Homemade Pallet Forks

[kubota2630]

Thanks very much for all the information. Yes I was thinking of 1.5" X 3" X 1/8". Maybe I should go with 3/16" instead. I may also make the forks 36" or 42" long. I was going with 1/8" to keep the weight down. It would also be easier to work with(drill, cut etc.).

 

[keeney]

I got some 36" removed-from-service mini-forks for $75 plus shipping. I too wanted to stay as light as possible. At first, I thought the 36" would be too small, but they are plenty big for pallets, and after running into things enough times to wish they were smaller, I am glad they are not any bigger!

Anything big enough to need bigger forks is probably going to exceeed the capacity of my little JD 4100 ayways. (rated at 800 lbs, probably can do 1200 lbs).

I agree that some used forks are the way to go. Really strong.

- Rick

 

[Rio_Grande]

I would be very concerned with 1/8 inch for a lifting application. Not to say it CAN'T be done as we all know strength of the material is directly proportinate to the amount of stress we put it under.

For my puropouses under no circumstances would I attempt to use anything smaller than 1/2 inch material for forks.

I am a bit of an odball as I break everything I use at some point. What I think you need to be more concerned about than the vertical lift is the push load applied to the forks when they need to push into or under something. your tractor moving forward will exert far more pressure that your lift capacity.


Lastly If you are near southeastern Indiana I have a distributor that sells brand new 48" pallet forks (real ones like you use on a forklift) for 150.00 a set (that is 2) I ended up getting my entire rack and fork set from him for under 500.00 Figuring my time and materials I couldn't build it that cheap.

Forgot to mention in my first draft of this. Some may say that the manufactured pallet forks are not 1/2 inch thick for the smaller ones. This is correct, but the reason is they are a tempered material. the same thickness of material in cold rolled dosen't have near the strength as the material they use. I have had to blow holes in the end with a torch because I couldn't get through them with a cobolt bit.
Again just further info not wanting to start any fights..

 

[kubota2630]

I'm in Ontario, Canada. I may look into buying forks but I love making things. I've made snowmobile lifts, pwc lifts and a few other things. I just like playing with metal. I think I can make them for around $200.00 complete. I will use them mainly to lift my docks at the lake. My docks are 4' wide and weigh 300 to 400 lbs. I may use them to lift logs in the bush when I'm cutting firewood. Thanks for all the information.

 

[Skyco]

I got some 36" removed-from-service mini-forks for $75 plus shipping. I too wanted to stay as light as possible. At first, I thought the 36" would be too small, but they are plenty big for pallets, and after running into things enough times to wish they were smaller, I am glad they are not any bigger!

Anything big enough to need bigger forks is probably going to exceeed the capacity of my little JD 4100 ayways. (rated at 800 lbs, probably can do 1200 lbs).

I agree that some used forks are the way to go. Really strong.

- Rick

Well one of the reasons I made my set is to offload a large load that doesn't way that much I plan on ordering a 1000-1500 gallon poly water tank that will arrive by truck. Maybe a couple of hundred pounds but more than I can handle alone manually, will be easy with my forks and the BX24..at least that is my plan.

 

[Mith]

I would be very concerned with 1/8 inch for a lifting application.
For my puropouses under no circumstances would I attempt to use anything smaller than 1/2 inch material for forks.

We are talking about 1/8" wall box. 1/8" plate would be very flimsy.
Your loader arms probably arent even 1/2" wall box?

Buying a set or fork lift forks is the way to go.

 

[Rio_Grande]

We are talking about 1/8" wall box. 1/8" plate would be very flimsy.
Your loader arms probably arent even 1/2" wall box?

Agreed to a point.

My loader arms are not 1/2 inch they are 1/4 tube and gussested at every bend and doubled by 2 (two arms). I don't want to argue engineering, heck I probably spelled it wrong, but comparing the forks to the arms isin't compariing apples to apples. If you are only lifting 400lb I guess it would be fine, for my purpouses A real pallet fork is the only way I can go.

1/8 box is much stronger than plate, but I still think it is gonna fold up. These smaller tractors may not put that much force on them. The smallest thing I have is 57hp. It may be fine for his purposes. I had a 155d Yanmar years ago and it had more Hydraulics than the tractor had weight. I was routinly amazed with the ability and wouldn't want to weight it down with "real" palet forks. But I think 1/8 box woul be be found lacking on it.

 

[Mith]

I dont have any figures, but the strength of even lighter walled box is quite impressive.
I think 60HP might be pushing it though, not so much in terms of the lifting forces on the forks, but the general beating, they'd probably fold up if you caught them on the ground as you were driving forwards. You could probably even bend up a pair of normal forks with a tractor that size too though. I had assumed we were talking 30Hp tops
For the thrashing I'm sure they'll recieve, I dont think box is for you

 

[kubota2630]

My tractor is 26 hp only with a lift capacity of approx. 800 - 900 lbs. I know it will likely lift much more. I'm amazed at the strength of 1/8" tubing but will go with 3/16 or 1/4 tube and keep the forks around 36" long. I will make fork extensions to lift my docks.

 

[wedge40]

I would be very concerned with 1/8 inch for a lifting application. Not to say it CAN'T be done as we all know strength of the material is directly proportinate to the amount of stress we put it under.

For my puropouses under no circumstances would I attempt to use anything smaller than 1/2 inch material for forks.

I am a bit of an odball as I break everything I use at some point. What I think you need to be more concerned about than the vertical lift is the push load applied to the forks when they need to push into or under something. your tractor moving forward will exert far more pressure that your lift capacity.


Lastly If you are near southeastern Indiana I have a distributor that sells brand new 48" pallet forks (real ones like you use on a forklift) for 150.00 a set (that is 2) I ended up getting my entire rack and fork set from him for under 500.00 Figuring my time and materials I couldn't build it that cheap.

Forgot to mention in my first draft of this. Some may say that the manufactured pallet forks are not 1/2 inch thick for the smaller ones. This is correct, but the reason is they are a tempered material. the same thickness of material in cold rolled dosen't have near the strength as the material they use. I have had to blow holes in the end with a torch because I couldn't get through them with a cobolt bit.
Again just further info not wanting to start any fights..

I live up by bloomington and I'd be interested in learning more of the $500 pallet fork attachment. Right now it's a toss up getting a FEL grapple or Pallet fork attachment. I'd still have to spend about $200 to get a quick attach bracket from koyker. I need to get one and take it to a weld shop to see if they can make em cheaper.. I'm sure they probably can.

You can post here or send me a private message.

Wedge