Phred
Veteran Member
DMA,
When I bought my property the roads were awful.
Places were unaccesable with even my 4wd tractor. A few still need a dozer to finish the job. I now have it under much better control through the use of my rear blade. The key, as I am sure you are aware, is controlling the water run off with ditches and culverts. I use the rear blade exclusively for ditches. Works great.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/37-218325-bladeinaction1.jpg
Takes a bit of practice to get the angle right.
Put it in low gear and go slow at first until you get the hang of it. Otherwise you may do more harm than good in the beginnig.
Use the tilt from side to side to control the bite you take, and the tilt from front to back to control the flow of the material you cut with the blade. The heavier the blade the better it will cut but it will also require more traction if you take a big bite of heavy soil and or rock.
Fred
When I bought my property the roads were awful.
Places were unaccesable with even my 4wd tractor. A few still need a dozer to finish the job. I now have it under much better control through the use of my rear blade. The key, as I am sure you are aware, is controlling the water run off with ditches and culverts. I use the rear blade exclusively for ditches. Works great.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/37-218325-bladeinaction1.jpg
Takes a bit of practice to get the angle right.
Put it in low gear and go slow at first until you get the hang of it. Otherwise you may do more harm than good in the beginnig.
Use the tilt from side to side to control the bite you take, and the tilt from front to back to control the flow of the material you cut with the blade. The heavier the blade the better it will cut but it will also require more traction if you take a big bite of heavy soil and or rock.
Fred