Horse trailer ?
- Thread starter ChrsDrn
- Start date
DanD78
Platinum Member
Usually when we take two horses in our 16' stock trailer I will put them both in the back half and tie thier heads with one of those elastic ties. We don't usually go over a couple of hours away and it works out well. In the front we can put the tac or the 4 wheeler.
I use it for a lot more than the horses and cows. I can haul 84 bales of hay or move friends if needed. I bought a 16' Corn Pro with the heavy axles, extra wide and extra tall. I had a dream of draft horses one day.
Dan
I use it for a lot more than the horses and cows. I can haul 84 bales of hay or move friends if needed. I bought a 16' Corn Pro with the heavy axles, extra wide and extra tall. I had a dream of draft horses one day.
Dan
A few things;
FIRST the FLOOR !!!
If the outside is that neglected the chances of a rotted floor are HIGH !
Horses put down a point pressure that will punch through a rotted wood floor that may seem "OK" or even "solid" to a human.
5 stud electric drum brakes 10 inch diameter 2 inch width are common on 2 horse tag along trailers - I hesitate to say "standard", but common enough.
e.g. I have them on a 2 horse trailer with 7,700 lb GVW.
I assume they get to that as; two 3500 lb axles and 700 lbs tongue load.
Remember that;
a) horses don't "hold it" in the trailer (-:
b) horse urine is corrosive
c) a lot of it runs out right over the rear axle.
d) the structure at the back end of the frame rusts out the worst from urine and MATTERS because that is where the rear spring shackles are attached as well as the ramp (if there is one).
Stock trailers are OK, I just feel that horses restrained in stalls are less likely to be in a WRONG position if/when there is a need for emergency braking.
One WRONG position is having a single LARGE horse position itself all the way back against the rear doors - this results in very little tongue load.
Dividers, butt and chest bars un-clip quickly for use as a utility trailer.
So, I hope some of that is useful for "Next time".
I hate to be so blunt, but "This Time" I think you got a rust bucket.
FIRST the FLOOR !!!
If the outside is that neglected the chances of a rotted floor are HIGH !
Horses put down a point pressure that will punch through a rotted wood floor that may seem "OK" or even "solid" to a human.
5 stud electric drum brakes 10 inch diameter 2 inch width are common on 2 horse tag along trailers - I hesitate to say "standard", but common enough.
e.g. I have them on a 2 horse trailer with 7,700 lb GVW.
I assume they get to that as; two 3500 lb axles and 700 lbs tongue load.
Remember that;
a) horses don't "hold it" in the trailer (-:
b) horse urine is corrosive
c) a lot of it runs out right over the rear axle.
d) the structure at the back end of the frame rusts out the worst from urine and MATTERS because that is where the rear spring shackles are attached as well as the ramp (if there is one).
Stock trailers are OK, I just feel that horses restrained in stalls are less likely to be in a WRONG position if/when there is a need for emergency braking.
One WRONG position is having a single LARGE horse position itself all the way back against the rear doors - this results in very little tongue load.
Dividers, butt and chest bars un-clip quickly for use as a utility trailer.
So, I hope some of that is useful for "Next time".
I hate to be so blunt, but "This Time" I think you got a rust bucket.
MikePA
Super Moderator
Keep in mind you can get stock trailers configured to transport horses. Our 16 foot GN stock trailer had a front section and back section separated by a divider. Two horses could comfortably fit in each section. The suspension was torsion bar, not leaf springs with shackles. There were plexiglass inserts which could be removed in summer. Also, the better horse trailers have dividers that can be removed for using the trailer for other purposes. Our GN also had mats over the pressure treated floor plus a sturdy lining on the interior walls.
However, the first step is writing down what you want to use the trailer for.
How many horses? More than 2 and my recommendation is a GN.
How far will they be transported? Locally or long distance?
How long will they, and you, stay? A few hours to a lesson or days on end?
Where will the tack be stored?
All year round or just in the warm months?
Do you have a place to store the trailer?
How about a place to turn it around?
EquiSpirit is a great place to learn about horse trailers?
However, the first step is writing down what you want to use the trailer for.
How many horses? More than 2 and my recommendation is a GN.
How far will they be transported? Locally or long distance?
How long will they, and you, stay? A few hours to a lesson or days on end?
Where will the tack be stored?
All year round or just in the warm months?
Do you have a place to store the trailer?
How about a place to turn it around?
EquiSpirit is a great place to learn about horse trailers?
whistlepig
Elite Member
We are on our fifth horse trailer. All five of these we bought used. All that we bought were in good condition but still required a bit of work to get them back in the condition we prefer. It's important to buy a brand name trailer. These are better made and the parts are more readily available. It's just not worth the risk. To have a couple of horses on a trailer that's broke down in the middle of nowhere. What are you going to do with the horses?
