homemade stock trailer

[bahia]

has anyone built a homemade livestock trailer? i am in the process of building one now and so far have the frame(2"x2" sq. tubing) already tack welded. i am having a devil of a time getting the "T" butt joints of the frame/crossmembers welded correctly. it seems that when i weld down the seam and chip and brush the slag, i have a gap that did not weld. what causes this? this is my first "big" project and the first time i have had such a problem. i am using a 3/32" rod #6013 on 90 amps to weld 1/8" wall tubing. i tried to "surf " around with different amps and rod sizes, but no good either. even tried to run a bead on each side of the joint and then one down the middle and that is even worse. seems like nothing will "bridge" the gap. i would greatly appreciate any hints or ideas as to what i am doing(or not doing) wrong on this.

 

[crb478]

Sounds like you have not perfected the technique for vertical welds just yet, so a little prcatice might be in order before you commit to something you have to trust. It is simular to flat welding in that you have to work both sides and fill in the center with a poole of molten weld. If you can manipulate the trailer on its side you could weld them as all horizonal. If you are concerned about the strength of the welds you could also add gusset material (looks like a right triangle) to the sides of the T and weld it in place. This will give you more welding surface and helps keep the trailer from racking. Hope this helps. There are others that may be able to give better advise.

 

[Ozarker]

When you vertical weld thick material, start at the bottom and work up. By moving slightly side to side across the gap, weaving, you will be making a horizontal weld but stacking one bead on top of the other as you move up.

Top down vertical welding is good for sheet metal because you get less heat in one spot and les penetration. But it is not good for thicker stock.

The problem with welding up or down a vertical surface is that your puddle will tend to flow down and away from your weld. Think in terms of spot welding. You have to create a puddle then get out of it so it can cool before it runs away. You can go straight up, not weaving, but it is like stacking dimes. Lay one, lay the next, lay the next, etc etc........

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Yep,sounds like you need some more practice. Every welder has thier own style for making different types of welds. On vertical welds I make sure I hold my hand lower than the tip of the rod.( aprox 60 deg. angel) Work the rod in this position, moving back and forth across the joint making a "u" with the rod tip. This allows the pudddel of molen steel to fill the gap, and the angle of the rod helps to keep forceing the puddle back up so wont run down quite so fast. I'm no pro, and actually I'm self taught, but it works for me. Keep at it, you'll get it!/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif