Honda quad question

[KubotainNH]

There's some more tips on this website. I can't recall if there was something else I had to do. Someone mentions elsewhere about the hole or plunger at the bottom of the reservoir. The issue seems to be common.

brakes wont bleed - Honda ATV Forum

 

[handirifle]

Yea I adjusted them after cleaning the rust from the drums and making it so the wheels actually turned. That done, I adjusted them, and it was some time later before attempting the flush, that started this whole mess.

I really don't think the rest of the system is too bad, but there may be some restrictions still. If my next couple attempts don't clear out the air. I will pull it apart and clean it.

 

[handirifle]

There has never been an issue getting the MC to actually pump fluid through the bleeder screw. Nothing is a COMPLETE roadblock, but there might be something holding a bubble or two. I was surprised how much air has come out so far, but the majority of it has come from reverse gravity bleeding.

 

[crazyal]

No calipers, it has drum brakes.

I rigged up 2 different systems today, with limited success. One, I got off youtube, where I placed an open container of brake fluid well above the MC and connected to bleeder fitting. Opened the fitting, and slightly jiggled the brake lever to release tiny air bubbles. This worked very marginally.
The second was I used the same setup, but with a sealed plastic water bottle containing brake fluid, and with the line still connected to the bleeder screw.
I squeezed the bottle to provide back pressure up to the MC. This worked much better and I saw a lot more air come out than I suspected was in there.

I actually now have about 30-35% of brake pressure in the front, so obviously, there is still air in there. I like the reverse bleed methods because it sends air bubbles the direction they naturally want to go. I am just not sure they will ALL get past the rubber cups inside the MC, to the reservoir.

At least I am making SOME progress. What a PITA this has been. I rebuilt the entire brake system on an old Heald Hauler, that I restored, last year, and I thought that was tough to bleed. It was simple compared to this.

You can still do it using the slave cylinders, you'll just need to remove the drums and brake shoes though. If the slave is the type that has two rods that push the shoes apart then you can just use a pair of large channel lock pliers to squeeze them together. I think I remember seeing a different style of slave that had a shaft that rotated. If you have that style you would have to rotate the shaft in reverse of the way it would normally work.

 

[handirifle]

Yea that seems like more hassle than it's worth to me.

 

[dfkrug]

I think I remember seeing a different style of slave that had a shaft that rotated.
If you have that style you would have to rotate the shaft in reverse of the way it would normally work.

Honda's wheel cyls for drum brakes (front and rear on the TRX300FW and others) use rotating adjusters on
them. You CAN retract the pistons with a big channel-lock pliers, however, as you state. If the
drum will not come off, you have to use a screwdriver in the hole to back the shoes off first.

The whole wheel cyls can be purchased from Honda for only about $35 each. I would be very hesitant
about rebuliding them with a kit since they often fail due to corrosion to the bore and then are
not generally repairable. The rebuild kits cost only a little less. BTDT

These Honda drum brakes work fine as long as you keep water and mud out. Sadly, Honda's attempts
to seal them only keeps the inevitable water from draining OUT. The TRX300FWs are extremely
popular for mudding, and that will ruin them. The TRX250s use the same cylinders.

 

[handirifle]

Mine are normal slave cylinders. I remember from when I had to free up the wheels the first time. I compressed them in with pliers. I do not plan on going to that extreme though to bleed them.