How do I vent a 55 Gallon Drum?

[DFB]

we use drums of concentrated coolant at work and just put a ball valve into the 3/4 hole, tip up on the stand and just crack the 2 in bung a little so it will suck air when the internal vacuum rises. once the level gets down it's easy to crack it some more. the valve allows easy filling of small pails to dump into the machines.

Yup...thats the way we always did it!

 

[CNC Dan]

I am new and don't know the best place to put this.

How can I vent a 55 gallon drum with water in it? It is a closed top drum with two bungs. Thanks.

-John.

The bung threads are standard pipe threads. You can get one way valves that will let air in, but not let the contents out. An elbow and a short length of pipe works just as good.

 

[Reddcow]

The bung threads are standard pipe threads. You can get one way valves that will let air in, but not let the contents out. An elbow and a short length of pipe works just as good.

Would that work with the bung hole? And is there any links anyone can provide for me about the pipe? Or is it something my Menards should have?

I was thinking about a PCP Pipe calked in the drum but I'm sure something else would be better.

What I'm actually going to do is use the gallon for my Pressure washer, would that down force of the water be good enough? Or should I hook a Transfer Pump to my tank?

Thanks.

-John.

 

[Lightnsound]

The threaded bungholes in the top of the drum are National Pipe Thread. The big one is 2" NPT. The small one is 3/4" NPT. If you need two smaller ones, get a 2" by 3/4" reducer bushing. Then the rest of the plumbing will all be 3/4" NPT, and probably a 3/4" NPT to Garden Hose Fitting, available at your local hardware store or plumbing supply house. Use steel pipe. PVC will crack, and the threaded black pipe will assemble easily enough and allow you to change things around if need be.

A valve in the vent will prevent any sloshing of the water from spilling out. You shouldn't need to caulk anything in place. A little Teflon thread tape will keep things from leaking and make them tighten down nicely.

If you go down to your local hardware store, I would think that with a little explanation of what you want to do, the salesperson in the plumbing department will be able to help you select all the parts you need.

I wish I saw this earlier while I was still at work. I'd assemble what you need and take a picture. I can do this on Monday if that helps, but I'd imagine that you'll be already finished with this by then. If not let me know and I'll post a pic next week.

 

[xring100]

GPI® Pressure Vent Cap Assembly - Tractor Supply Online Store
This is what i used to use before i got a 300 gallon tank. I had a 2" to 3/4" reducer

 

[radioman]

What I'm actually going to do is use the gallon for my Pressure washer, would that down force of the water be good enough? Or should I hook a Transfer Pump to my tank?

Thanks.

-John.

Did you even read the manual for your pressure washer? I believe they all say you need to be on house pressure before starting up. I'd hook up your transfer pump too it at least.

Second - just like everyone says - you just gotta go to plumbing dept in your local hardware store and bring the bung with your to describe your project.

 

[BHD]

IF one used the 2" on top and use a elbow it makes a nice fill port, one can use a pipe plug and drill a little 1/16" or 1/8" hole in the plug for a vent.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Some pressure washers will work with a tank like you are suggesting, but others require 30-40 PSI feed pressure like from you standard household water faucet. Before investing any money in fittings etc, hook up a water hose to your pressure washer and stick the faucet end into a pail of water and see if you PW will suck the water from the pail, if not, it likely wont work with the drum head pressure either.