How To Buy A DOZER

   / How To Buy A DOZER #21  
I had a little experience running a JD 450G, but not allot before buying mine. The 450 was good for house pads and hauling around, but on my land, it was almost useless. I could take out saplings and clear trails and level out roads or pastures, but that's about it. It couldn't dig in my clay at all unless the clay was already broke up. Even with rippers, it was a challange. Trees of any size would stop it cold and it was worthless for digging, so the tree's won those battles.

The guy who owned it said it was for residential work mostly. If I wanted to take out the trees, use the backhoe. One thing that he did say was really good about the 450 was that he could get it unstuck with a backhoe, which he did when I got it stuck. Just put a chain on the blade and pulled with the hoe.

One of the faults wiht that model is the drive sprocket is one piece. This means you have to remove the track to replace the sprocket. Most sprockets come off in pieces so you can replace them with the tracks still on.

Changing a sprocket that comes off in pieces is very easy and to expensive. That's the easiest thing to do!!!

What you REALLY need to look at is your bushings. If they need turning, expect to pay $5,000. It's not something you can do yourself. The tracks need to come off and put in a press. Each bushing is done one at a time. If they have already been turned once and are worn on both sides, than you need to replace them. Who knows what that will cost???

Don't trust anybody who says the undercairage is a certain percentage. Look for yourself with somebody you trust. Not all, but allot of heavy equimpment sales people will know a rookie right off and take advantage. Imagine your grandma going to the dealership to buy a used car with a ton of cash in her purse. That's the same scenerio for you when looking at dozers.

The 4 in 1 bucket is an amazing thing for cleanup and moving material. I wish I had one on my loader bucket. It's not the same as a blade though. Two totally different animals. Just because they both have tracks, don't confuse a track loader with a bull dozer.

I've heard the track loader is really good at popping out stumps, but I don't know that for a fact. It might be better at pushing over trees if we compare the same sized machines. 20,000 pound track loader and a 20,000 dozer. The higher reach is a huge advantage.

You really need to decide on which is better for you.

When I decided to buy a dozer, I wanted something allot bigger than the little John Deere I'd been running. Over a hundred horse with low hours and for $20,000. There is allot of junk out there in that price range. For less money, your talking about a small dozer. In my opinion, too small for serious tree removal, clean up and digging.

Stay with name brands and dealers in your area. If you see a good deal on a Case, but there's no Case dealers close by, I'd pass on it. It doesn't matter what brand you buy, if you can't get parts for it, than it's just a lawn ornament.

Be sure you can work on it yourself. I'm learning as I go. I have no experience working on these things and never wanted to. The first problem I had with min is the bolts snapped on one of my tracks and the track came off. I tried to get five different guys to come repair it for me, and none ever showed up. I ended up waisting several weeks before figureing it out and doing it myself. Total cost was $200 once I got the track to a place that specializes in tracks 50 miles away.

I had a hydraulic pump fail on my too. Cost to have Case replace it (they wont rebuild anything) is $20,000. I took it out myself and had the pump and drive motor rebuilt for $3,000.

My turbo went out. $500 to rebuild plus my labor.

I've had dozens of hoses bust. Either from age or trees. Trees are very, very dangerous to a dozer. They will find a way to break something.

Alternator, batteries, filters, leaks and heavy fuel usage all add up to why I call my dozer a money pit. IT IS!!!

But when I do the math, it's still way cheaper to have it and do the repairs myself than to hire it done. Takes longer and there's a physical pain factor that doesn't exist when you hire it out, but there's no arguing the finacial savings.

I paid $25,000 for my Case 1550. It's weights over 40,000 poouns and is 160hp. It has an 8 way blade that's 12 feet wide. It's probably bigger than what you're looking for, and it's still too small for taking out medium sized trees. For what it takes to remove an 18 inch pine or oak, I can do it much faster with my backhoe.

Keep looking around. When you see something you like, post the information on it and hopefully somebody can give you some specific information.

Eddie
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Ok, it looks like I am getting a good education on what a dozer will do, especially the size I was looking at. It's great to get opinions from people who actually own dozers.

Maybe I need to look at the big utility with backhoe or a dedicated TLB. I will get the quote to hire this done in the next 2-3 weeks. Possibly just have the house site cleared and road cleared. Then take out what I need later with TLB.
I will continue to look and see whats out there and post when I find something. I try to get some pictures this weekend to show what I am up against but basically it looks like I am looking way to small on the dozer and may be better off hiring this done. I guess I'll know when I get the quote...and decide exactly where we want the house.

So it may make better sense money wise to hire the basic grading for the house; backhoe, grapple or 4n1 for clearing of the small stuff later.

