nwltruck
Silver Member
curious about this myself. My dads and my yard are fairly rough. Frost heaves gofer mounds. More lumpy than ruts or bumps. Would this approach fix my problem. Large lawn roller has not worked.Core aerator and drag.
curious about this myself. My dads and my yard are fairly rough. Frost heaves gofer mounds. More lumpy than ruts or bumps. Would this approach fix my problem. Large lawn roller has not worked.Core aerator and drag.
Well, I'd need more information to make a good recommendation. Are the rough spots high ridges or ruts? It makes a difference because generally you need to remove high spots and fill depressions. If there are high spots, will cutting them down create an overall low spot in the yard that will collect water and be a Spring time mess? The first thing I thought of when reading your post was that possibly someone in the past took a tractor into that area while it was waterlogged and just left a rutted mess. I'd usually suggest tilling when dry enough in different directions and it will pretty much self level, but without a tractor your options are very limited. Depending on how large an area we're talking about, you can get a load of topsoil and fill in the rough areas by hand. If you do this, allow for some settling of the soil. A better option is to ask a neighbor with a tractor for his/her opinion and advice. They can look at it, evaluate it, figure out what equipment is needed to fix it, and probably be willing to help you out for minimal cost if they can. I'd do it for nothing if it wasn't of an unreasonable size just to be neighborly.
I believe so. I currently have a 3'/small 3PH mount core aerator on order. The ability to work well defined small elevated areas should be a key factor. :confused3:curious about this myself. My dads and my yard are fairly rough. Frost heaves gofer mounds. More lumpy than ruts or bumps. Would this approach fix my problem. Large lawn roller has not worked.
Just conjecture from observations using a chain drag -- you want a drag that bridges the low spots instead of conforming with the surface.I'll add another vote for core aeration and dragging. It does the turf a lot of good and evens out both ridges and ruts. Don't stop the aerator until it looks like you've gone way too far. Holes 2-3 inches apart is not too much. Don't pick up the plugs, just drag them with a weighted chain link fence section (I have a gate).
I dont think a spike aerator would work because it brings up little or no dirt to redistribute.Would a spike harrow do the same or would something with more ground contact be better? Does it have to be a plugger or spike aerator?