How to connect 8 gauge wires ?

[DocHeb]

I think either would be OK. The tape can give a thicker layer of insulation, but shrink wrap sure would look nice.

 

[Spiffy]

Makes sense to me. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I think in high humidity or underground apps, the heat shrink might have an advantage, but that proabably doesn't apply here. It does look nice.

 

[Mrwurm]

The strands that feed from the breaker panel are aluminum. The strands from the stove are copper. Does this mean I need some sort of anti-corrosive goop ? I have dielectric lube. Is that good ?

 

[Spiffy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The strands that feed from the breaker panel are aluminum. The strands from the stove are copper. Does this mean I need some sort of anti-corrosive goop ? I have dielectric lube. Is that good ? )</font>

Oh, it is Al to Cu. I've heard "dielectric goop" used to mean insulating dip, but you may be talking about the right stuff. It should specify the application clearly on the tube. Something like "....conductive anti-corrosive for Al (maybe "Al or Cu" ) ....wires" etc. I haven't had any wiring projects crop up in a while, so I don't quite remember the wording.

 

[Jimbrown]

I don't know the answer to that but the directions for my subermisble well pumps say if you use heat shrink you must still put the self vulcanizing tape over the heat shrink. My experience with the self vulcanizing is that if it is applied per the instructions it is near impervious to water.

 

[_RaT_]

If it is aluminum and #8 wire, ensure the breaker is a 30 amp and no larger. In applications where you must attach Cu to Au, I use either split or even better, the tube type with set screws that uniformly crush the wires into the conducting tube. The drawback is you need room in the box to fold them back. Also, be careful of how you strip aluminum wire, if you score the wire with a knife, you risk breaking off that strand.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, I went shopping and found some anti-corrosive grease for AL to CU connections. Also, I bought some split bolts that are rated for AL to CU connection. The standard split bolts were brass, these are made of something else. Looks and feels kinda like aluminum, but has a chalky finish.

Also, per one of the questions . . . I'm not sure if Its #8 aluminum. I just know that its thicker than the #10 copper I ran in my barn and its also thicker than the copper strands coming out of the back of the stove.

 

[_RaT_]

#6 will be about the diameter of a pencil not including the insulation. Remember, with aluminum you need to go up one wire size or larger diameter(in the typical home sizes) to acheive the same current carrying ability as copper. The problem with Al is that it immediately oxides to form Al oxide which is a very poor conductor. Thus by applying the inhibitor you eliminate the oxygen from getting to the wire. On old exposed wires, brush them to remove the oxide.

 

[Henro]

Jerry,

Just me, but what I would do is install a receptical that has the rating needed for the stove, and put a plug on the end of the wires coming from the stove.

This is what I did for my welder...50 amp 220 volt outlets in several places, and one plug on the welder cord...

You would still have to use that paste at the point where the aluminum wire attaches to the copper receptical...

Just an alternative thought. Recepticals and plugs are not very expensive, but probably do cost a couple bucks more than split bolts...

 

[Mrwurm]

Bill, the added benefit to your plan is that the stove can be removed for service without having to open the box and dismantle the connectors.