How to remove mouse smell from cab of farm truck?

[farmgirl19]

I think bleach would be a "no-no", but vinegar (acetic acid) will help to counter the ammonia (a base). I used to add a spoonful of clear vinegar to the final rinse tank when shampooing carpets, when I still had carpet. Given the fact I have had puppies and older dogs, through the years, it did help freshen those carpets immensely.

Another thing that might be good, is to heat, (to boiling) a pan of vinegar, and thn place it, (On a trivet) in the vehicle, until it cools, and repeat, if needed. The vinegar fumes will permeate some areas that you might not be able to reach. I learned this trick from scorching some stuff (BIG Time) in a microwave once. :laughing: Heat the vinegar, and let it set and the steam of it, enter into the crevices.

 

[sixdogs]

Good Evenin Sixdogs.
Wow thats going to be an awesome project, really like the red also !

Keep us updated, and thanks for those pics, I would love a project like that !

Air brakes on that beast or juice ?

Regular hydraulic with a vacuum assist. No sure what to do just yet. Old (well, older) timers said the brake system was highly regarded so I might sort-of leave it alone. I am going to replace all the lines, hoses, wheel cylinders plus the vacuum unit even though it looks mostly OK. The master cylinder is an old single hole unit so that is going to be replaced by a dual unit at the very least.

On other hot rods I usually run a two master cylinders off of one pedal and send one line to the front brakes and the other to the back and use discs on all wheels. Not sure if that's practical in this application since the axles are so big so I might have to use the older style hydraulic master cylinder.

First thing is to take the section out of the frame. I really don't want to do it myself but I don't think anyone else does either. This will be a fairly easy project but since it's a one-off and involves things I have never done before, I don't have anyone to learn from that already made the mistakes.

 

[Don87]

A dual master cylinder is the safest way.......that way if the front blows..........you still have rear, and vice-versa. That's if you can get the 'right' proportioning valve to work for your application.

For suspension, have you given any thought to air bags? Since you are modifying the truck, it might be a good alternative and keep the truck level.

 

[DarrylH20]

Very nice truck you have.

 

[sixdogs]

A dual master cylinder is the safest way.......that way if the front blows..........you still have rear, and vice-versa. That's if you can get the 'right' proportioning valve to work for your application.

For suspension, have you given any thought to air bags? Since you are modifying the truck, it might be a good alternative and keep the truck level.

Air bags is a nice thought but would be difficult and very costly on the size of that truck's suspension. For the few hundred miles a year that I'll drive, what I have is good enough and remember, it only has 10,000 miles on it.

 

[94BULLITT]

Here is some info on how to clean up dead mice and the droppings.

http://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/pdf/HPS_Brochure.pdf

I had a customers car a while back that stunk. The back seat had to come out to do some work and some interior pieces. I found 5 dead mice in it.

My dad took a 4 barrel intake off a 300 years ago and put the stock intake on it. He said it ran just as good with the stock intake on it. I think Clifford perf. has some stuff for the 300.

Clifford Performance :: Make 6 = 8

That truck would be sweet with a Cummins swap.

 

[sixdogs]

94BULLITT

Excellent hantavirus info--thanks. Everyone should read it and the woman in the article should be wearing rubber gloves.
One part of this is we are surrounded by mice because they are everywhere in a rural environment. We just don't see them.

What size Cummins engine and what is it used in?

When your dad switched manifolds. do you recall how many years ago and any more info?
Apparently the problem with a straight six is the end cylinders starve for fuel unless the manifold is designed to compensate for that and sufficient fuel, but not too much enters the combustion chamber. The Clifford manifold is one of two I have been considering. Offy is the other.

The idea to switch engines was my first thought until I learned of the following for the 300 engine and the speed parts now available. Apparently it is legendary for it's torque and UPS still uses many of those engines. So do I swap out a perfectly good 10,000 mile engine that is a rodder's favorite or do I spend $5,000 to $10,000 on a drivetrain swap that I could get by without? That's why I'm thinking drive for a while I tweak the body panels, etc and then see how it goes and if I stumble into some other engine/trans/whatever?

 

[farmgirl19]

I say that the straight six will be hard to beat! :2cents:

 

[sixdogs]

I say that the straight six will be hard to beat! :2cents:

That's sort-of what I've been thinking. Out of the box it has more torque than a lot of other things and with a cam and improved breathing I think I can get by. The 300 engine has shown up in a lot of hot rods lately.

Found this on the net...

 

[farmgirl19]

Sweet!