handling the trailor empty and when it is loaded then use a hitch on the front end loader for moving it when it is loaded as the front end is meant for handling loads and moving them .This way I could still use the loader for dumping the load. All I have to do is make up a hitch to mount to the bucket in front for when hooking the trailor onto the tractor. This would also make it easier for me when directly the load of gravel into a certain place rather than backing into the site I can drive front on into the site.


Same principle as a forklift but with the ball mounted onto the lip of the loader in the center. My intentions was that I could hall the trailor behind the tractor and leave it connected but at an angle to the back hoe so when I was digging I could dump in to the trailor without letting the trailor go from the hitch and when filled just lift the stabilizers and then be on my way but I guess thia wasn't such a great idea after all.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #17  
That is a Yanmar C-10 Dumpster. It is the smallest one they make. It isn't the fastest. I use it to haul dirt out of slabs when I dig in the plumbing. It has worked very well for me. It is slow enough that my hired help don't do much damage to the property. I wish I had a dozen. I have people ask about it almost every time I hit the road. It is also very handy around the house. I keep it here to do yard work.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #18  
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This is about the same situation I am in all the time. i am considering a 4 wheel wagon style trailer, with this set up you will only be pulling the weight with the tractor. the bad side of that is trying to back up a wagon with a tractor just isnt to much fun. An extended draw bar and a long tongue on the trailer would allow you to acomplish the task i think.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #19  
I once chained my trailer to the backhoe bucket to pull it out to a flat spot to hitch up - When I pulled - the relief valve on the backhoe opened and the cylinders compressed - extending the boom. I figure that if the forces were that high - they were not good for the backhoe - never done it since.

I use the opposite approach - I have a receiver hitch in my bucket- I need to pull the trailer -I go backwards. On my 855, reverse is the same speed as forward when I'm in low range anyway. Wouldn't want to do it too far - but for my needs it works out well. I can even connect to my bucket tilt lines to power my dump trailer's cylinder.
 
   / Hitch on your backhoe #20  
It works well, though when pulling hard with my bx24 the dipper stick will swing out a bit given the play in the whole backhoe assembly - not a big deal. Hitching up is a breeze as you would imagine. It allows me to park the boat in a tough location in our yard - the articulation of the backhoe blows away towing with your fel and towing forward feels more natural (have also made an assembly for the fel which I'll post later). You have to watch the lateral force on the tractor when turning uphill or down though that is remedied by swinging the boom. Hopefully the pictures will attach - I used the two existing 7/16" holes on the sides of the bucket (the port one is used to clamp the lower bucket pin) and the curved blue base plate extends up beyond the bolt keeping the hitch unit clamped against the bucket. The stem is welded to the "c" channel and the ball is interchangable. Very simple design - off and on in a minute - the 6" x 7/16" bolt is reinstalled when the unit is removed, and the unit stores under the backhoe platform. Toughest part was bending the 3/8" backing plate.
 

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