How to adjust draft control to minimum sensitivity on Massey Ferguson 4225 tractor for attachable backhoe?

[Randalthor]

The draft lever needs to be in the down position for minimum sensitivity. I use this feature all the time using a grader box. I just don’t understand why this is so hard for everyone to figure this out.

Thank you!

 

[TractorTech]

Also, besides the draft handle all the way down

The draft lever needs to be in the down position for minimum sensitivity. I use this feature all the time using a grader box. I just don’t understand why this is so hard for everyone to figure this out.

AND the top link should be in the lowest, least sensitive position hole on the 3pt top link attach point

 

[Randalthor]

Also, besides the draft handle all the way down

AND the top link should be in the lowest, least sensitive position hole on the 3pt top link attach point

Actually, the backhoe manual suggests using the top link hole which is closest to the draft control spring (which would be the most sensitive position). I wondered about this part of recommendation for a while. Why would they want the top link in closest to the draft spring, which would cause the backhoe to bounce more (as it forces the draft control spring back and forth).

Finally, after doing quite a bit of online reading, I discovered that a potential weak part of the whole setup is the top link bracket on the tractor. If you read online, sometimes the top link bracket on the tractor fails under the stress of the backhoe. I think they want the hole closest to the draft spring used because in many cases this is the most robust place on the tractor top link. Perhaps more importantly, the draft spring acts like a "shock absorber" for the backhoe to prevent breaking tractor castings which fasten to the other end of the tractor top link bracket.

I looked pretty hard at my tractor and agreed with the manual that the holes closest to the draft spring in the top link bracket is the best place to use. Even if that part breaks, it's easily replaceable, whereas if a casting on the tractor rear differential breaks, that would be very bad.

 

[Randalthor]

The draft lever needs to be in the down position for minimum sensitivity. I use this feature all the time using a grader box. I just don’t understand why this is so hard for everyone to figure this out.

Just wanted to follow up for anyone else who stumbles across this thread with the same question. I was able to verify on my tractor, and you are absolutely correct. I put a very heavy implement on the 3 point and was able to actuate the draft control spring. With the draft control lever up, it was the most sensitive. Moving the draft control lever down reduced sensitivity. Further down = less sensitivity. When the draft control lever was all the way down (and the position control lever all the way up) the three point arms would not move up, even when the draft spring was actuated.

My guess is virtually all tractors operate the same way, unless it's some really odd duck of a tractor.

I think backhoe manufacturers, want no chance for the tractor to raise the three point and cause potential damage, like this:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/3-point-hitch-backhoe-top-link-buckled-a-cautionary-tale.371734/

So backhoe manufacturers want the position control all the way down, and the draft control all the way down.

Thanks again for answering my question.

 

[TractorTech]

Interesting something you said, that when the draft control was down and position control was up, the 3PT didn't move. I hope not. I remembered that 3PT backhoes have the brace from the lower links to the top link. DO NOT leave the position control up as the 3PT will be fighting the brace of the backhoe link and cause the pump to bypass.

Likewise, it would not hurt to have the top link in the lower hole as there is still some shock action from the draft spring.

 

[Randalthor]

DO NOT leave the position control up as the 3PT will be fighting the brace of the backhoe link and cause the pump to bypass.

Yes. The backhoe manufacturers want both the position control and the draft control all the way down so there is NO chance the tractor will try to lift the backhoe on the 3 point.

 

[Randalthor]

Likewise, it would not hurt to have the top link in the lower hole as there is still some shock action from the draft spring.

I really wrestled with which holes in the tractor top link bracket to use for the for the backhoe attachment. The manual clearly states to use the pair of holes closest to the draft spring, which in the case of Massey tractors, would be the top pair of holes in the bracket.

However, using the top holes will give more spring action, thus more movement, which is undesirable from an operator point of view. But I think the backhoe manufacturer surmised that the pair of holes closest to the draft spring is the most rugged place in the top link bracket to pin the backhoe vs. the castings which hold the lower portion of the tractor top link bracket. The castings on a Massey tractor don't look that rugged to me.

I don't know if you can tell from this picture, but the lower portion of the top link bracket has two castings inside the ears of the lower portion of the top link bracket. Those two castings hold the lower portion of the top link bracket on the tractor. They don't look super strong to me. I think your tractor you pictured earlier is a bit different?

I've chosen the top pair of holes because if the guts inside the draft spring break, it's the easiest to replace, vs the casting on the tractor which holds the lower portion of the top link bracket on the tractor.

I'm still not 100% sure I like pinning the backhoe to the very top pair of holes, but it does make some sense.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

As the question states I'd like to know how to position the draft control lever (up or down) for minimum sensitivity. I have an attachable 3 point backhoe which the manuals state the draft control lever should be set to minimum sensitivity (i.e. heavy). The owners manual for the tractor doesn't use those terms. It just explains how to plow using the draft control (i.e. set the position control lever all the way up, enter the work and set the draft control to the desired depth).

I know that the draft control takes into account how much pull the plow is pulling and adjusts the lifting arms accordingly. I also know that to transport a plow, the draft lever is moved all the way up and the position control lever is also all the way up. All that makes sense. I just don't know what is considered (minimum or maximum sensitivity for the draft control lever). I've searched the internet and found conflicting answers.

With a three point backhoe, which has diagonal brackes (like most do) you don't want the lifting arms of the tractor to try to lift up the backhoe, once it's attached. It would bind the backhoe three point linkage, and either break something (very bad) or the hydraulic bypass valve would be engaged (better but still like to avoid). It seems to me you'd want the position control lever in the down position, and the draft control lever also in the down position, so there would be no possibility for the lifting arms to raise.

In other words, if one set the position control lever to the down position and the draft control lever to the down position, there would be no way the lifting arms would lift up, in case one accidentally moved the position control lever up (out of habit) to transport the backhoe. In that case the draft control would still be down, and even though the position control lever was moved up, the lifting arms still wouldn't lift up? Wouldn't that be the safest way to do it?

Your thoughts please.

We tie handles down when using our backhoe attachment. Been doing it since 1995. Yes, tie, so nobody accidentally tries to lift it.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Also, besides the draft handle all the way down

AND the top link should be in the lowest, least sensitive position hole on the 3pt top link attach point

I saw a backnoe attachment snap all that draft contraption off the back of a tractor. One of the quick attach lift arms came unaloosened and broke a chunk out of rear end housing on tractor. Took many tries of welding to finally stay. Snapped lower section of the rooster cone out. Sad, our favo rite tractor only had a two point hitch for a while there. We'd fix and it would hold a while. Finally stayed by using a steel collar for pin and welding that to the housing. I tied the rear of tractor off, got front wheels up, bounced loader up and down. It held, so I called it good.

 

[Randalthor]

Finally stayed by using a steel collar for pin and welding that to the housing.

Could you explain that further? I'd be really interested in how you fixed that. I can't picture anything in my head from the description.

Snapped lower section of the rooster cone out.

What is the rooster cone on a tractor? Thanks.