Dirt Moving How do I grade rocky soil??????

   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #11  
I do this every weekend with a 72" BB behind a NH TC33. My box sticks out about 6-8" wider than the rear tires. Go slow! Every now and then I'll catch a big one on the outer edge of the box and it will roll up out of the ground under the box causing the rear tire to lift off the ground. It seems that what appears to be a small rock turns out to be the tip of an iceberg.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #12  
You don't have to be wider than the tires - it's a rule of thumb, just like 5hp/ft. A little more or less isn't going to make an enormous difference. My only concern about a 4ft blade on your tractor is some of the 4ft blades are built light for the smaller SCUTs and bend easily.

I got mine used off craigslist. You can get good quality new ones w/ free shipping from (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) for a lot less than $860.

The 2wd suggestion is also a good idea, as is going uphill (if there's any grade) on your first pass. All these things will help reduce the chance of damage when you get surprised..

http://www.(Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure)/Box-Blade-Box-Scraper-s/85.htm
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #13  
I actually haven't picked one up yet. My JD dealer has a 65" frontier for $860. Not sure of the weight, but its as HD as they come. I wanted to go with a 4' BB, for storage reasons, but 4' just barely covers the width of the rear tires. Is it necessary to be wider then the tires? Also, do you know of any online sites where I might be able to find a used one?

Not NECESSARY, but very DESIRABLE - especially when you are working along fences or other edges.
The wider it is the better the side to side leveling and the fewer passes, as long as you take small enough bites.

I just read the other posts about possibly using a Harley rake for windrowing and final passes to seed bed.
Yes, if you want it that nice.
I would offer to bring mine and do it for you, but I'm too far away (-:
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil??????
  • Thread Starter
#14  
North Country said:
You don't have to be wider than the tires - it's a rule of thumb, just like 5hp/ft. A little more or less isn't going to make an enormous difference. My only concern about a 4ft blade on your tractor is some of the 4ft blades are built light for the smaller SCUTs and bend easily.

I got mine used off craigslist. You can get good quality new ones w/ free shipping from (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) for a lot less than $860.

The 2wd suggestion is also a good idea, as is going uphill (if there's any grade) on your first pass. All these things will help reduce the chance of damage when you get surprised..

http://www.(Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure)/Box-Blade-Box-Scraper-s/85.htm

My dealer just dropped the price to $760 for the Frontier. Problem is, I'm not sure if it's too big for my tractor. He said it's 65" and weighs 500 lbs. A very solid unit. I guess I'll call Kubota tomorrow and see what they suggest. I looked at the KK on everything attachments. Also a very nice BB. It weighs about 65 lbs less then the Frontier. Ok i'll figure it out. Thanks for all the replies everyone.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #15  
others sound like they have everything cover i could think of.

something to think about possibly. i have never done it though. and have no idea in how it would work. but if your backhoe bucket has good set of long teeth on it. ((warning this might tear up your backhoe)) i might drop the backhoe bucket down with teeth into dirt but not the bucket. and take multi passes that way, ((that is if you do not have to much of an area to do)) to help bring rocks up. ((note out riggers are fully up, and FEL is off ground. and just using the teeth like the scraficers on a BB. (((WARNING, you could roll tractor doing this. more so if you hit a large rock))

but if you have a large enough area. a 3pt hitch rake. i would most likely well worth the cash and less worry about tearing up the backhoe.

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to state what other folks are stating in different words.

when you plant a garden, you plow and/or disc and/or use a tiller. and there are dirt clods you need to remove, so you break out the old "garden rake that has a stiff metal rake on the bottom" and pull the dirt clods all to one side.

when folks say the 3pt hitch rake. think of it as the old metal rake above. but instead of by hand, you can use the power of your tractor to do it.

when folks say using the scraficers on BB, they scraficers are better situated and in that stronger than the tines on a 3pt hitch rake. due to how they are position. so they can take more punishment before breaking / bending. and in that allow you to sink the scraficers into the ground. to help pop rocks up and out.

the BB doubles as a good way to get things Level or nice even slop clear across the area you want.

the 3pt Rake. can double is help loosening the top inch or so of dirt before you spread grass seed. then used again to work the grass seed back into the dirt a little bit.

==============
with above, the FEL and Backhoe i can do some pretty good damage pretty quickly on the 555c TLB of mine. once i get ready, i can pretty much get a line i want to follow, and work fast enough that the front bucket and out riggers for backhoe are on the ground for only a few moments before i need to move the tractor forward more. but, i also kill myself doing this. things can get rather bumpy and jerky. granted with 555c i can just pull lever and turn seat to operate backhoe, without getting off of tractor to switch to a backhoe seat. if i had to get off tractor or rather move to another seat to operate backhoe. that time and extra amount of movement could make or brake a deal. to a point were a box blade and rear rake would well be worth the cash and time and medication needed to kill the pain.

