How to push over and dig up trees with a grapple

[CrestonNC]

I have a quite a bit of tree's to clear. I have a grapple to help. I was looking for videos showing good technique. Most my land is hilly. I also have lots of dead leaning trees.

Thanks.

 

[Marveltone]

Dead or alive, I'd still use a chainsaw. You can then use the grapple to move the wood off site. Maybe leave about three feet of stumpage so you have something to work with, be it wrapping a chain to pull them out, bull-dozing, or digging with the FEL.

Digging them up can take a lot of work, depending on the size of the root system. Sorry, no advice for that. I'd cut mine as close to the ground as I can, drill about three or four 1" holes as deep as I can and use a chemical product called, "Stump Remover" that breaks down the wood fiber of stumps, leaving them porous. The porous wood then absorbs kerosene readily. After the porous wood is soaked with kerosene and ignited, it will burn away. The flame is a low, smoldering flame. If the use of kerosene and flame is acceptable to you, this is a cheap and easy option for tree stump removal.

Joe

 

[wedge40]

On level ground and smaller trees it's trial and error. On some trees I rip the roots to each side of the tree and then try and get the ones in front using the grapple. On small trees, I just push them over with the tractor then use the grapple to grab the exposed root ball to rip the rest out of the ground. All of this is dependent on the size of your tractor and grapple.


BUT.. Looking at your ground.
I'm not sure I'd want to remove too many trees and roots for fear of erosion. For the dead trees I'd cut them down and haul them away, but I wouldn't get rid of any thing that's helping to hold the soil in place.

Wedge

 

[MikeInEburg]

I agree with others - dead trees can be wicked, so you should use the safest method possible. For me this means a rope tied off to another tree and a chain saw.

Live trees are much easier. If the root ball must be removed, I get a sturdy rope as high as possible, then dig out the roots with backhoe on sides and back. Then use tractor to pull the tree over in what is generally a very gentle fall. I've had great success with this method.
Mike

 

[Richard]

Live trees are much easier. If the root ball must be removed, I get a sturdy rope as high as possible, then dig out the roots with backhoe on sides and back. Then use tractor to pull the tree over in what is generally a very gentle fall. I've had great success with this method.
Mike

Creston, go to post 13 in this thread
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/196257-how-big-might-hickory-tree.html

I just did Mike's way of doing it with some modification to my circumstance. I don't think this would work very well for your slopes though.

I'd probably start at bottom of hill and cut them down (hoping they go down slope) and work my way up the hill as I get what ever I need, done.

 

[Ken45101]

Dealing with dead trees can be very deadly TO YOU. As a tree starts to move, it can bring down dead branches on your head. Extreme caution should be used. After you see a dead branch come down and bury itself 6-10" in the ground, you begin to think what that would do to your body.

If you are using equipment, you should have FOPS, that's FALLING OBJECT protection system, basically a beefed up roof.

Whatever you do, weigh the risks vs. the value.

Beyond that, I'm not an expert but spring time with the soft ground is a good time to push stuff over. However, it's also a good time to lose traction and control.

Ken

 

[jinman]

I find using a grapple to push over trees about as easy as pickin' my nose with a chainsaw. You can do it, but there's gonna be collateral damage.:shocked: I think you will bend tines and likely not be able to do the job efficiently.

When I can't use a backhoe, I use my smallest bucket to dig around, through, and under the rootball. I even prefer my non-toothbar bucket for this. I also back up and pulled my 3PH subsoiler through the roots a few times to break them loose as close to the tree trunk as I can get. Luckily, most of my trees don't have big root balls or tap roots.

As many have mentioned, shoving or thrusting against the trunk of the tree will most likely bring down dead or brittle branches. If I can't ease into a tree and gently push it over, I just keep digging. I simply refuse to back off and take a run at the tree. My equipment and my life are worth more than that.

Here's a picture of an oak tree that was not healthy and beside my driveway. I used my 5' bucket to dig around the root ball and then just eased against the trunk and brought it down. After cutting off the limbs, I put on my rock bucket/grapple to move the tree to where I cut firewood. The PHD on the back is because my grandson and I were drilling some post holes after moving the tree.

 

[mkane09]

I'm clearing trees in a creek bottom right now. I've got a 560 pound WRLong grapple on the front of my MX4700. I just ease up to the tree, put the bottom of the grapple centered on the trunk about 7 feet off the ground and push forward slowly. I can take down trees about 8-10" in diameter, height doesn't matter. If it's dead, it's usually leaning, even a little bit. I just push it where it wants to fall. My creekbed is pretty soft, so the root wad comes out pretty easy, but I also have issues with traction (my rears are loaded). Usually, once the tree bends over a bit, I can get the weight of the front of the tractor on the trunk and this helps push it down. If I can't ease the tree down, it will wait for a trackhoe or big hi-lift. When I get the tree on the ground, I cut it into roughly 8 foot sections and take them out with the grapple. I've taken out a ton of trees so far with this method. Just remember the limitations of your equipment and get something bigger, heavier if you need it.

mkane09