If I am going to spend 25-35k I may be better off just buying the TLB or big utility with 4 in 1 and backhoe. which was the 1st plan.
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #23  
Your trees are too large.. My JD is 10K lbs and would bounce off a 15-18" tree.

It would be excellent for clearing the underbrush with less drama than a bush hog. The dozer blade would also be faster than a TLB for spreading gravel although a good dump truck driver can spread gravel even faster for making your road.

I wouldn't dig stumps with a dozer it makes a huge crater & takes forever. Backhoe is a much better tool.

One option is talking to a local Forester about selective logging if you have marketable trees. Harvesters, Forwarders and Processors can open up your space fast but generally leave stumps and slash behind.
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #24  
One of the big problems with hiring the work done is getting it done the way that you want it done. It has been my experience that it seldom gets completed how you think it should be. The few people that I know that have had grading & clearing done were not happy campers. And I mean not one of them. One guy had to hire another contractor to come in and try to resolve his problems. He had some luck, but still wasn't happy. This guy easily could have bought the equipment needed to grade his place. You know what they say, " If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself "
If you don't know how to do it, then learn how. Of course we all have to make compromises. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Brian
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Brian,
That is one of the big reasons I want to buy and do it myself. I can be selective in what I take out and there are several different areas I would like to clear but leave as natural as possible. I will continue to look for a good buy. But it seems if you don't buy something fairly new you may end up with a lot of cost fixing things.

I will most likely hire the minimum needed to get started on the house. Then continue to look for a dozer while clearing what I can with the FEL on the tractor.
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #26  
hunterridgefarm, something that seems to work for me in my area is the following.

1st look for tractors that a person in business would purchase.

2nd, look at machines that are cheep, basically warn out.

3rd, find machines that are closer in price to the ones that a guy would buy to use in a business.( a couple K less )

These machines seem to not sell very quick. They are too costly for the weekend rancher, and the business guy figures that they are warn out. Tractor sets in limbo because it is in the wrong price range. Sometimes the price paid for these is closer to the warn out stuff than the business tractors. I got my Case 580 Super E backhoe that way and missed out on a Cat D3. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif (no money at the time) My 580 seems like a new piece of equipment compared to the 580CK that I had. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Anyway, that is my experience. As far as money pits, I think that it depends on the tractor (obviously) and how much work that you are going to do with it. Eddie said that his dozer is a money pit. I disagree, look at all the work that he has done with his machine. All machines require maintenance, heavy ground engaging equipment requires a lot of maintenance. that's a simple fact.

The only way that I know of to get around not having to pay for breakdowns is to buy new. And then you have paid for them in advance if they happen or not. 500-600K? or more /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif or 20-30K plus repairs, I'll take my chances simply because I can't afford to do it any other way /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Good luck
Brian
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #27  
My 2 cents, I think MtnView Ranch has a point when he brings up the subject of if you dont do the grading yourself you wont be happy with the result.
I'm an old time house builder.
Done lots and lots of running grading projects as the general contractor.
I want to kindly submit to this conversation that grading is something which requires knowledge and experience.
If you do not have that needed experience (maybe you do so if thats the case this is mute) then as was stated by MVRanch, learn about what you are going to be doing, then, thru trial and error with your own machine or machines you can work out the work needed.
I too have seen what MVRanch has seen, people spending alot of cash toward excavation and being hung out to dry because they did not know what to ask the grading subcontractor to do.
Hope this helps.
By the way, I recognize the Mountain View Ranch name, are you the MVR on Bobs Gap Rd, Brian??
I think you must be, I live up on Panorama Rd, bought the old Naffziger place a few years ago. I've seen your bulldozer from the road. That is one serious dozer.
Max
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #28  
Max, sorry, wrong MtnViewRanch, I'm down in San Diego County.
Brian
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #29  
Over the years I have had good results with contractors and quality work.

What I found was that they had to know what you want to end up and listen to some of their suggestions to get an acceptable product.If you tell them exactlly what to do and how to do it that may be just what you get.

Always make use of the contractors knowledge.

Egon
 
   / How To Buy A DOZER #30  
Just another thought here. Have you considered bringing in a forester and doing a controlled burn? From what I hear you say you are not ready or even sure where you want to build and the property is overgrown with a lot of small shrubs. A controlled burn is healthy for the forest and will remove much of the underburden although it sometimes requires a burn for two consecutive years to kill the shrubs in the 6’ tall range. It will not hurt the more mature trees, actually helps them, and has less impact on the forest floor than a dozer will. With the scrub stuff burned off you would be in a better position to see the lay of the land and clearing time would be much less.

By the way, we are getting close to the end of burning season here in the South so this would be a good time to have a forester take a look and see if it would be practical. You would still need to bring in a dozer to cut perimeter fire breaks and that would give you a perimeter road for future work.

MarkV
 
 
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