Hi,im a newbie to the forum and having a hard time trying to make the brake rod seal stay inside the housing. I have disconected the brake pedal rod and tried everything i can to push it into the axle housing. I have destroyed six of them so far. People on other forums say, " and to put them back in, do in reverse as taking them out". No- one wants to say that they are an absolute bastard to get in. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Ive tried using the same size diam socket and atube to go over the rod and tapping with a hammer. And using spacers to wind the nut up. Used oil and grease, still no good.
How to put brake rod seals into the axle housing on Ford 4000
- Thread starter bazza69
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John0829
Veteran Member
Not really sure why you should be having issues with installing in the seal. It should be a simple interference fit. Using a socket or pipe as a driver is the same thing I would do to get even pressure installing the seal.
I would suggest, cleaning the surface really well making sure there is no oil or grease contamination then using a thin coat of #2 Permatex install the seal and let it cure for a few days.
I would suggest, cleaning the surface really well making sure there is no oil or grease contamination then using a thin coat of #2 Permatex install the seal and let it cure for a few days.
ROUSTABOUT
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We've got six tractors, since new, that use that type seal, oldest is a 1989. Replaced several, same instructions you have. Easy fix. Never messed up one. Probably didn't have any instructions, come to think of it.
You've got to push the middle back in there on that rod so it don't pull the seal out or tear it up when you use the brakes.
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Thanks john0829, There seems to of been what looks like a steel shim thats been fitted inside the hole of the housing at some stage, i removed it and the seal is still not going in, i just keep chasing it around. I get it to the point where its nearly gone in bar about 2mm at the bottom,tap the socket to favour the bottom and it pops out at the side then the top. Ive even got it to that stage and given it a good whack and it ends up bending
Thanks John0829, It looks like at some stage its had a steel shim placed in the hole of the housing, i removed it thinking itwould make it go in easier but its the same, i get it within say 2mm out at the bottom then tap the socket and it jumps out at the side or the top. Ive even got to that stage and given it a whack but it just bends it. Im wondering if when i order these seals im asking for the right ones. I tell them its for a Ford 4000 1966 Diesel tractor,i have uploaded a few pics. Is there a chance there is two different sizes depending on where the tractor was made. Thanks.
Do they have to be turned inside out ?
EdGooding
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Are you in the UK? Would you mind posting a photo of your 4000?
John0829
Veteran Member
Not turned inside out but the rubber pushed back making it sorta flattened/pancaked so it will act like an accordian.
I have encountered seals like this that seemed to refuse to go in no matter what I tried. Ruining more than a few along the way. One way I have had some success with these PIA seals is to get them close to being seated as you said you have with these, then instead of using the socket or pipe use a small/light hammer and wide flattened punch, very gently tapping directly on the area that has not seated. I use an old cold chisel ground flat on the end so that when the seal does seat the punch will also hit the housing preventing the seal from going in to far. Starting near to where it is fully seated slowly work around toward the area that is most proud. Sometimes if your lucky with gentle tapping you can walk the part of the seal that is still proud home.
I hope that description makes sense.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Have you ever replaced the brake boots on one of these tractors? Reading that list of directions leads me to believe you've never seen one.
John0829
Veteran Member
I have and admit it has been quite a while back.
In my narrative I was trying to make a point and did it very badly, that's on me. It was meant as a generalized statement on troublesome seals (not specific to the boots). I was attempting to make the point that after getting the seal mostly in place a gentler approach to finish the install might work better than using the pipe or socket approach that you cannot get a strike (at least I cannot) that applies even balanced pressure around the circumference of the seal.
In my narrative I was trying to make a point and did it very badly, that's on me. It was meant as a generalized statement on troublesome seals (not specific to the boots). I was attempting to make the point that after getting the seal mostly in place a gentler approach to finish the install might work better than using the pipe or socket approach that you cannot get a strike (at least I cannot) that applies even balanced pressure around the circumference of the seal.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I'm not sure how much of that would apply in this case, because I believe he's trying to do this without removing the footplate, If so, access is going to be quite limited and I'm not surprised he's having so much trouble. Having replaced a number of them without near this much problem, I can't remember doing it on a three cylinder with the footplate in place. Therefor I have made no comment.