How far is too far??

[Gizmo2]

I would not go the 10/3 route on a bet.
I would have the light company run a separate feed. Most likely at a minimum from the light company would have to be 100 amp.

 

[Gizmo2]

Are you confused yet?
I would bury the cable in 2" PVC conduit with 90 degree radius bends on each end to bring the cable up out of the ground. An LB bend (it's a sharp 90 bend with an access plate) is used to then turn the cable and go through the wall of the house and another into the barn.

Use PVC cement (works like ABS cement) for all joins and you shouldn't have a problem with water infiltration. 2" PVC is costing me $2.33 a foot, the bends are around $12 each. That would total about $665.00 in conduit but will last forever, especially if you bury it in sand or at least ensure there are no rocks likely to come in contact with it.
Jon

Doesn't glued PVC have a tendency of breaking, up where you are with the frost and all? I normally run the heavy wall black plastic water pipe.

 

[jenkinsph]

The cost of a circuit this long is going to be high, you may want to reconsider having the power company feed the new barn. If your line fails for any reason it will be your nickel. For those suggesting a #10 wire this is good for 5 amps. You will need a #2 or #1 at the least, price the job with your electrician friend and allow some room for add on power uses. You will find that you can compare this to the cost of a separate drop to the barn with panel. Find out the minimum cost for the monthly service and do the math.

The first post with a refrigerator and heater suggests to me that you may be spending some time there. Power usage always seems to increase over time so I suggest a separate drop and 100 amp panel.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The high monthly cost to go with the second base is really limiting that option on our region but I can remember when usage cost was less than ONE cent per KW.

 

[RxRatedZ71]

One electrician said to use 3 runs of #4 copper wire in 2 in PVC conduit. But with the price of copper being as high as gas, the 2nd estimate recommended that I use (forgive my terminology) 1/O ACSR. It is aluminum wire which has the 3 conductors already wrapped together.

My wife worked as an electrical engineering technician for the local power company when we first met, so she keeps me in line with all the terminology and wire capacities.

 

[Gizmo2]

The high monthly cost to go with the second base is really limiting that option on our region but I can remember when usage cost was less than ONE cent per KW.

We have a separate feed to our barn and the base cost, without any usage, is just about the same as the cost of what we do use. Got to love it. We have a our own street light at the barn that stays on all night. To cut cost we have the barn on the night rate plan. You have to be careful here also as the day rate goes up somewhat when you are on the night rate.

 

[Gizmo2]

One electrician said to use 3 runs of #4 copper wire in 2 in PVC conduit. But with the price of copper being as high as gas, the 2nd estimate recommended that I use (forgive my terminology) 1/O ACSR. It is aluminum wire which has the 3 conductors already wrapped together.

My wife worked as an electrical engineering technician for the local power company when we first met, so she keeps me in line with all the terminology and wire capacities.

I would assume using 3 wire would require 2 ground rods at the new location.
Using aluminum will require larger wire and make sure your breakers can handle aluminum wire.

 

[crbr]

RxRatedZ71,
I used the Wire Size Calculator that Tom gave the link to.

Load Calculation
Overhead lights 15 A
Refrigerator circuit 15 A
Space heater circuit 15 A
Circuit for other outlet 15 A.
Total: 60 A at 120V

Solution
You could run a 240 V line (3 conductors plus ground) to your barn from a 30 A 240V breaker in your house panel. The 240V line will actually provide you two 120V lines at 30 A each for a total of 60 A at 120V which is what you need. Put the refrigerator circuit and space heater circuits on opposite 120V legs of the 240V wire to balance your load and to minimize voltage drop. Using the online wire calculator:
120V, 30A, copper, single phase, 265'

Wire Size
You need a #2 size copper line between the house and your barn and you will be fine. If you go with a smaller wire, you will have voltage drop problems at the barn which will cause problems and could damage your equipment (especially the compressor used by the refrigerator). This design does not require an extra meter as you requested. However, doing it this way will have an up-front cost of paying for the large #2 wire.

If you were willing to pay for the extra power company meter at the barn, then you could run a much smaller wire (less cost) to the barn because you would be running a high voltage line which would be stepped down to 240V/120V using a transformer close to the barn.

Note: I have an electrical engineering degree but am not a licensed electrician so get a professional opinion before proceeding.

Good luck with your project,
Obed

Sounds like Y-12 engineering to me..

Good info... Thanks.... K-25

 

[hr3]

Rx.. You say a " Licenced Electrician" told you to use ACSR cable.. I hope you know that this is Used as overhead transmission cable not as a underground cable :confused2: And another one said to use #4 copper in 2" conduit.. hmmm what was he going to do with the remainder of space in the conduit... Also he said what??? run 3 runs.. not 4 ???? Per. NEC. 4 wire is the rule and please don't listen to the one that said drive 2 ground rods at the barn...

If people don't know the codes or listen to what you are saying about what you are going to be running in your new barn .. Then I don't think they should offer their help.. It would be like me telling Kennyd how to do Hydraulics.. I don't have a clue and just read the posts and try to learn,,

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Rx. I have about the same uses as you are going to use in your new barn as I do now, and the same distances you are dealing with.. This is what I did and it works fine. Starting at my MDP "main panel" Feed breaker size 70amp. #2 alum. SER.. wire from the breaker to a pvc junction box in the basement where the wire is to go outside. Pipe out the back of the box to an 1-1/2 pvc lb on the outside of the building.. 1 1/2 pvc conduit.. "electrical conduit" to the barn and up into your main breaker in your new barn panel use #2 urd 4 wire in the conduit.

I also ran a black and white #10 copper to the barn for my block heater.. That way a half hour before I go out to plow snow I can turn it and an outside light on before I go out.

hr3 after some reviewing of Cu vs. Al prices the route you took would be my preferred solution in this case. The #10 copper solution for a light and block heater was awesome too.

Looked like 4/4 copper wire only today would run up to $2000. From what I here this would still be better than adding a meter base over time as long as one NEVER plans like heavy arc welding, etc. There are not good cheap options. No power would really limit the use of the nice new building.