How to install deer fencing in granite boulders?

[Mesa2011]

Yeah, I thought about rock climbing techniques; they put hooks into rocks all the time. Will consider the bolting a post into rock.

Visit a nearby rock climbing shop and explain what you want to do. Perhaps someone there could point you in the right direction. They could put you in touch with someone who owns a Bosch drill. If you did not mind the labor a simple star drill would do. I would consider drilling few holes (two) in the rock and bolting a multi-holed post at each location; a labor saver. For fencing duty, simple expansion bolts would work fine. No need to epoxy.

 

[Mesa2011]

Thank you for the correction. Helpful!

Correction - Kencove (not Kensington), Max-Ten 210 KSI 12 1/2 Guage, min break strength = 1617 lbs, 4'000 ft coil, 105 lbs, $99.75.

 

[PILOON]

I have a Hilte rotary impact drill and a selection of 22" bits.
A 3/4" hole takes about 4-5 mins to drill about 10-12" deep and 3/4" rebar pounded in is permanent.
A larger hole accepts standard T bars.
You can rent Hilte's as well as a suitable generator so the task is not impossible.

One option could be short (like 2-3 ft) T bar or rebar 'pegs' with suitable piping for your posts.
On the other hand (slower) a 1 1/2 hole and pounded in T bar would be rather permanant.

Oh, my rock is granite which is probably the ultimate test. (my bits are not imports)

Paint your T bar posts black and the vista will not be spoiled.

 

[Egon]

I have a Hilte rotary impact drill and a selection of 22" bits.
A 3/4" hole takes about 4-5 mins to drill about 10-12" deep and 3/4" rebar pounded in is permanent.
A larger hole accepts standard T bars.
You can rent Hilte's as well as a suitable generator so the task is not impossible.

One option could be short (like 2-3 ft) T bar or rebar 'pegs' with suitable piping for your posts.
On the other hand (slower) a 1 1/2 hole and pounded in T bar would be rather permanant.

Oh, my rock is granite which is probably the ultimate test. (my bits are not imports)

Paint your T bar posts black and the vista will not be spoiled.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Probably quickest and easiest way.
A piece of pipe could also be welded to Tbar.

 

[jrclark]

Not to be humorous, but have you tried thinning the herd? You may find that one method will not work entirely, as much as several methods working together.

 

[dragoneggs]

This might be a wild idea and I don't know how hard your rock is but you might want to look into Hilti studs that are fired into the substrate. They are threaded studs that are installed as an explosive projectile. Can be used in steel and concrete. Proceed at your own risk. I would seek a professional.

 

[chim]

I've been reading this with some interest. Working as an ellectrician, I've encountered granite twice. I have come to the conclusion that (A) there must be different types of granite with very different hardness characteristics, or (B) much of the advice is being given by people without first-hand experience with granite.

The first was back in '69 while installing a fire alarm system in an old municipal building. We were using powder-actuated fasteners (like Hilti but more powerful). There was a slab of granite built into a brick column at the elevation where a horn was to be mounted. The pins barely dented the stone and just bent.

The next time was 20 years later when we were re-feeding the buildings at a state hospital complex. A few of the buildings had exposed stone foundations. After spending a lot of time drilling with the wet diamond core machine, the rock was barely cut into. We did have some success with a jackhammer.

 

[Egon]

Yes, there are many different types of granite made up of a plethora of minerals. Some is easy to drill. Others are just plain hard to drill.

 

[sixdogs]

I didn't real all the replies here but will say how we fenced in granite ledge. I drilled a hole in the ledge with a rock bit and hammer drill. Then I drilled the same size hole in the end of a PT 4 x 4. Pounded a piece of rebar into the rock and, pounded the post down over the rebar and usually braced the posts in two directions. They stood up fine and solved my fencing problem.

 

[Redneck in training]

It all depends ho pretty and/or permanent you want the fence. There is not a pretty, permanent and cheap solution to the problem. We were at war with deer for several years. Initially I run a single strand of poly electric fence line on fiberglass posts zig-zag from tree to tree. It worked fine but was ripped out by deer quite often when one got zapped and run away taking the line with it. It was ugly and very hard to cut grass in the area. Second iteration was installation of 10ft T posts around the area and electrify it initially by four strands of poly line. It worked for a while but then the the deer learned to sneak between the lines. So we added two more lines. It required constant maintenance. Third iteration was installation of about half mile of 4ft chain link fence with proper corner posts and two electric poly lines on the top. The poly line will be replaced by fencing wire when it gets warmer at spring to make the fence more or less permanent. My wife takes dogs for walk making three rounds around the fence line for exercise. It is possible that the dog scent helps to deter the deer. We had no deer intrusion past two years.

If beauty is not the issue I would use buckets or large plastic pots fill them with concrete with embedded fiberglass post. Then set them just anywhere they need to be, anchor the corners and electrify them with poly line. 7/8" Fiberglass Rod Posts - Gallagher Permanent electric fencing components