How much tire chain

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I know what is meant by front clearance now as I checked it out after the post. It is marginal. Reversing the wheels does not work on my rig as the inside of the wheel rubs the front gear yoke housing. I go through 2-3" of top soil and hit rock not counting the ones sticking up all over the place and one of the old farmers up here told me he snaps off vbars all the time when its cold. He has a much bigger tractor (Allis- Chalmers 45) so that can have much to do with it. Plus he could be talking of what happened 40 or 50 years ago as he usually does. (its a gas when her goes back in time to be around him) Its gonna come down to a matter of clearance.

 

[Northland]

Plus he could be talking of what happened 40 or 50 years ago as he usually does. (its a gas when her goes back in time to be around him).

Ha-ha There is some of that here at TBN too.

Mostly though I find so many guys are experts reagrdless of the individual TBN member's application, geography, equipment etc.,-there way is the best/only way!

 

[SuperDave]

I have a B7800 which is similar in size to the 780. I just put on 2 link v-bar chains on the front, and 4 link v-bar on the rear. The tractor will go virtually anywhere. The front chains I thought would be a waste of money, but they keep the front from sliding side to side. I got the chains from tirechains.com and they are more than heavy enough. There are probably cheaper ones out there, but you get what you pay for. I can't believe I went 2 winters without them.

 

[Deerlope]

I use these Valby ice chain, they also work very well in deep snow

 

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Don't feel too badly SD. I went 22 winters without them.

No doubt those Valby's are one of the finest chains out there. Last I checked they were $700 and I would have to cut them to size. If my life depended on them as a result of a precarious terrain I would have to negotiate, they are worth every penny. If money were a small object for me I would also buy them but then I probably wouldn't be driving a 22 year old tractor one size smaller than I really need. As this is not my situation, I need to look at something cheaper while giving me the traction I need for how I work my tractor. Thanks for your input. It is much appreciated.

 

[Deerlope]

You get yourself a set of old truck chains and do some work on them. Like adding a few more crosslinks and you will be surprised at they will take you. My first set of chains on my old JD 2cyl were a set of Bear Paws off a "BIG" log skidder. I put 16 hours of work into them and worked out well for me. My next JD was a 2010 gas and I also used them on it. I ended up selling them to a guy that I met online who was from Canada.

 

[rigby338]

My tractor came with this set of ice chains on it. I have 40+ acres of rocky, hilly, muddy terrain. I don't have to run on the road or lawn so I left them on even over the summer. I feel they have made it possible for me to get by with the turf tires in the woods, mud and snow/ice conditions.

I also had what they call double ring chains on my previouse tractor, a 1949 JD M. They worked very well in mud because they cleaned themselves off, good in snow and alright on ice.

I would like to try v-bars on the front for better steering control but it appears I would have clearance issues also. For now I have been using the steering brakes alot as we have had alot of ice recently.

Rigby

 

[arrow]

Those are definitely the ones to have especially on R1's. I ended up with large ladders for the back and smaller gauge 2 link ladders for the fronts. Both are twisted links design.I can skid logs through the snow easier now but as the links are mostly below the cleats on the tires, I don't know how ice traction is. I would say maybe a little better as some links are above the cleats in the fronts, but no where near the tractive qualities of the ice chains. I did both the fronts and backs for $200. The fronts were much more of a pain to fit and lay properly. In my mind, the best way to have done this with money not being a concern was to buy the best studded chains possible for the rears and leave the fronts alone if one is running R1's. Perhaps my next set of tires should be L1's as they seem to have cleat placement more difficult for the chain to go between.

 

[atgreene]

I run chains on all 4 wheels on my 50 hp kubota. I WOULD NOT REVERSE the front wheels if you have a FEL. The wheels will put too much pressure on the studs and hub and will break either the wheel or the hub. Seen it a lot.

If you are strictly off road and need good chains, spend the money once, you'll never wear out a good set. If you just want a pair to get by, anything will work.

I run a straight ladder set on front and a set of tru-grips on the rear.

Here's a couple links:

Tractor Tire Chains
Traction Chain - Labonville Inc.

And here's a set that work well for lower clearance. Aquiline Tire Chains - Compact Utility Tractor Tire Chains

I think Labonville has them as well.

Labonville is in Maine and NH, so if your in this area you can pick them up minus shipping/freight.

Keep them failry tight and if you plan to build your own, buy a set of tire chain pliers. You'll be much happier.

 

[atgreene]

Finally founf the link I wanted. Here's the pliers. Don't even think of modifying a set of chains without them. They're worth every penny. I buy used chains at auction by the pallet load and make my own when needed and these make it a lot easier.

tirechains

And more chains tractor tire chains for farm tractors