A horse trailer is ALSO part of your horse's emergency kit, i.e. you just MIGHT have to make an URGENT trip to the vet.
In New Hampshire there is snow (sometimes).
Part of the obligation of keeping a horse trailer for urgent vet runs is keeping it plowed out and keeping the snow off the roof.
For this I suggest a step ladder and a roof rake.
If it part melts, freezes, develops into 3 inch thick ice scabs those can cause fatal accidents when they fly off the roof at highway speeds - and even if they don't, you wouldn't like the ticket for it.
Last week I trailered a 10 month pregnant mare when it was 8 F and 10 F in western Mass.
I would have felt REALLY BAD for her if it had been in an uninsulated stock trailer.
In New Hampshire there is snow (sometimes).
Part of the obligation of keeping a horse trailer for urgent vet runs is keeping it plowed out and keeping the snow off the roof.
For this I suggest a step ladder and a roof rake.
If it part melts, freezes, develops into 3 inch thick ice scabs those can cause fatal accidents when they fly off the roof at highway speeds - and even if they don't, you wouldn't like the ticket for it.
Last week I trailered a 10 month pregnant mare when it was 8 F and 10 F in western Mass.
I would have felt REALLY BAD for her if it had been in an uninsulated stock trailer.
Hate to jump on Ya about this, but I wouldn't;
a) Put two horses in the rear half of a trailer and ONLY a 4 wheeler in the front half
b) EVER tie a horse that isn't stalled.
c) EVER use a bungie cord tie.
Rationale;
a) Weight distribution. Likely to contribute to sway.
b) Risk of neck wrench if you have to brake and the horse stumbles.
c) When those things break, and they DO, there is a sling shot - one end of which is on the halter very close to the eye.
As I said, I hate to jump on Ya, but PLEASE reconsider all three points.
riptides
Super Member
I bought a 500 dollar trailer. Invested about 500 more for brake and electrical work.
If the floor is sound, the axle good, the lights and tow arrangement works, and it passes inspection, then why bother with more money for another one.
Get another set of eyes on it.
Set a dollar limit for what it will do in your head.
Price out others, and then figure out how much your really going to us it.
If the floor is sound, the axle good, the lights and tow arrangement works, and it passes inspection, then why bother with more money for another one.
Get another set of eyes on it.
Set a dollar limit for what it will do in your head.
Price out others, and then figure out how much your really going to us it.
Just to answer part of your original question: Torflex is the name Dexter puts on its torsion spring type axle. Almost all the current horse type trailers use this today. I question that it is better than the old interactive two axle leaf spring set up (it 'walks' over bumps and holes very smoothly -- I don't think the Torflex does). I suspect that 'cool factor' and 'the market' have made them popular, though they also are extremely simple to align and install versus a leaf spring axle (4 bolts per axle versus welding leaf spring mounts on and aligning the springs).
Anyhow, we just sold a 25 year old Circle J two horse trailer. A lot of them out there for under ~$4000. Just like looking at a used car: If it looks like it was taken care of and there are no major repairs (frames, tongue, etc) they are probably good. Having said that, they will likely need a couple of these things: lights, or wiring, breakaway switch, battery for breakaway circuit, floor wood, etc. My wife bought it new and washed the interior out after hauling, and also put a stall mat over the wood (easier to clean, some protection for the wood -- which was not pressure treated). Still had great wood after all those years. I have gone over the wiring a couple of times, finally replacing all of it.
Feature wise, acknowledging the multi use stock trailer (note that a tall/draft model is so much better), a horse only model is really nice to have:
1. An escape door for a human (best to actually use a large 5/8~3/4 inch rope through the little door for the horses head; run it from the halter, through the door, and back to the human that is urging the horse into the trailer). This way if there is a 'wreck' the human can escape. Some trailers come with two, but you only need one -- you load the first horse in the stall without one, and the human can go into the other stall. Similar, the second load up the human can use the escape door.
2. We use trailers with mangers. This is the layout on standard straight load trailers. Not common on slant loads (but available). WE DO NOT feed while in the trailer. There may be a 'reward' of a handful of treats for loading (mindset that there is value in loading up-- food). There is always time to eat OUTSIDE where the horse can eat as it should -- neck out, head down (the way the intake tract is designed to be in eating mode). The manger gives the horse something solid to lean into while underway, as well as reserving a place for there head an neck to be.
3. Don't drive down the road with the head window open. Lots of sound, wind, and sometimes a horses head hanging out to be hit by an object (bug, bird, rock). On the road is not a place to need a vet. Not that there is any good place.
4. Not so big a thing, but we prefer chains for butt bars. Not so much to clank and move around if a horse is nervous, and you have more options while moving around to attach it.
5. The back doors should be of the 'dutch door' type. You close the bottom door upon the horse getting in (they can't back out then). THEN you reach over and attach the butt chain.
