hopefully not a really stupid question

[s219]

OP, unless you know what you are grinding off, I'd say go buy a proper chain instead of modifying it yourself.

I can remember more than one newbie at the arboristsite forum grinding off the depth rakers, which are not related to the safety function at all, but are used to control the cut. If you take off the depth rakers, which are right in front of the cutter edge on the cutter link, then you will ruin the chain -- it would become wildly uncontrollable.

On some brands/types of chain, you can grind of the safety humps. But on others, you cannot. For example, on Stihl green chain, the safety hump is in parallel with the depth raker, so you can't get rid of the humps without grinding on the depth rakers.

 

[s219]

I was using Stihl's green low kick back safety chain for several years. I decided it was time to get a few new chains so I stepped up to the yellow chain which is more aggressive. I was surprised at the difference. Cuts like butter... I have a 16" bar saw and 20" bar pro saw.


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Unless you are plunge cutting at the tip, the green and yellow chains of the same cutter type will cut the same along the length of the bar.

More likely, you changed from green semi-chisel (RM) to yellow full-chisel (RS). You can get both types in green or yellow, and they will cut the same along the length of the bar. All of Stihl's saws that run .325 would have shipped with green RM chain, but you're showing that the new chain is RS in the picture. So the change from RM to RS is the big factor here, and the green/yellow distinction only matters for plunge cuts and overall safety.

Full-chisel does cut better when sharp, but it dulls much more quickly so it's only appropriate for clean wood and when you can keep it sharpened. I file my full-chisel chain at least 3-4 times more than semi-chisel in a given day of cutting.

 

[ghenges]

I have both my 24" and 18" bars now and both have the low kickback safety chains. I was wondering if anyone has modified their chains so they pluge cut better. I'm guessing those little guides in front of the cutting teeth are that make it a safety chain. If I'm off in left field and need to just repurchase my chains just say the word but wanted to avoid replacing brand new chains.
Thanks!

I assume you are an intelligent person so I won't approach you as an idiot --
If you are aware of the kickback danger go ahead and grind the safety nubs off.

Don't let all the "war stories" and the psuedo-Paul Bunyan types frighten you. Only you can determine your level of expertise.

Read the thread linked below, it will explain in clearer terms safety chains versus non-safety chains.
A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN

 

[BlackRaptor]

Thanks everyone. And trust me I've seen the damage saws can cause and have had
a few very close calls and respect the danger and power the saw has.

Also never lend saws to people is my rule. For me if you don't own one chances are you haven't used one enough to be safe and experienced. So I come with the saw or they can go rent a little electric chainsaw. And I don't have to worry.

 

[TreePointer]

Effective plunge/bore cutting is achieved with both a pro (not low kickback) chain and a pro (not low kickback) bar. I do it with low kickback bars (like a Stihl E), but I prefer a standard round tip (Stihl ES) for plunge cutting.

When first learning to bore cut I also recommend a forestry helmet (helmet + face shield) for kickback protection. Heck, it's best to learn from an experienced sawyer who can demonstrate this in person.