Ortho puts out a product called "Nutsedge Killer" that I just found and applied to the nutgrass in my lawn. It's apparently working as it has yellowed it badly. It took about a week to show outward signs of dying. The only way I found it available was in a ready to spray concentrate that you hook up to your garden hose. The grass around the nutsedge is just fine.
As far as the crabgrass goes, wait until Spring and apply a good pre-emergent crabgrass preventer. I overseeded a 2 acre lawn (field) early this Spring, and because I have been killing the broadleaf weeds after the grass was up, the crabgrass has taken over the many thin spots. I'm hoping that the bluegrass, fescue, perennial rye grass seed that came up wery well will not be smothered out by the crabgrass this Summer. I did try a liquid crabgrass killer in my tow behind sprayer when I first saw the crabgrass coming up at the 2-3 leaf stage. It apparently had little to no effect. I'll put down a pre-emergent containing "Dimension" next Spring. I'll fertilize late this Fall, and if I can get the new grass to grow thick enough this Fall and control the crabgrass next year, crabgrass should be much less of a problem in the future.
Crabgrass dies each year after a hard frost and comes back fresh from seed after it warms up in the Spring. The pre-emergent crabgrass controls are pretty effective and "Dimension" is supposed to prevent germination of many broadleaf seeds too. Lawns can be a pain, but lawn grass is much more pleasant to mow than a dusty and weedy or sopping wet crabgrass infested lawn. On that last statement I mean that the lawn itself is dry, but the crabgrass is so thick and full of moisture this year that as it is cut it wets the tires and everything it touches. Messy!