6. In a straight load, single horse stall trailer, we tether the halter with a breakaway tie. It has a quick release mechanism that is operated by sliding a collar away from the horse. In normal conditions, they can move there head only some, but not enough to be able to step back out of the trailer.
7. Having a tack compartment of some size (the old trailer was under the head/manger area) gives you a place to put two saddles, and enough tack for the horses, plus the emergency stuff, shipping boots (leggings: keeps the horses from stepping on/kicking themselves in the lower legs).
8. If you are going to be going somewhere overnight, you will want to be able to carry hay. On a two horse, that means hauling it on the roof (unless you are pulling with a pick up). Kind of a pain to load, but many trailers have the rack up there. Why not use the hay where you are going? Well, horses can be sensitive, so you want to bring your own hay, as having a horse with colic (you never want that) is a very serious thing.
9. You will want to be able to tie the horses on the outside. That way they can be saddled, etc. The area around where they are to be tied to needs to be safe, including on the trailer. Not usually a problem, but something to think about.
10. We camp a couple of times a year with the horses. My wife is AR (a good thing in a horse owner, as horses have a very tiny brain, and do one thing well: run; that's all you need to do when you are a herd animal with long legs and a small brain), and as a result of experiences and a former competitor in long distance trail riding (the organizations name is lot to me) she has several specifics for tieing them off and leaving them on the trailer: The lead should be tied so that the horses head can just barely reach the ground (it will stretch some when there is a 1000# pulling on it; this is to keep the horse from stepping over the lead and hooking a leg in it and having a wreck), the tire/fender area has to be filled (on the old trailer she put thick foam pads in there, including between the front/rear wheels; this keeps them from hooking a hoof and pulling a shoe, or getting a hoof caught under the edge); water is hung to the side of the head tie so that they can get a drink, but are not likely to spill it (usually the water tie is over the fender). An alternative to this is one I have seen (mostly) on stock type trailers: the fender is a long shelf that runs most of the way along the side.
11. Horses will want to be able to see each other when tied off. Let that help you position a tie off (lead to ground rule) so that they can see around the back corner. They stay calmer if they can see a stable mate.
12. Rear door latches: There are some that are more self latching than others. Mostly the best are only on fairly new trailers, but not necessarily on all the models of any given make. A bored horse will just fiddle around until the open it (it is amazing). Some trailers have ramps. Not a big fan, especially in areas that are cold (the ramp can be slippery). The horse will learn to step up/down, and in the long run will find this to be a more natural thing (plus, they can't step off of the side in a horse wreck).
13. A sign of a well thought out trailer is the hitch. I don't have any experience with goose neck or 5th wheel hitches. The best known of the good ones is Bulldog. It has a side opening latch assembly that wraps around the ball and latches closed with spring loaded collar. Strong, solid, positive latching. On bumper pull models you will find 2" or 2 5/16". Most hitches can be retrofitted.
14. If you have to change the wiring connector, upgrade both ends to the 7 pole blade. It has a 'self wiping' action that helps to keep corrosion cleaned off of the contact points. And it is the defacto standard. Makes it easy if you need to change pulling vehicles. That is also a reason to use a bumper pull trailer, you don't need a particular dedicated pull vehicle (suv, van, pick up, etc).
There are different opinions, and all have good reasons. I tried to point out the easier things to find and use. Especially as you learn what your likes and dislikes are. And your budget grows. We store our trailer such that it is accessible for emergency use. This means it ends up being at the house next to the driveway, so that snow and mud are not problems to getting the horse out (if the horse can't make it out to the trailer, it is too sick to trailer). I added back up lights to my trailer. It really makes it easier to move around at night. I used fog lights mounted so they point out to the side.
Oh -- and please have mirrors that are big enough to see around the trailer. You and everyone else will be much happier.
Anyhow, we just sold a 25 year old Circle J two horse trailer. A lot of them out there for under ~$4000. Just like looking at a used car: If it looks like it was taken care of and there are no major repairs (frames, tongue, etc) they are probably good. Having said that, they will likely need a couple of these things: lights, or wiring, breakaway switch, battery for breakaway circuit, floor wood, etc. My wife bought it new and washed the interior out after hauling, and also put a stall mat over the wood (easier to clean, some protection for the wood -- which was not pressure treated). Still had great wood after all those years. I have gone over the wiring a couple of times, finally replacing all of it.
Feature wise, acknowledging the multi use stock trailer (note that a tall/draft model is so much better), a horse only model is really nice to have:
1. An escape door for a human (best to actually use a large 5/8~3/4 inch rope through the little door for the horses head; run it from the halter, through the door, and back to the human that is urging the horse into the trailer). This way if there is a 'wreck' the human can escape. Some trailers come with two, but you only need one -- you load the first horse in the stall without one, and the human can go into the other stall. Similar, the second load up the human can use the escape door.