*i shouldn't be saying this out loud* but half the time i just pull lever and keep seat so it does not actually lock forward or in reverse. and just kinda streach out over the seat with one foot on throttle, while i reach for the backhoe controls. and when done with backhoe, lift out riggers a few inchs up off ground so they don't hit anything. tap the FEL joystick to raise it up. touch the shuttle shift lever. move forward. and drop the FEL to stop. twist a little bit to drop out riggers and away i go with backhoe and then just repeat. being in this position makes things quick but takes a toll on my body. and can be rather dangerous i should extremely dangerous. more so if you are not wide awake and not paying attention and even then can be very dangerous.

but beside above, i have done above a couple times, due to i didn't have a tiller on hand. and i could not get a plow or disc into the area. to basicly work the dirt to kinda till or rather plow / disc the dirt. to loosen it up. then used FEL to level things out.

if i would of been on TBN. i would of most likely bolted a 2x6 lumber to teeth of backhoe bucket. and used the 2x6 like a clean cutting edge to smooth things out before getting out the garden hand metal rakes. to put in grass seed. but awe well, the projects are done and it all looks nice.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #16  
Re-reading the original post; since it is only a 1/2 acre area some approaches, e.g. a dozer, are just not worth doing.

Certainly a lot can be done with a back hoe, which the original poster already has.
The basic back filling trick of floating the boom while pushing out with the dipper can be modified by "showing a bit of the bucket teeth" to help comb out some rocks.
I don't like the side swing leveling trick for small hoes and wouldn't do it with a 3 pt hoe without sub-frame, but I don't know what the O/P is using for a hoe.
If you come across some more big'uns no problem, you're already set up with the best tool for the job.
The area you can cover with the 180 degree arc of even a small hoe may be acceptable for a 1/2 acre lot.
Sure, you need to move around a lot, but some of that can be done with the hoe.
OK, maybe not with a 3pt hoe without sub-frame.

The more I think about it the more I like the idea of a Harley rake for the final passes, 1/2 day rental would do a 1/2 acre lot EASILY.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #17  
I like the Harley rake method too and feel it would be a good way to get a seedbed within a short period of time.

Getting all of the rocks out is a tough to impossible task but there are some ways around this that will work well for lawns. I till up the area about six inches deep or better and then run a rock bucket across all of it to collect the larger stuff three inch and over. Next I use a boxblade and/or landplane grader to smooth and fix the contours. Depending on how much material I have had to cut down I may retill the whole thing or just the scraped areas to make sure I have a uniform and deep seedbed. This could also be done with a Harley rake if you have one available. Use the Harley rake to windrow the rocks to pickup. I will seed heavily and run a roller over the seed to firm everything up.

My experience is that tilling the ground deep will allow the roller to push the left over rocks down and off the surface. Hard to get all the rocks out but atleast they can be pressed down out of the way. The lawn grass will grow over the small rocks and will alleviate the problem of loose rocks.

I worked over some areas this spring and planted some fescue, no rain in sight here so I have to use sprinklers for watering. Still have some cleanup and fence to replace but couldn't stand the dust and dirt any longer.


The first two pics are of an area planted the last week in April the last two pics are an area planted three weeks ago. You can still see a few rocks here but not a big problem. This is in the Rocky Mountains (we have rocks).
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #18  
DO NOT, I repete, DO NOT, drive your tractor with the backhoe engaged with the ground! That is a recipe for disaster. There are no pressure relief valves in the backhoe hydralic system (at least not on my bx23) and you stand a good chance of bending a cylinder rod or breaking something.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil??????
  • Thread Starter
#19  
DO NOT, I repete, DO NOT, drive your tractor with the backhoe engaged with the ground! That is a recipe for disaster. There are no pressure relief valves in the backhoe hydralic system (at least not on my bx23) and you stand a good chance of bending a cylinder rod or breaking something.

I agree, plus I don't really see how it would work considering the tractor will be raising and lowering the BH bucket as I drive over bumps. I can see how it would work in theory if you had, say a 30" grading bucket and you were working on perfectly flat ground. But if you already had perfecly flat ground, then............. :D

Thanks everyone for your input, I think I will start with a box blade and take it from there. Thanks again.
 
   / How do I grade rocky soil?????? #20  
Like others suggested get yourself a good box blade and use the rippers to soften the area up and get the smaller rocks up to the surface. Dig the larger rocks that the box blade skips over out with your backhoe. Then once everything is softened up rent a skid steer with a rockhound attachment. Like a harley rake it prepares a nice fluffy seed bed plus it PICKS UP all of the rocks into the bucket. You just dump them where you want them. A day rental should be enough to do your 1/2 acre area. Trust me, with lots of rocks to get out renting a rockhound is money well spent.
 
 
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