How do you chain down your 50 HP tractor for transport?

[Luke'sScreenName]

On the front, is that OK to bolt to the brush guard? It seems that enough tension would bend the guard? I don't know, I'm just tossing that out. A chain puts a lot of tension on things.





I don't like his setup because the bolts and D-rings look wimpy. I usually just throw a chain across the brush guard and feel pretty good about that. I did manage to pull the brush guard 1/2 off with my rollback winch. View attachment 526689

Dang! I don't think you can even blame the weld can you?Hope you put it back on with some higher strength rod! :laughing:

 

[4570Man]

Dang! I don't think you can even blame the weld can you?Hope you put it back on with some higher strength rod! :laughing:

I sold the tractor shortly after forgetting to fix the brush guard.

 

[travlitt]

Six,
You can use the pin hole(s) for the draw bar to attach one or even two clevis for a rear attachment point. I typically use one chain but two would be easy.

View attachment 526678

The one thing I see with your rear tie down with one chain is, If you lose either side anchor point , you loose your entire rear tie down.

 

[2458n]

I used to run heavy equipment in Ohio. The company I worked for got rid of all the lever style chain binders. When I asked why they said it was illegal and went with the screw style. Truck driver said each piece on the load required three chains- he was running a flat semi trailer hauling steel coils.

 

[George2615]

On the front, is that OK to bolt to the brush guard? It seems that enough tension would bend the guard? I don't know, I'm just tossing that out. A chain puts a lot of tension on things.

Do you just run one chain through the back clevis and hook to each side or do you have a separate chain for each side? I often have an implement on and have no drawbar for the clevis so then what?

The brush guard is plenty strong. Same thickness as the tractor frame. I have since relocated the D rings to the frame just behind the guard to get a little more forward angle on the chains without interfering with the bucket.

I run 2 chains through the back clevis.

On a previous tractor I had a large clevis on each lower 3 pt. arm in the spare holes for tie down. The arms each had 2 holes to change the lift points.

 

[George2615]

I don't like his setup because the bolts and D-rings look wimpy. I usually just throw a chain across the brush guard and feel pretty good about that. I did manage to pull the brush guard 1/2 off with my rollback winch. View attachment 526689

Bolts are all grade 8, guard is attached to frame with metric equivalent of grade 8 and D-rings are 10,000 lb. rated and as mentioned I've moved the D rings to the frame since that pic was taken. I moved them because I've seen other guards (such as yours and my neighbors) have bent.

 

[sixdogs]

View attachment 526675

In the photo above, how would I put a clevis into one or two of the holes in the drawbar? If I put a clevis in the hole and then put a chain on it that's angled to the front of the trailer, it will have an unnatural angle and put pressure on the bolt at an angle. Maybe that would weaken the connection?

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

The one thing I see with your rear tie down with one chain is, If you lose either side anchor point , you loose your entire rear tie down.

My thinking is that if you have two lateral chains and one comes loose you MAY actually be WORSE OFF than no chain.:confused3:

Seems like the obvious bottom line is that you need redundancy however you achieve it.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

In the photo above, how would I put a clevis into one or two of the holes in the drawbar? If I put a clevis in the hole and then put a chain on it that's angled to the front of the trailer, it will have an unnatural angle and put pressure on the bolt at an angle. Maybe that would weaken the connection?

Is that the picture you meant to attach? I am easily confused. :confused2:

 

[ovrszd]

God, I hate to admit this, but I'm among friends....... I've hauled my M9540 the six miles to/from the farm with no tiedown at all......

What I normally do is one strap thru the front weight rack on the front, one strap thru a clevis on the rigid drawbar at the rear.

My Son works for a Tow Company. He rolls his eyes a lot at me.

In Missouri you must have four (4) chains crossed with ratchet binders. The binding should eliminate movement in ANY direction.

Using one strap/chain on each end does nothing to eliminate the tractor scooting sideways. Also puts all your eggs in one basket as in failure turns that end of the tractor loose.

I haul my Buggies long distance using one strap on each end. I have experienced an inch or so of lateral movement.

Edit: Forgot to say, in Missouri, you must also bind down any attachment, i.e., FEL bucket, rear mower, etc.