2. We use trailers with mangers. This is the layout on standard straight load trailers. Not common on slant loads (but available). WE DO NOT feed while in the trailer. There may be a 'reward' of a handful of treats for loading (mindset that there is value in loading up-- food). There is always time to eat OUTSIDE where the horse can eat as it should -- neck out, head down (the way the intake tract is designed to be in eating mode). The manger gives the horse something solid to lean into while underway, as well as reserving a place for there head an neck to be.
3. Don't drive down the road with the head window open. Lots of sound, wind, and sometimes a horses head hanging out to be hit by an object (bug, bird, rock). On the road is not a place to need a vet. Not that there is any good place.
4. Not so big a thing, but we prefer chains for butt bars. Not so much to clank and move around if a horse is nervous, and you have more options while moving around to attach it.
5. The back doors should be of the 'dutch door' type. You close the bottom door upon the horse getting in (they can't back out then). THEN you reach over and attach the butt chain.
6. In a straight load, single horse stall trailer, we tether the halter with a breakaway tie. It has a quick release mechanism that is operated by sliding a collar away from the horse. In normal conditions, they can move there head only some, but not enough to be able to step back out of the trailer.
7. Having a tack compartment of some size (the old trailer was under the head/manger area) gives you a place to put two saddles, and enough tack for the horses, plus the emergency stuff, shipping boots (leggings: keeps the horses from stepping on/kicking themselves in the lower legs).
8. If you are going to be going somewhere overnight, you will want to be able to carry hay. On a two horse, that means hauling it on the roof (unless you are pulling with a pick up). Kind of a pain to load, but many trailers have the rack up there. Why not use the hay where you are going? Well, horses can be sensitive, so you want to bring your own hay, as having a horse with colic (you never want that) is a very serious thing.
9. You will want to be able to tie the horses on the outside. That way they can be saddled, etc. The area around where they are to be tied to needs to be safe, including on the trailer. Not usually a problem, but something to think about.
10. We camp a couple of times a year with the horses. My wife is AR (a good thing in a horse owner, as horses have a very tiny brain, and do one thing well: run; that's all you need to do when you are a herd animal with long legs and a small brain), and as a result of experiences and a former competitor in long distance trail riding (the organizations name is lot to me) she has several specifics for tieing them off and leaving them on the trailer: The lead should be tied so that the horses head can just barely reach the ground (it will stretch some when there is a 1000# pulling on it; this is to keep the horse from stepping over the lead and hooking a leg in it and having a wreck), the tire/fender area has to be filled (on the old trailer she put thick foam pads in there, including between the front/rear wheels; this keeps them from hooking a hoof and pulling a shoe, or getting a hoof caught under the edge); water is hung to the side of the head tie so that they can get a drink, but are not likely to spill it (usually the water tie is over the fender). An alternative to this is one I have seen (mostly) on stock type trailers: the fender is a long shelf that runs most of the way along the side.
11. Horses will want to be able to see each other when tied off. Let that help you position a tie off (lead to ground rule) so that they can see around the back corner. They stay calmer if they can see a stable mate.
12. Rear door latches: There are some that are more self latching than others. Mostly the best are only on fairly new trailers, but not necessarily on all the models of any given make. A bored horse will just fiddle around until the open it (it is amazing). Some trailers have ramps. Not a big fan, especially in areas that are cold (the ramp can be slippery). The horse will learn to step up/down, and in the long run will find this to be a more natural thing (plus, they can't step off of the side in a horse wreck).
13. A sign of a well thought out trailer is the hitch. I don't have any experience with goose neck or 5th wheel hitches. The best known of the good ones is Bulldog. It has a side opening latch assembly that wraps around the ball and latches closed with spring loaded collar. Strong, solid, positive latching. On bumper pull models you will find 2" or 2 5/16". Most hitches can be retrofitted.
14. If you have to change the wiring connector, upgrade both ends to the 7 pole blade. It has a 'self wiping' action that helps to keep corrosion cleaned off of the contact points. And it is the defacto standard. Makes it easy if you need to change pulling vehicles. That is also a reason to use a bumper pull trailer, you don't need a particular dedicated pull vehicle (suv, van, pick up, etc).
There are different opinions, and all have good reasons. I tried to point out the easier things to find and use. Especially as you learn what your likes and dislikes are. And your budget grows. We store our trailer such that it is accessible for emergency use. This means it ends up being at the house next to the driveway, so that snow and mud are not problems to getting the horse out (if the horse can't make it out to the trailer, it is too sick to trailer). I added back up lights to my trailer. It really makes it easier to move around at night. I used fog lights mounted so they point out to the side.
Oh -- and please have mirrors that are big enough to see around the trailer. You and everyone else will be much happier.
riptides
Super Member
Very good and informative post!